wolfe10

Several points here. Water is heavier than diesel. So, look for a drain plug on your fuel tank (up to your chassis maker as to whether one is fit). As an alternative, if you can feed a hose in the in the fuel filler that reaches the bottom of the tank (I have used a hose with fishing weight zip tied to the end), use the coach levelers to tilt the coach front to back/side to side so that where your hose is in the tank is the LOW POINT. Let it sit for a couple of hours so the water all runs to that low point. Start a siphon and siphon until you get clear, golden diesel. Another alternative if in an area with marine interests is to have a "fuel polisher" polish the fuel. They feed a suction line into the bottom to the fuel tank and, with a high volume pump, pump it through large external filters and back into your tank. Yet another approach is to just carry several sets of spare filters and change them as they clog up, draining the water as required. If the level of water reaches the paper element, it is time to change the filter element. If your water issue is accompanied by an algae growth (black, slimy "gunk" in the filter) use a BIOCIDE from any marine store. Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. As he stated, the 1000 watt generator would make an excellent means of charging your batteries while dry camping. If that is the only reason for running a generator, this would be more efficient than running your large generator just to charge the batteries. If you have a larger inverter/charger with its high amp charger, you will probably need to reprogram it to limit its power consumption to under 1000 watts-- no big deal. You will have to weigh out whether the space taken with the additional generator and hassle of hooking it up and running it is worth it. Brett

Jim, When you have the axle weights, or better, individual wheel position weights, let us know what they are along with your axle GAWR (from the sticker near the driver's area in most coaches). Another real advantage of knowing actual weights is that you can accurately determine correct tire pressure. Improper inflation can also lead to wandering. Brett

Chuck, It is possible that the different alignment shops have different ideas of the "ideal" caster or toe on your chassis. Would be interesting to compare the before and after alignment printouts from the two shops-- let me know if you have them. Of course it is also possible that a big pothole, etc in those intervening miles cause an alignment issue. BTW, both shops have excellent reputations.

Koliver, As sensitive as the catalytic converter surfaces are (like being ruined by the use of any fuel with more than 15 parts per MILLION of Sulfur) I suspect injecting waste upstream of the converter would be a great way to spend a couple of thousand dollars replacing it. Would be interesting to get Cummins opinion on that one!

Ultratraveler, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Your chassis manufacturer has your ride height specs. You will likely measure from some given point on the axle to some given point on the chassis. So, armed with those points and a ruler/tape you are good to go. Be sure to use safety stands if you have an air suspension. Brett

Chuck, A minor point. Installation of a Safe-T-Plus has no affect on alignment. So no need to check alignment. What it can do if not properly adjusted is cause the coach to pull to one side. Said another way, the devices "dead center" MUST align with the coach's from suspension in a "dead straight" position. Often, a minor adjustment is needed to bring the devices attachment to the proper position. I take a box wrench with me on a test drive, along with a piece of masking tape to mark where the bracket is. If the coach doesn't run dead straight, I stop and move the attachment point-- often less than 1/8". But again none of this affects caster, camber or toe. But, when installing new tires or rotating old ones, I temporarily remove the Safe-T-Plus so I know it is not "masking" a tire-caused pull to one side or the other. Reinstall it next time I stop. Brett

Dean, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Two approaches. You can contact Monaco to see if they can send you a wiring diagram and/or talk you through switch and solenoid location. OR, you can grab a voltmeter and starting at the battery, follow the large positive wire to and through any switches, breakers or solenoids to see where you loose power. Brett

Not sure suggesting one ignore a "water in fuel" warning light is sage advice! Brett

Griff, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I would suggest you do two things: 1. Weigh the individual wheel positions to determine if the right side is substantially heavier than the left/axles are above/below GAWR. 2. Go to a truck dealer specializing in your chassis, armed with the information from #1 above. Leveling a vehicle with spring suspension is not rocket science. Leafs can be added or removed (actual weights will help determine which), shims can be added, etc. Done all the time. Brett

Elgin, Thanks. Good to hear from someone knowledgeable in the business. What should one look for in a quality vinyl graphic?

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. Have you contacted Fleetwood for the wiring diagram? Assume you have verified that the batteries are not discharged-- read 12+ VDC. And, first thing I would check is any wiring in the damaged area to look for cut or shorted wires. Then check all chassis 12 VDC fuses. Next, do any accessories such as dash HVAC fan operate with the key is in the on position? If not, check that the IGNITION SOLENOID (not starter solenoid) is working. Brett

Interesting concept. Questions: Size Weight Initial Cost Energy consumption-- the article mentions the most current model uses 1000 watts--for what period of time per gallon of waste? Reliability Makes sense for a boat where dumping holding tanks can be a real issue. Having spent last winter on a sailboat from Texas to the Bahamas and back, I know. But, in an RV, this would be in lieu of dumping at a CG, Flying J, etc and allowing effluent to be treated by the city water treatment facility or CG septic system. Not sure of its benefit in our application. When boon docking, where waste disposal could be an issue, the main engine is not operating to burn off the treated effluent. And even if high idle would achieve sufficient exhaust temperatures (which I seriously doubt), I can't fathom suggesting that one run a large gas/diesel engine just to dispose of waste. Said another way, as far as I can see, it would only benefit the very small number of people who boondock frequently AND who move frequently. As to how far they would have to drive to dispose of, say 50 gallons of gray and black water would be another issue even for this small group.

