wolfe10

Air blowing but not heat means that the thermostat is working and the fan is coming on. The problem may be inadequate CFM to close the SAIL SWITCH. Blocked air return, too many vents closed, crushed ducts, low voltage at the furnace are common causes. It could also be that the PC board is bad-- many RV dealers have testers for them, but start by removing the connections from the PC board and gently cleaning with an eraser. The PC board is the "brains" of the furnace. It receives the "turn on" signal from the thermostat, receives OK signal from sail switch, opens propane valve/powers igniter, etc. Listen carefully outside by the furnace when you have someone turn it on. Do you hear the IGNITER clicking? Smell propane out the exhaust (GAS VALVE opening)? Brett

Might be time to sanitize your water system. Here is a thread that may be of interest: http://community.fmca.com/topic/62-forgot-to-empty-fresh-water-tank/

Have you conformed 12+ VDC/same voltage as when it does run at the furnace when it fails? And exactly how far in the process does it get when not working-- do you hear the igniter and/or click of the propane solenoid? Also, many RV dealers have a tester that can test the furnace's PC board. But even before pulling it out remove the connections from the PC board and gently use an eraser to clean the contacts. Brett

Yes, I agree. But suspect it may be easier to access the sender unit on the engine. Same diagnostic logic applies-- you are right on. Brett

Herman, If, as the tech told you, that ground on the sense wire= high PSI, before concluding the cause, disconnect the wire from the sender. If the gauge goes to zero, that would suggest that the sender unit is faulty (even though new). If disconnecting the wire still gives a high gauge reading, he may be correct and the problem is likely in the wiring. BUT, if you can isolate that wire at the gauge and remove it, you can check with an ohm meter between the wire and ground and also see if the gauge shows zero pressure with the wire disconnected. Brett

Herman, Battery voltage makes a big difference on whether the fan is turning fast enough to close the sail switch. But, without more information we would just be guessing. Issues could include: Battery with bad cell, faulty or mis-programmed charger or converter, poor electrical connection anywhere between battery and furnace, etc. Do the diagnostics I outlined above. Plan "B" is to pull out your digital voltmeter and confirm voltage at battery AND at the furnace. Brett

The furnace run sequence is: Thermostat signals furnace PC board to turn on the furnace. PC board tells fan to start. If adequate air flow to close sail switch, the PC board signals the propane valve to open AND the igniter to spark. If flame is detected, the thermocouple tells the PC board and the PC board keeps the furnace running. So where I recommend starting is verifying that you are getting as far as propane valve opening/igniter sparking. VERY easy-- just listen for the igniter clicking. If no clicking, you are not getting that far into the run sequence. Brett

Herman, There are so many different sender units/gauge packages that it would be virtually impossible for us to know how yours is set up. I would start by calling Monaco and asking them how to troubleshoot this problem. They should be able to give you a step by step process-- may be as simple as disconnecting the wire at the sender and verifying reading, touching that wire for an instant to chassis ground and verifying reading, etc. Could be the sender to gauge wire grounding somewhere. Please let us know what you find, so the next person with your chassis/coach will know what to do. Thanks. Brett

Boy, difficult to diagnose when it is not "mis-behaving". But, the number one cause of a furnace not lighting, but fan running, is inadequate air flow to close the SAIL SWITCH. And, the number one cause of inadequate air flow is low voltage which means the furnace fan is not turning fast enough to supply enough air flow. Other causes of inadequate air flow are blocked or inadequately sized air return and/or heater vents closed, ducting crushed, etc restricting air flow out of the furnace. How sure are you that battery voltage at the furnace was 12.0 VDC or more when this happened? Brett

Butch, Thanks. Yes, that matches the specs of the current generation 8000 posted in the link I posted above. Again, on the larger generators (Like the Onan10,000+ watt generators) 240 is possible, but controlling voltage on BOTH legs is difficult enough that few coach makers wire them as 240.

