wolfe10

I would get a commercial evaporator cleaner at any home HVAC store and many box stores. Yes, you have to use work towels or something to insure that the cleaner does not get down into the air return or air ducts, but in many cases, the A/C does not need to come off the roof. Be sure you are looking at the EVAPORATOR, not the condenser (which you can see without removing the shroud. The evaporator on a home system is the part in your home. The condenser is the part outside. Compressed air of water (carefully) can be used to clean the condenser, it does not drain into the interior unless you really flood it.

Best bet is to send exactly that description to your coach maker, as there are a number of ways the converter, batteries and switches could have been wired. With your description, it should make their job very easy.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I guess I am about as up on this as anyone, and I have NO IDEA. I spent 20 minutes on Friday with the Service and Parts Director for one of the metro Houston Ford dealers. Last week, he was at a meeting in Detroit. All that he said was that Ford people as well as dealer personnel all felt the communications on this was not up to par. But, he had no idea when/if it would improve. When you call the Ford Customer Service line, they say all are towable (i.e. they don't even have a copy of the Owners Manual Addendum that says some models are not towable)! I have no idea (either way) if the hybrid has the same issues as the other Escapes. I can tell you that the Escape hybrid was originally listed as TOWABLE 4 wheels down. But, so was the non-hybrid Escape-- and clearly that has been "revisited".

Quite a lot of "sweet spot" RPM depends on the engine. Normally it is 100-200 RPM above your engine's PEAK TORQUE RPM. You can look that up for your ISL. And gearing involves tires (expressed in revolutions per mile) and rear axle ratio. Most rear axles have a tag on them with the ratio stamped on them. The transmission is not a factor as all Allison 3000 series have the same ratios with 4th being 1:1, 5th being .75 and 6th being .65. The formula for RPM/MPH is: (RPM X 60) divided by (rear axle ratio X transmission ratio X tire revolutions per mile)= MPH Get the tire revolutions per mile from your tire manufacturers spec sheet (also on line). The smaller the engine, the higher the peak torque RPM, so comparing engines of different sizes can be misleading. Brett

Yes, the information furnished to FMCA by Ford Motor Company in time for the January issue (towing issue) was that it IS towable. That is why you have an insert/addendum that says it is not-- the original manual said it was. BTW, GM has done the same thing this year.

Jamiesjoss, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Not sure I understand. The chassis battery tested fine, but would not start the engine. But, jump-starting to the same (fully charged) battery did start it? Or, did you connect the jump-start battery to another place. If so, sounds like you need to start by cleaning battery terminals and connection at starter as well as the ground to engine block and chassis.

Pat, What make and model system do you have?

William, Of what material is the sink made? Answers for stainless steel will be different than for corian.

Stuart, Would be very interested in the details. What chassis? What front and rear axle GAWR? What tires (Manufacturer and size)? What PSI on the GVWR Plaque? Thanks.

The good news is that most coaches with air brakes and/or air suspensions have AIR DRYERS between the on-engine air compressor and the tanks that feed the other systems.

I agree. I would have read "silica" as dirt, but the analysis has an explanation on the back of the test results and that is what it says. Brett

As Herman said, make sure you don't have a tire out of round or balance problem. Also make sure the bolts/screws fastening the mirrors to the coach are tight.

Bill, Oil analysis includes "Silicon" content and, at least on the oil sample form I pulled out on our engine is expressed in PPM (Parts Per Million). It reflects amount of dirt entry into the oil.

Others who have attended more recent Cummins seminars than I have can probably give more specific, recent info on Cummins position. I am usually tied up giving another seminar when the Cummins seminar is presented, so it has been several years since I have attended one. The question often comes up in the Q&A at both the Caterpillar and Cummins seminars.. I guess my basic question is what was air filter minder reading using the regular filter that lead you to consider the K&N. If restriction, "fine tune" the intake system (side of coach to turbo). That may (or may not) include a larger filter housing/filter. The air filter (OE) on our coach is so oversized, I have never seen an air filter minder reading of 5 column inches.

Historically, both Cummins and Caterpillar have recommended AGAINST K&N filters. Is this some new technology or just a new application of the old technology? What I find compelling about Caterpillar's statement is that they don't sell air filters, so they "have no skin in the game" when they made that statement. Both suggest that, yes, they can let in more air, but also more dirt than conventional filters.

Stuart, The placard PSI is based on each axle being loaded to its GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating). It may be close, or (hopefully) will be off with your actual weight being under the rating to give you some safety margin.

As RVerOnTheMove said, the 30 amp male to 50 amp female adapter will work just fine, but would allow be limited by your coach main breaker to 30 amps total draw. The adapter connects just one of the 50 amp's hot to the 30 amp's hot. Brett

Google quickly came up with this link: http://www.pumpvendor.com/media/flojet/pdf/Flojet_04406-043_04406-043A_04406043A.pdf

AGREED! I am a little surprised that a reputable tire dealer would do that-- really puts him and you in a compromising and potentially dangerous situation.

Don, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Does your system have an ACCUMULATOR in it? What pump do you have? Does this still happen when you open the faucet all the way, or only at lower demand levels? Brett

The lowest PSI on the inflation chart for your tire is as low as you want the PSI, even if it weights less. And cold PSI is NOT at a specific temperature-- it is before driving the tire at whatever ambient temperature you are in. So it could be 10 degrees or 100 degrees F.

If you can find out from Monaco who made their A/C components (very few RV manufacturers custom build dash HVAC's), you could contact them. And, if the condenser fan is not coming on, indeed, you will run high on the high pressure side. Electrically, the relay will be between the fuse and the fan.

Paul, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Since you went UP in load range, that is not a problem. That gives you more safety margin. I would not suggest mixing old tires of one brand and new ones of another brand on a dual situation. They are very unlikely to be the same diameter. and the larger one will carry much more of the load.

While that is possible, it is more likely that the low voltage is not enough to keep the solenoid "locked in". Again, I would start by getting the batteries up to full charge and just see if there are other Gremlins then-- even if you have to use a separate charger.

Don't use stop leak-- too many small passages to clog up. Engine repair is a LOT more expensive than radiator repair. Have a reputable radiator shop that works on OTR truck radiators (not engine shop) look at it with you to make a determination of what needs to be done and the relative prices.