Mark, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. When looking at any older coach, two things I would suggest: 1. Look over service records-- be they loose receipts, in a book or on their computer. A well maintained 14 year old DP is barely broken in as far as the chassis is concerned. BUT, if it has been neglected-- well, no different than any other machine. 2. Pay for someone (or more than one person) skilled in chassis AND house systems to go over the coach-- preferably with you there. It is important for you to know now only what they find wrong, but for the two of you to be able to discuss recommended maintenance and be able to talk out what is within your skill level and what things you will need for others to do. I would also suggest that condition and maintenance through the years is more important than selling price. I would far rather see someone get a good coach at higher price than for them to think they were getting a bargain because of low price on one that has been neglected. BTW, our coach is a 1993, so a 1998 "ain't" that old! Brett

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. For a quick answer, go to the top right of this page and in the "search" box, type in "warranty" . You will find several discussions on this very topic. Once you look those over, please post any questions.

Gary, The vast majority of hose clamps/the whole cooling system is installed by your chassis maker. So, if it is Powerglide, indeed give Tiffin a heads up. If not, contact Freightliner, Spartan, etc. And, be happy they used an ELC. The OAT-based coolants are a lot less work (no checking and adding SCA as with regular diesel coolant) and more expensive than standard coolant-- kudos to them. I assume you added the pre-dilute coolant not concentrate???

Good point, Chuck. We don't know whether he has a propane-fueled heater or hydronic system. TOTALLY different. Please let us know AND any other diagnostic clues you have observed.

Have you checked that your that your leveling system "indicators" ARE actually calibrated with a carpenter's level?

This post from Generator Jim (he is unable to get online right now): Potted ONAN electronic regulators are now capped at 132 volts which is considered a safe voltage level. 108 is considered the low limit. Have the him check frequency of unit (speed) as, even with electronic regulation, speed has an effect on voltage. Voltage level is not normally adjustable in the rv units, although it can be done by rewiring the regulator plug with a rheostat. The wiring diagram for the rheostat is in the 50 cycle and commercial unit wiring diagram. Jim Latour (generator jim)

Chuck, Just FYI, Caterpillar ELC coolant IS red. I am positive, since I drained mine today to replace a faulty block heater. So, as you say, color is NOT a good determinant of fluid type/source. Brett

Eddie, You are correct with two caveats: Your answer ASSUMES perfect left/right weight distribution-- not likely with most coaches. The tire manufacturer's chart gives the MINIMUM PSI for a given weight. So, until you get individual wheel position weights, you need a "fudge factor" to account for unequal weight distribution. Once you have individual wheel position weights, go to your tire manufacturer's load chart with the HEAVIER WHEEL POSITION ON EACH AXLE. It's PSI is then used on ALL tires on that axle. And, because you don't want to have to worry about PSI every time you add weight-- fill with fuel and a big shopping trip at Walmart, you need to add a little to compensate for more than that weight you measured. So, most add 5 PSI to compensate for left right weight imbalance and 5 PSI to give you a little safety cushion (over minimum PSI for a given weight)-- as long as this PSI does not exceed the tire or wheel maximums. And as soon as you are able to do individual wheel position weighing, you MAY be able to lower PSI a little if your left/right weight distribution is close. Conclusion, I would run 100 front/90 rear until you have individual wheel position weights. BTW, that is cold PSI-- NOT at a specific temperature, but before driving at whatever ambient temperature you are in. Brett

What generator? Include model numbers if you have them. Was this no load? If so, what was voltage under 50% load?

I have a minor difference of opinion from the excellent post by vtbigdog. On descending a grade, gas or diesel, the objective is to find a gear (with diesel, transmission gear AND use of exhaust or engine brake) THAT WILL KEEP YOUR SPEED IN EQUILIBRIUM. By that I mean neither accelerating nor decelerating WITHOUT USING THE SERVICE BRAKES/BRAKE PEDAL. Those truck "Run Away Lanes" on major grades are for heavy vehicles that used there service brakes to the point where they overheated and became ineffective. So, use gears/engine brakes to keep your speed in check-- IRRESPECTIVE OF STRAIGHT/CURVES in the road. As a good reference, your equilibrium speed will be faster than loaded 18 wheelers and slower than empty ones-- straight physics (braking HP vs weight). Example: We were descending a 12% grade in the Green Mountains (REALLY steep). I was in second gear with the exhaust brake on in our diesel. We were going down about 18 MPH. Dianne was concerned someone would rear end us. Around the next corner, we quickly overtake and passed a logging truck doing about 8 MPH-- his equilibrium speed. Even though the curves in the road said we could go 30-35 MPH, doing so would mean WAY over-using the service brakes. Brett

Gary, Not familiar with our chassis, but red fluid means either ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) which can be used for hydraulics as well as for the transmission, OR coolant. By feeling it/smelling it you should be able to tell the difference between an oil and a coolant. And the manual that came with your chassis should tell you what that reservoir/site glass is for. Plan "B": Hopefully, someone with the same chassis will be log in. If not, call Tiffin in the morning. Brett

Ernie, What was the problem with the 50 amp service?