Solid GOLD. Thanks. Brett

Wayne, Actually VERY few differences in either of our understandings in that other thread, just use if different terms that were starting to confuse many-- Herman wasn't the first to observe that! And as you identify in your post here, whether the generator is wired 120 VAC or 240 VAC was in question-- that is why I posted the link to Onan generator website to show that all the 6.5/7.0 KW Onans are wired 120 VAC. Let me try to go through your questions one by one-- My response in SOLID LETTER CAPS (no, not yelling, just easier to separate ANSWER from the question): "...it was stated that watts divided by voltage equals amps.: YES, OR MORE COMMONLY STATED (SAME MATHEMATICALLY-- VOLTS TIMES AMPS= WATTS). "In a 7500 Watt system, providing two independent 120 volt sources...": WAYNE, I ASSUME YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT AN ONAN 7500 WATT GENERATOR. IF A DIFFERENT UNIT, PLEASE POST. NO CURRENT SPECS FOR IT ON ONAN'S WEBSITE, BUT HERE ARE THE SPECS FOR THE NEWER 8000 DIESEL http://www.cumminson...111&detail=true. IT SHOWS TO BE SET UP AS 120 VAC ONLY-- NO 24O OPTION. SO START BY CHECKING THE SPECS FOR YOUR GENERATOR TO SEE IF IT IS 120 VAC, 240 VAC OR ALLOWS THE COACH MAKER TO CHOOSE BETWEEN THE TWO. "So that is why I'm confused about the 7500 watt generator providing power. In my case, everything operates when the generator is running". WAYNE, SORRY ONE WOULD HAVE TO LOOK AT YOUR WIRING DIAGRAM, INCLUDING HOW THE Electrical Management System WORKS TO BE ABLE TO ANSWER THAT ONE. CLEARLY A 7500 WATT GENERATOR PROVIDES MORE POWER THAN 30 AMP SHORE POWER-- 30 AMPS TIME 120 VOLTS= 3600 WATTS-- FAR LESS THAN 7500 PROVIDED BY YOUR GENERATOR). "So I'm not sure if the 7500 watts is split in half or not." IF BY SPLIT IN HALF YOU MEAN TO HOTS L1 AND L2, YOU WOULD NEED TO LOOK AT YOUR WIRING DIAGRAM AND/OR GENERATOR BOOK. AS POSTED IN THE ONAN LINK ABOVE, THEIR CURRENT 8000 DIESEL GENERATOR IS 120 VAC ONLY. IF THIS LEFT QUESTIONS UNANSWERED OR BROUGHT UP OTHERS, LET US KNOW-- HOPEFULLY SOMEONE ELSE WITH A SIMILAR ENERGY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM AND GENERATOR (PLEASE POST WHAT GENERATOR YOU HAVE AND WHETHER IT IS 120 OR 240) CAN DIG UP A SCHEMATIC AND BE ABLE TO ADDRESS YOUR QUESTION MORE COMPLETELY. Brett

August 2011 Dear Chevrolet Customer, As the owner of a 2011 model year Chevrolet Cruze, equipped with a 6-speed automatic transmission, your satisfaction with our product is very important to us. We are contacting you to make you aware that General Motors has received reports of transmissions overheating while towing 2011 model year Chevrolet Cruze vehicles, equipped with a 6-speed automatic transmission, with all four wheels on the ground (dinghy towing). In a few cases, this had led to damage to internal transmission components, and required replacement of the transmission. General Motors requires that if you tow your vehicle, you tow it with the rear wheels on the ground and the front wheels up on a device known as a dolly, following the instructions provided by the dolly manufacturer. Enclosed is a revised page to update your Cruze Owner Manual which contains revised instructions regarding towing your Cruze. Please take a moment to insert this supplement into Section 10 of your Owner Manual for future reference. If you have any questions or concerns, please contact the Chevrolet Customer Assistance Center at 1-800-222-1020 (TTY 1-800-833-2438). We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause. Jim Moloney General Director, Customer and Relationship Services

Please clarify. Is the water coming from the anti-siphon valve and leaking into the shower pan (where it goes down the drain) or is it leaking inside the wall (where it can do damage)?

Actually, I believe all of us were referring to the propane-fired heater, though this is a good time to point out that the more specific the question, the more the details on what is being asked, the better (and more helpful) the replies. As you can see, the more information posted, the better the answers. For a failure of the dash HVAC fan, start by checking it's fuse (12 VDC fuse). Next would be to verify 12 VDC to the fan itself when the ignition is on and fan switch is on. There is also a resistance block normally located close to the fan which determines fan speed. They can burn out as well. Any other items that only work when the ignition is on not working-- that could indicate a different problem (ignition switch or ignition solenoid)? Sorry if this sounds overly complicated, but chasing down electrical problem can be time consuming (though very logical), but is always a LOT cheaper than just starting to replace parts. Brett

Herman, Yes, first, I agree that there is not 1% difference in what is being said (the exception being the generator output). Electrically we are all in agreement. But coming from a residential or commercial wiring background, hanko could well use different terms to say the same thing. Not better or worse, but certainly confusing to those not really familiar with discussing 120 VAC wiring in an RV application. I know and apologize for the confusion it has caused others. That is why, in my post last night, I requested that further discussions by hanko on this subject be done by private message to me. I don't mind further discussions and will be glad to invest my time. BUT, I don't want everyone else to leave more confused than clarified. In fact, I am going to close this thread. Please feel free to start a new thread if there are other electrical questions. Brett

One of the prime causes of fan noise is unbalance and/or interference caused by mud dobbers setting up housekeeping on the fan blades. In the off season, I use a cheap piece of fine nylon screen over the furnace intake/exhaust. I just open the door and trap the screen in the door as I close it. Obviously, don't start the furnace with the nylon screen in place! Another cause is that the fans (two-- one for combustion air and the other for hot air circulation in the coach) may have come loose on the shaft. Sometimes as easy as just tightening the set screw. Also, the fan motor has BUSHINGS, not bearings. These can be oiled (I use sewing machine oil). But there is a lot of labor involved in removing it to lube. So, if you are paying for labor, probably better to just replace the fan motor.

