wolfe10

While color coding is pretty well universal, you are correct, you will need to verify wiring. No big deal. Turn on lights, turn, and brakes and note which tires are hot on the toad end. Not really that big a deal. Brett

You can check with Freightliner-- many air systems have a check valve such that air would not escape when you remove the check valve. BUT (yes, BIG BUT) it is a lot safer to release all air pressure before working on the air system. Use jack stands if, with the bags deflated you do not have room. And before doing anything, I would check with the makers of your air dryer to confirm the part number of the proper valve. Brett

Yes, there are two more "devices to slow you down". One is the drive line retarder you mention-- not aware of any RV manufacturers who used them. The other is a TRANSMISSION RETARDER. Foretravel and, I understand, Prevost use them. The transmission will be a 3000R or 4000R. Very expensive and even more powerful than a compression brake.

Congratulations. I am SURE-- lesson learned. Brett

Planocat, There is a lot of confusion over the term Jake brake. There are two types of brakes on diesel engines: Exhaust brakes-- basically a "potato stuck in the tail pipe" that the pistons have to work hard against. These are generally used on smaller diesel engines (up to about 9 liters). Engine compression brakes, more generally known as a Jake brake-- open the exhaust valve as the piston approaches TDC on the compression stroke, releasing all the energy stored in the compressed gas out the exhaust pipe. Used on larger diesel engines. The confusion comes in because Jacobs Corp makes BOTH an exhaust and engine compression brake. So, some call their exhaust brake a Jake brake (made by Jacobs Corp). Others, with a Jake brake (engine compression brake) also call theirs (rightly so) a Jake brake. Brett

Clicking on the two on the Michelin website http://www.michelinrvtires.com/michelinrv/tires-retreads/new-tires.jsp , then click on each tire and then on "specifications" shows that they are not made in the same sizes, so size would dictate which would fit your coach.

****, We have driven some really steep grades throughout the U.S, Canada and Mexico. I have ONLY used the service brakes to slow down enough to "grab" the next lower gear. Yes, on one really steep descent in the Green Mountains of Vermont, that was 2nd gear with the exhaust brake on. No service braking needed. 15-20 MPH all the way down. We rounded a corner and "blasted by" a loaded logging truck, whose equilibrium speed was about 6 MPH. Yes, I have seen and even smelled coaches where the driver did not use their transmissions, engine brakes and service brakes properly. Brett

Check and make sure that you did not open one of the drain. This assumes that the water is leaking directly on the ground, not into the basement and then seeping out through the floor.

From your post of the converter information, it clearly states that it has separate circuits for battery charging (5 amps) and the house 12 VDC appliances (30 amps). So, if it is malfunctioning, you it is possible you could get different (and excessive) voltage on one but not the other-- these are older than I have personally worked with. There are a number of excellent replacements out there. Brett

Jim, If you can get in the coach and the batteries being too low is the issue, start the generator (jump start it if you need to) to bring voltage up to where you can open everything. If you can't access the generator to jump it, you can always crawl under (with safety stands recommended) and hook the jumper hot to the main engine starter lug, ground to frame. Then hit the "boost" button to allow power to go from main engine starter to generator starter. It may be that just jumping to the main engine starter and using the "boost" button will bring voltage up to where you can open the compartments.

Denny, Henderson shows the SKU: 42-230 for $549. I have not researched what mounting kit that would require, but you might contact them: http://www.hendersonslineup.com/products/motorhome-steering-and-tracking/safe-t-plus-steering-control--ifs-hiem-joints.html

Hopefully, someone will contact you with wiring diagrams. Have you searched for a Trevelaire owners group-- many RV brands have a brand specific technical site made up of owners. Please tell us what converter you have. Some of these older ones separately charged batteries (poorly) and provided separate 12 VDC (actually around 13.5 VDC) to the house. So, on the face of it, the converter would be my first "suspect". The converter is the only device that could possibly boost voltage to the house above that at the battery. And lastly, have you checked the water level in your batteries-- overcharging boils the water out!

John, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Actually, there a lot of people looking for a solid built, non-complex higher end DP. Particularly if you have all the maintenance records, it could make someone a great coach. Brett

Yes, there are many Caterpillar engine equipped motorhomes using Silverleaf. I would suggest you contact Silverleaf with your engine and coach information to explore your options. Brett

Welcome to the Forum. Does this high 12 VDC voltage occur when you are plugged in or when running the engine? Or both times? That will tell you if you have a converter problem or alternator/regulator problem. Assume you have verified the voltage with a digital voltmeter. Let us know and we can go from there-- I don't suspect a "basic wiring problem"-- at least that would be well down the list. And, if that high voltage has been present very long, the batteries are certainly low on water and may be ruined. Check water level and also check to see if the sides are swollen. Brett

Charles, What Chevy PU do you have that, with a RZR in the bed only weighs 3,000 pounds??? Setting reasonable expectations for performance on grades is always a learning experience for those how are first time driver's of large/heavy vehicles. They ARE different that a car or SUV. Caterpillar Corp has an excellent document that applies to ALL heavy vehicles, gas and diesel (let's face it, physics is physics). You can view it here-- I think. If you have to register, it is free and done to keep out SPAM: http://www.catrvclub.org/forum/index.php/topic,6594.0.html Then you can download the "Understanding Coach (RV) Performance".

As I suggested above: Short wheelbase to overall length coaches do not handle as well as that same coach in a longer model. Clearly, engineering such as Gary Jones put in the Alpine chassis can compensate for a short wheelbase/OL. I completely agree. All suspensions, weight distribution, etc are NOT equal. Another example of a shorter, good handling coach is the Foretravel 34'. 8 outboard air bags, 8 shocks, etc DO help overcome it's short wheelbase/OL. BTW, here is another topic covering a lot of the same ground: http://community.fmca.com/topic/3608-are-30-diesel-pushers-too-short-for-a-good-ride/

Allison help line 800 252 5283 Brett

Mike, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Let's start by verifying that your transmission is capable of handling more HP. Do you have the MD3060 6 speed Allison-- it can handle more. If an Allison 4 speed, call Allison with your transmission serial number to verify that it can handle more HP.

There generally significant handling and ride penalties associated with a DP shorter than about 36'. Steering geometry and driver's position pretty much dictates front overhang. Length of driveshaft, transmission, engine and sometimes even the CAC and radiator dictate rear overhang. That means to turn a 40' coach into a 33' coach, virtually all the difference is taken out of the wheelbase. Short wheelbase to overall length coaches do not handle as well as that same coach in a longer model.

Cecil, Two different answers. Sates recognize the licensing statutes of other states (assuming you are not registering out of state just to avoid state taxes). So, if your car, motorhome and dolly meet the statutes in your home state, you are good to go. But, brake requirements, as well as length, weight, speed, etc follow the laws of the state/province in which you are driving.

Pat, You are on the right track. Seal all holes you can find. Since you are in a humid area where steel wool could rust, I would use bronze or stainless steel course wool to fill the holes around wires and plumbing. You can also use the spray foam insulation. Don't store food in the coach. If your coach is stored in the same place all the time, I would put some regular mouse traps with peanut butter around the tires/perimeter of the coach and try to diminish the number of mice in the area. Brett

Butch, That is always the safest approach. I am surprised, however that a dealer was vague on what was done (unless you spoke with a salesman). Did you contact the service manager? I PROMISE YOU that they did not do work or install parts for which there was no ticket! The ticket could be in the previous owner's name, new or used vehicle department (as an internal ticket) or in your name depending on when the work was done. Worth another call. Brett

Status is based on number of posts. Make more posts on the forum and you can "graduate".

Then, drain, filter change and new fluid should do you just fine. Brett