wolfe10

Perhaps I was not clear. You do not want to raise the rear WHEELS off the ground to level. Indeed, DO put boards, etc under the rear wheels if the back is low. If one side is low, put boards, etc under the wheels on that side. Be sure to support the complete footprint of any tire on boards, etc. Brett

Give Cummins a call in the morning with your engine serial number: Cummins 800 343-7357 But, the exhaust system was fit by your chassis maker. Give them a call with your chassis serial number. Brett

It would REALLY surprise me if a Jeep Cherokee was under 2000 pounds. Not suggesting that you don't want to tow it, but it does weigh well more than 2000. Brett

Actually, the LESSER of the following determines towing capacity: GCWR (Gross Combined Weight Rating) MINUS actual loaded weight of coach. Hitch capacity (do NOT assume that what is printed on the hitch is the towing capacity-- often coach manufacturers buy a heavier hitch and use it on a number of different models-- not all of which have the same towing capacity) Chassis maker's towing capacity (something like transmission may be the limiter) Coach maker's towing capacity (there are quite a few coaches built with frame extensions that are much less strong than the chassis maker's frame, so the coach maker degrades the towing capacity) Brett

1. How many miles do you typically dinghy tow your vehicle yearly? 6,000 miles 2. What is the total tow mileage you have on your vehicle now? 17,328 miles 3. What is the total tow mileage you expect to put on the vehicle before you upgrade to a new vehicle? 100,000 miles 4. When towing, what is the average amount of time between stops? (be it restroom or fuel)? 4 hours 5. How often do you stop for a period of 10 min or more? (be it restroom, stretch, eat, fuel)? 4 hours 6. What is your preferred cruising speed? 60 MPH 7. Do you use a rock shield? Yes 8. Where does the rock shield mount (bumper,towbar,dinghy, or... so what type)? Towbar

Bud, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I would call HWH on Monday-- they are very good with troubleshooting (as are their manuals). Most manuals are on-line at: http://www.hwhcorp.com/service34.html. There were issues on some jacks with weak return springs-- don't know if your series/year was involved. HWH 800 321-3494 or 563 724-3396. Brett

Mike, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Assume your coach is equipped with 50 amp shore power. If so, all you need to use 30 amp is a 30 amp male to 50 amp female adapter. Available at all RV stores and many Walmarts. The only difference is that you must limit your electrical consumption to under 30 amps. BTW, I HIGHLY recommend coming to an FMCA Convention to anyone new to motorhoming. The number of free seminars that will help bring you up to speed on the many systems in your coach are well worthwhile. Brett

Larry, Did you measure the blade to shroud clearance at exactly the same place on the shroud. Would suspect there to be more variance in shroud than blades. And, if no vibration, it may be that they balanced the blades exactly the same as I suggested-- by shortening the heavy/heavier blades. Brett

Bill, I would call FMCA on Monday. I suspect the list is just a sample of tires available under the program. BTW, we are one of the "old timers", though we have replaced our original 9R22.5's with Michelin 255/80R22.5's. Brett

Ya, removing material from the end of the heavy blade(s) would be my first choice.

There is a lot of evidence that changing brake fluid every two years or so materially reduces chances of brake failure on the Bosh brakes. Keeping the phenolic pistons "dry" is as easy as changing fluid. Fluid change is also a good idea on ANY heavy vehicle with hydraulic brakes. New brake fluid boils about 500 degrees F. Old/hydrated brake fluid boils at 286 degrees F. BIG DIFFERENCE. Brett

Rich, With the centrifugal force generated by the spinning fan blade and the fact that many plastic fan blades flex with change in RPM, I would be hesitant to use a stick on weight. At high RPM that would make quite a projectile. If it is just a little out of balance, I would be tempted to just file down the very end of the heavy blade(s). If REALLY out of balance, I would drill a small diameter hole near the end of the light blade and install a very small stainless steel bolt and nylock nut. With a balance checker like you describe, you could move the bolt and nut around to different blades/further in and out the light blade to determine the exact location for perfect balance. Brett

I believe the Bosh brake recall was on Workhorse chassis, NOT Freighliner chassis. There may or may not be one on the Freightliner chassis-- I would check with Freighliner. Brett

Marvin, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Here are prices on Michelins through the FMCA program: http://www.fmca.com/images/stories/pdf/michelin-prices.pdf

I agree with Bill UNLESS he thinks you will make him guarantee that the booster will make the system work to your satisfaction. That would be a different matter. Brett

I am afraid you might end up with one that is NOT towable 4 wheels down going on a generalization. If you have specific units you are considering, you might go: http://www.fmca.com/motorhome/towing.html Click on "Towing Guides-- towing 4 wheels down" and then on the year model you are interested in. Brett

http://www.walkerheavyduty.com/catalog/docs/WHD08_Accessories.pdf Brett

Rufus, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Let's start with the basics: What are your front and rear axle GAWR (from sticker near driver's area)? What are your front and rear axle weights when loaded as you go down the road-- individual wheel position weights even better? What tires do you have and what PSI are you carrying? Has it been aligned since having the "house" built on it and your personal gear loaded in it? Brett

I would start by getting the part number for the exact replacement from your chassis maker. With make and model, you can get the exact dimensions. You might also go by a shop that works on OTR truck exhausts. They could quickly tell you what you need. Brett

As I mentioned above, start by checking the adapters and shore power cord with an ohm meter, as they take a lot of abuse. If they check out OK , THEN start with the coach. A bad ground would not give the red light you mentioned and mrboyer posted (assuming your meter lights are the same as his). Brett

Ross, If his tester is set up the same as yours, he have a VERY serious problem, with HOT and NEUTRAL being reversed. Since I believe this is a 15 amp receptacle at his home, he needs to unplug the coach and have an electrician rewire it. In the meantime if power is needed, use the generator, or test and use another outlet that is properly wired. Brett

I believe you are talking about SWAY BARS (also called ANTI-SWAY BARS). Your chassis may already have one or two. And yes if you have excessive side to side rocking as you drive they are a good place to start. But, they will do nothing for lean. The thicker the sway bar the more resistance to sway. Aftermarket sway bars are thicker than most OE bars. But, before investing in a complete new sway bar, verify that the sway bar bushings and end link bushings are in good condition. Most bushings are rubber. Upgrading to polyurethane bushings may be all you need. Yes, if the bushings are in good condition and you have a lot more sway than other vehicles, sway bars may be in your future. Look at large vehicles in front of you as you drive. See if you sway more than they do. Replacing the bushings is easy with regular hand tools. Be safe and use jack stands when working under any vehicle. Brett

grandyp, Yes, the crankcase breather on ALL diesels (Caterpillar, Cummins, etc) need to be extended to behind the fan shroud so the oil mist and moisture they are supposed to emit are not sucked up by the fan and deposited on the front of the CAC (Charge Air Cooler) where they attract dirt and block air flow. All diesel engines built before 1/1/2007 need this modification. It is important that the extension ONLY RUN DOWNHILL from the engine with no drip loop. Brett

Yes, bad ground or reverse polarity. Either one needs to be fixed before it harms you or your appliances. Brett

Charge time depends on size of battery (in amp-hrs), output of charger (in amps) and whether it is a smart charger (starts at higher voltage then lowers it as the batteries become fully charged) or a "dumb one that charges only at a lower constant rate. If it has an ammeter on the charger, let it run until it is down to 2-3 amp charge rate. With many, it will take overnight to fully charge. Also, if you are driving, the engine's alternator will charge them (assuming the charging system is working properly). Brett