Hankso, I think you are letting your particular terms get in the way of what we are both agreeing on. If you like, let's continue this conversation as Private Messages-- not sure we are adding anything to the general group knowledge here. Go back to my first post (or anyone of them for that matter). We BOTH agree that a 50 amp has two hots, neutral and ground-- call them what you want. And with the two hots reading 240 between them, indeed the neutral will only carry the DIFFERENCE in load on L1 vs L2. Terms may be different than the typical house service, but the electrical set up is virtually the same.

OK, for those who want a "blow by blow" description of a 50 amp RV with 120 VAC output generator. The 50 amp shore power is wired/works as discussed above. EXCEPT, insert an ATS (Automatic Transfer Switch) between the shore power cord inlet to the RV and the 120 VAC RV breaker box. Most but not all ATS's are wires so that in the absence of power from the generator, the ATS connects the two hots and neutral of the 50 amp shore power to the 120 VAC RV breaker box. Ground is always connected. If 30 amp shore power, in the 30 amp male to 50 amp female adapter, the single hot of the shore power end connects to both hots in the male (coach) end of the 50 amp (4 prong) shore power cord. When the 120 VAC generator starts, most ATS's are wired so that it takes precedence over shore power. Said another way, the ATS ONLY allows one source of 120 VAC. If the generator is started, most coaches switch the full load from shore to generator. Yes, it could be wired the other way, but NEVER are both shore power and generator allowed to provide power to an RV (no way to synchronize frequency). With a 120 VAC generator, it works exactly the same as the 30 amp male to 50 amp female-- the single hot from the generator connects to both hot leads on the ATS generator "IN" side. Really pretty simple. Been working for decades like that. Brett

Service Information Document ID: 2726426 #PIP4973: Dinghy Towing Quick Reference For 6sp Front Wheel Drive Automatic Transmission For 2011 And 2012 - (Oct 13, 2011) Subject: Dinghy Towing Quick Reference For 6sp Front Wheel Drive Automatic Transmission For 2011 And 2012 Models: 2011-2012 Buick Enclave, LaCrosse, Regal 2012 Buick Verano 2011-2012 Cadillac SRX 2011-2012 Chevrolet Cruze, Equinox, Impala, Malibu, Traverse 2012 Chevrolet Orlando (Canada only), Sonic 2011-2012 GMC Acadia, Terrain with a 6sp Front Wheel Drive Automatic Transmission Dinghy towing quick reference for 6T70/75 and 6T30/40/45 for 2011 and 2012 Recommendation/Instructions: 2011-2012 Buick LaCrosse, Enclave 2011-2012 Cadillac SRX 2011-2012 Chevrolet Equinox, Impala, Malibu, Traverse 2011-2012 GMC Acadia, Terrain With automatic transmission 6T70/75 (RPOs MH2, MH4, MH6, MY9) are dinghy towable, follow owner’s manual directions for proper instructions. 2011-2012 Chevrolet Equinox, Malibu 2012 Chevrolet Sonic 1.8 liter only 2011-2012 GMC Terrain With automatic transmission 6T30/6T40/6T45 (RPOs MHC, MH7, MH8, MH9) are dinghy towable, follow owner’s manual directions for proper instructions. These following vehicles are NOT dinghy towable. 2011-2012 Buick LaCrosse, Regal 2012 Buick Verano 2011-2012 Chevrolet Cruze 2012 Chevrolet Orlando (Canada only), Sonic 1.4 liter only With automatic transmission 6T30/6T40/6T45 (RPOs MHC, MHH, MH7, MH8, MH9) are NOT dinghy towable and could cause damage to your vehicle’s transmission if towed in this manner. These repairs would not be covered under the vehicles powertrain warranty. Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

Hanko, The 120 VAC generator provides power to both sides of the 50 amp coach breaker box just exactly as does the 30 amp male to 50 amp female adapter when using 30 amp shore power. Said another way, the single 120 VAC hot it tied to BOTH hots on the 50 amp side. Brett

Roger, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. There is very little predictability to damage done by a direct lightening strike. I have worked with this on RV's and even more on boats. Lightening does NOT follow a prescribed pathway and do predictable damage. Even when done by a true electrical professional, there is still a little "repair what we know is damaged" and then test for more damage further "downstream" in the electrical system. Few if any electrical technicians would even attempt to give a total estimate until they go through the process. It would surprise me that an insurance adjuster familiar with this kind of damage would not be aware of this.

Looking at Onan's website for 5.5kW gasoline generators :http://www.cumminsonan.com/rv/products/gasoline#tab1 I could find none that are rated for 230 VAC. All are 120 VAC. Even with larger generators, being rated at 230/240 (i.e. two hots) raises a real issue-- the voltage regulators can control voltage very well on ONE leg of the generator output. So, the other leg is either high (if load is less on the second leg than that on the regulated leg) or low (if load on that second leg is higher than that on the regulated leg). In fact there are quite a few discussions on 10kW and larger generators on the advisability of changing from the motorhome factory setup of 120 VAC to 240 which the generator is capable of putting out (again with the problem that the "second leg" far less voltage stable than the one that is regulated).

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Actually, the chassis maker either specs or installs the fan/fan hub. But, as Hermann says, you lose nothing by calling Cummins and verifying who installed the fan/fan hub on your engine. Call them with your engine serial number. Cummins 800 343-7357