wolfe10

Correct, 360 HP, 800 lb-ft torque.

Sorry, I prefer to feed the toad battery off the coach battery when the coach is running. Many toad ECM's get cranky when continually disconnected from power. Running one extra wire, two fuses and a relay is a more reliable way to go.

Bruce, NO, if one tank goes to 130, the compressor and governor are OK-- that is all they are supposed to do. Are you certain this is an actual air pressure issue and not a gauge/sender unit issue??? If one tank is showing 130 and you turn off the engine and hear no leaks, I would start looking at gauges/senders. Freightliner has had issues with this-- check with them.

If the air compressor is working properly and air pressure does not come up, there has to be a massive leak. It could be a dump valve hanging up, air dryer, etc. The other possibility is that the governor that controls the air compressor is sticking and not calling for the compressor to operate. If you can not hear an air leak, consider replacing the governor-- they are not expensive. Brett

Their website (http://www.astoriarv.com/specs.php) shows 360 HP. Same on the Freightliner spec sheet for the Astoria: http://freightlinerchassis.com/images/pdf/Damon/Thor%20-%20Astoria%20Feb%202012.pdf

Have run both XRV and XZE over the last 169,000 miles. No problems with either and certainly no wear issues with either-- always replaced because of age, not wear. Current ones are 255/80R22.5 XZE's and are 7 years old, with a little over 50,000 miles. Yes, they are very well cared for and checked annually. No problems of any kind and LOTS of tread left. Will surely replace these because of age issues as well. But, I will point out that just yesterday in inspected a coach whose 5 year old tires were totally shot. They stored their coach outside in the high desert with no tire covers, and the sidewalls of all exterior tires were badly checked. There is NO XX number of months and you need to replace them. As quoted by Michelin, IF, repeat IF tires are well cared for (proper inflation, never overloaded, protected from UV light when not on the road, no harmful products used on them, etc) beginning at 5 years they need to be inspected by a tire professional annually and absolutely replaced at 10 years. Brett

Rather than go on time or mileage, evaluate shocks as follows: Visual inspection: If leaking (not just damp with oil, but leaking), replace them. If any wear in bushings/attachment points, replace them. Performance test: Go over a speed bump at normal low speeds. If an axle bounces more than 1.5 times, time for new shocks. Brett

Installation times vary WIDELY-- some simple bolt ups, others requiring removal of engine front end. Use this to access instructions and approximate install times for any Roadmaster base plates: http://www.roadmasterinc.com/vehicle_guide/tow_bar_brackets.php I suspect other base plate manufacturers have similar information available. Suggest you look up the one quoted to get a better idea of installation procedure and time requirement.

Stuart, The 75 MPH max speed limit on the tire should be good for the service life of the tire IF a tire is inflated to the proper PSI per tire manufacturer's chart (see below *) which says that: 1. the tire is not overloaded, since weight is ON the tire chart AND 2. the tire is not under inflated. *The tire manufacturer's chart gives the MINIMUM PSI for a given WEIGHT. Most of us add 5 PSI to that MINIMUM to account for those big Walmart shopping trips, PSI decrease with temperature drop, etc.

Stuart, I guess I would ask from the other end-- do you ever intend to drive your motorhome OVER 75 MPH???

Please give us details on what equipment was quoted. There is a reasonably wide range in cost depending on equipment. Not reasonable to lump them all together.

Method of preventing battery discharge also depends on what toad brake you have. Many use the toad battery. If so, the proper solution is to run a charge line from coach to toad battery.

William, Before spending the big bucks, have you verified with a digital voltmeter that the TWO 12 VDC positives are at 12 or more VDC? Easiest to check at the transmission side of the fuses. One is for ECU memory (i.e. is hot all the time) and is the smaller of the fuses (5 amp in many cases). The other fuse is only hot when the ignition is on. If both of these are OK and ground for the Allison ECU is clean and tight, give John (one of my first posts) a call. All he does is work with Allison ECU's and shift pads. Yes, plan C is to get an expert to look at it. Brett

Place to start is to weigh wheel positions/axles and use tire manufacturer's specs for proper tire pressure for that load. Weighing will also tell you if the front axle is too lightly loaded. A too lightly loaded leaf spring, whether on a one ton truck or F53 chassis WILL ride rough. And, no shock will fix that. Feel free to post your actual weights, GAWR (plaque in coach) and your tire size and brand and tire pressure. Then we may be able to offer specific recommendations. Brett

Are the things that aren't working only those things that work with the ignition key in the ON position or do they include things that normally work when the key is not in the ignition?

Don, Start by verifying connections. Next, start tracing from the battery end from where you go from POWER to NO POWER. And when you say no power from the chassis battery, do you mean when you turn the key on nothing happens? What happens when you hit the battery boost/combine switch? Brett

HomerLee, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Please use the links/information in the post just above yours to get pricing. This is handled by staff at FMCA, not anyone on the forum. Thanks.

http://67.238.126.140/pdf/OS2161%20SideWise%20FeatrSht.pdf

Check with your chassis maker, particularly true if a Freightliner chassis (a fairly common issue). Brett

Herman, He could, but with the other electrical issues, it wouldn't be where I would start.

The two statements are not necessarily in conflict with each other. It could be that there is a high failure rate on aftermarket cooling units. That may or may not include the Amish units. So, that is the question I would ask of your service manager-- do you have any experience with the Amish cooling units, and if so do they experience the same high failure rate? I have no experience with any of the aftermarket cooling units, so please don't read this as a positive or negative comment about the quality of the Amish units. Brett

As Herman suggested, please do not type in solid letter caps-- hard to read and is interpreted as shouting. Thanks. Before pulling the alternator, I would suggest eliminating the batteries and battery connections as the source of the problem. Your voltage readings of 14.5 to 15 suggests severe overcharging, if that is the voltage they were maintained at for any period of time. So, start by checking battery water level. Next, I would load test them-- have someone crank the starter while you check voltage at the batteries. And, yes, 12 VDC power is needed to keep your diesel running/keep the fuel shutoff plunger in the run position. Brett

Planocat, Indeed, varnishing isn't the only thing that can render a carburetor DOA. It is, however, the most common. Brett

A varnished carburetor is a symptom of not exercising the generator enough. Said another way, the good gasoline evaporates, leaving a residue. Couple of choices: 1. Exercise the generator as it should be-- once a month for a minimum of 40 minutes at 50% load. 2. Install a ball valve in the fuel line and run the generator out of fuel (best if all electrical loads are off when you do this) so no fuel sits in the carb. 3. Use Stabil or other fuel stabilizer when storing the coach. 4. 1 and 3.

Mac8253 http://www.michelinrvtires.com/michelinrv/toolbox/reference-material.jsp Click on "RV Tire Guide".