wolfe10

Curious, what RV generator is rated at 5.5 KV @ 230 VAC? Or even 5.5 KW @ 230 VAC? Unusual ratings for an RV generator.

Hanko, Not sure of the difference in our explanations. Are there different ways to say the same thing-- of course. Been wiring these things for 30 years and it sounds like you have "been there and done that" too. We agree there are two hots, a neutral and a ground. A voltmeter between the two hots shows 240 VAC. A voltmeter between either hot and neutral (or either hot and ground) shows 120 VAC. Very similar to that in most residential boxes. As you say, the two hots have a common trip pin (called a duplex breaker). And indeed you DO have 100 amps @ 120 VAC. And with few exceptions, RV's are wired with appliances using only one hot, the neutral and ground (just like the lights, outlets, etc in your stick home). Could you have a 240 VAC appliance-- yes, just as in your stick house. In fact, I just pulled a new 40 amp service to a new stove in the house. 4 wire duplex 40 amp breaker, etc. Looking at the 50 amp RV outlet: Both outer straights are the HOTS (generally one BLACK and one RED). Center straight is the NEUTRAL (WHITE). Center round is the GROUND (GREEN). Outer straight to outer straight= 240 VAC Either outer straight to center straight= 120 VAC Either outer straight to center round= 120 VAC Center straight to center round- 0 VAC

Are you talking about RVIA: http://www.rvia.org/ ? This has to do with manufacturing standards and is a voluntary organization to which most RV manufacturers belong. Not aware of any tie to the used market or governmental ties. Member manufacturers affix a small oval emblem stating that their coach meets the standards of the RVIA.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. I assume you are talking about your propane-fired heater. If so, it is easy to find from the outside. Look for an access door cut into the side of the coach, as the propane heater must have air coming from the exterior to support combustion and the exhaust from combustion exiting as well. The only other outside access doors will be for water heater and refrigerator. Brett

Excellent advice, Tim. Use a digital voltmeter (starting under $10 at Radio Shack, Sears, etc) and check voltage at the battery and also at each appliance that is not properly functioning. Fully charged 12 volt battery at rest= 12.7 VDC. 50% discharged= 12.2 VDC. If below 50% recharge the battery before continuing with your troubleshooting.

James, Good advice, BUT, be sure to use safety stands before crawling under and disconnecting or working on any part of the air suspension, particularly a ride height valve. As you suggest, it should lower the coach-- said another way, drop the coach on top of you!

Joe, Two possibilities: Bad batteries-- even if relatively new. If wet cell batteries, buy a battery hydrometer (under $10) from any auto parts house. Check battery SG (Specific Gravity) with the batteries fully charged. Other possibility is a big load, even when you think everything is off. Use/borrow/rent an ammeter and check the positive battery cable for draw when you think everything is turned off. And, not sure of your answer to my "how are the batteries arranged". Is the 12 VDC the chassis battery and the two 6 VDC wired IN SERIES the house battery bank? Brett

Joe, Are the 12 VDC and two 6 VDC batteries the chassis and house batteries respectively? Odd to combine 12 and 6 VDC in the same bank. You either have bad batteries or a pretty heavy draw. Did you check voltage at the batteries? What was it? Brett

Jim, Let's start with the facts first: To determine the correct PSI for your tires, go to your tire manufacturer's Inflation Table for your tire. Look up the PSI using the heavier wheel position on each axle if you have it, total axle weight if you don't. That will tell you the MINIMUM PSI for that weight. Most of us add 5 PSI to that minimum so a few degrees drop in ambient temperature, filling with fuel and/or water, the wife's BIG Walmart shopping trip, etc does not put us under inflated. And, if all you have is total axle weights, you might add another 5 PSI to account for left/right weight imbalance. Opinion: I have my front tires checked for run-out ON THE COACH and brought to under .035". Then spin balanced ON THE COACH. Rears balanced off the coach is fine-- not nearly as critical, nor can they be balanced on the coach. Let us know where you are/are buying and perhaps we can suggest a place that can actually check run-out and balance on the coach. Brett

Thanks for the update. Please let us know what they find.

spooky, Here is the response I got when I forwarded your post to the FMCA Staff: "Michelin simply does not show all the prices for the FMCA program. I think he would have to follow the program instructions -- call the dealer, give them his FMCA membership info and get an estimate."

http://www.fmca.com/...elin-prices.pdf

Welcome to the FMCA Forum. We will need a little more information to be able to give you good advice. What steps have you gone through to conclude that the refrigerator doesn't work: 1. Do you have 12 VDC to the refrigerator? Even when running on 120 VAC, it needs 12 VDC to run the PC board. 2. How long did you let it run? Most take 24 hours to achieve normal freezer/refrigerator temperatures. 3. Any sign of a leak-- ammonia smell, yellow powder? If so, do NOT run it! 4. Have you tried it on propane as well as 120 VAC? As far as repair or replace, it depends on several factors: 1. What is wrong with it? Most expensive is the cooling unit itself. 2. How old is it-- different advice if this is 2 years old or 12 years old? Brett

YES.

There are both air and electronic throttles used on these applications. Check with your chassis maker to determine what you have and how to properly troubleshoot it. One other comment. No diesel engine manufacturer recommends starting an engine UNLESS you are able to drive it a minimum of 25 highway miles. Said another way, unless you can get the OIL, not just coolant up to operating temperatures for long enough to rid the crankcase of moisture, you are doing more harm than good. No way for a diesel to get the oil to operating temperatures except under a load. It could idle for hours and never achieve working temperatures. Brett

Bill's advice is right on. In many cases, you can dismount the pump and turn it 180 degrees. Then use a half loop of flex hose from old rigid pipe to pump on both inlet and outlet. Done many of these modifications. The rigid pipe acts as a conduit for transmitting pump vibration to the rest of the coach. Brett

Yup, #1 or winter blend is critical at those temperatures. Not really an issue for us in S Texas. But, for those who fill in the summer or fall (i.e. summer blend diesel fuel) and will be storing over the COLD winter, add an anti-gel. Virtually every Walmart stocks it-- PS seems to be their brand of choice.

This is from the Banks Power Site: "The refining companies are well aware of the starting problems associated with diesels in cold weather, and they usually “winterize” their diesel fuel by mixing 15-20 percent No. 1 diesel with the conventional No. 2 diesel in cold climates. This improves the volatility of the fuel and reduces the cloud point to slightly lower temperatures. At this point, we should discuss the differences between the two grades of diesel fuel. Diesel No.1 and No.2 are the two common grades of diesel fuel. No. 2 diesel is by far the most widely used since it provides the most energy per gallon for improved power and mileage, and the highest lubricity for the fuel injection pump. Since it is a heavier distillate than No. 1 diesel, No.2 diesel is usually a few cents per gallon cheaper too. Some diesel engines are designed to operate specifically on No. 1 diesel, especially if the engine will be subjected to frequent starting and stopping, but No.1 diesel has several disadvantages. First, it provides less lubricity than No. 2 diesel, which can prove troublesome for some fuel injection pumps, and second, it contains roughly 95 percent of the heat energy of No. 2 diesel. And as we just mentioned, it’s a little more expensive too."

Jim, As with oil additives, holding tank additives, etc lots of OPINIONS out there. Some swear by them, others consider them snake oil. The diesel engine manufacturers say all their engines are compatible with ULSD. Were lack of lubricity to cause engine/injector problems, I would think it would show up in the OTR trucks piling up over 100,000 miles a year long before it would show up in our application. Really haven't hears of massive failures even in high mile applications. The only issues I am aware of are that the seals on some Cummins lift pumps are not compatible with ULSD. Nothing to do with lubricity. Personally, the only additives I use are a Biocide if storing fuel and an anti-gel if storing summer blend fuel into winter. At 157,000 miles no problems. Brett

By verifying 120 VAC to the outlet, you have eliminated power shedding, inverter and other issues. But another easy option is to run a separate extension cord and plug the refrigerator into it-- that eliminates ALL coach systems from the equation. Of course, this assumes that you have verified that the house outlet is wired properly and is receiving proper voltage (120 VAC +/- 10%). Brett

Have you confirmed 120 VAC to the refrigerator outlet with another appliance, test light or voltmeter?

Couple if questions: 1. What inverter do you have? It is true that some devises ARE sensitive to MSW (modified sine wave) vs "regular 120 VAC" which is sine wave. 2. As a practical matter, to see if the electric blanket is a reasonable alternative to your propane furnace, what is its watt or amp rating? 3. What amp hour house batteries do you have? 4. Do you only dry camp one night at a time or for multiple days (i.e. will your alternator be able to bring the batteries back to full charge or will you need to run your generator to restore power used to power the electric blanket)?

Here is a link to information here on the FMCA Website: http://www.fmca.com/chapters/area-rallies/508

Ben, Sorry, no idea. I forwarded that post to FMCA Staff, but they are closed for the night.

Jim, Welcome to the FMCA Forum. The price does not include (as it changes by state) sales tax. It also does not include (as it changes by dealer) cost of mounting, balancing and disposal of old tires. As the price sheet reflects, it is the cost of the tire itself and FET. Brett