rsbilledwards

Insulating the engine compartment for noise. Applying a layer of Dynamat wil help for sure and then the foil faced stuff to reflect the engine heat back is a great idea. Heat in the engine compartment is not an issue here. It remains at a fairly even constant related to the designed air flow through the compartment. There are many ways to deal with heat like fiberglass exhaust wrap to keep it in the pipes on the way out. But that is another conversation.

Ernie that is really pretty and so many choices. Nice alignment job! The devil is in the details for sure!

This is a standard on many coaches all the way back into the early 90's. It is also small. Obviously someone was not paying attention to the details and set the dish to far back during installation. It is not really a big deal to move the dish forward a little bit, after all it is just held down in place with screws. The screws are under the sealant. This project is not rocket science. You will have to be careful pulling the sealant up and not puncturing the roof membrane. You might spend an hour on this project. Once the screws are removed, the unit may still be retained in place with a putty under the feet or base. This requires patience and care pulling up and probing the putty material before it releases it's hold. Once loose fill the old holes so the do not leak. You can use some of that old putty to fill the hole and then some use Dicor self leveling sealant available online at Amazon for as little as 9 dollars a tube, same thing that Camping world get 12 dollars for, to permanently cover that. Replacing the unit in a new spot, to do it correctly, one should use stainless screws, as they will not draw moisture from inside which there is and rust. these can be gotten in small quantities from Home Depot, Lowes or Ace Hardware. Lay down a puddle of Dicor and place the SAT base or feet in it, install the screws and another blob on top of each so they are fully covered. While you are at it replace that cheap vintage vent with one that actually works better like the one Herman has or even better a solar powered one that evacuates 12 hours a day moving or not...many to choose from that work in a multitude of different ways. Good luck

For all Arizona RV Salvage is an absolute joke.... I was there last winter of 18. It has nothing except junk and the telephone follow up and such is the same, nothing or less. I bought a spare water pump and was assured it worked, it did not which I found out after getting back to Quartzsite. They did say return it and they would send another except they did not have the same Flotec 5 gallon per minute unit ot like. They are smoke and mirrors.

Pointing out what may be a known but connecting pieces of PEX together is a piece of cake with the shark bite fittings and they are infinitely reusable. Just be sure to buy the little orange release tool.

Carl, I think that it was intended to be "Discounted Price"... still does not make sense

Yes and all because they would not listen to him as he thought that from the beginning. At least they gave him some time back.

Carl, for us the black tank will last a month but usually we are moving before that time is up. One trick here is that we do not put any paper in the tank and minimal clear water. We then dump tanks at some facility in the area as we move. As for grey water, we are very fastidious about how this is used in the desert. Either we use paper plates or wipe hard plates clean and then wash, same with pots. No solids into the tank. The result is a very clean tank. Here is what I have found, it is the first, less than a gallon that is grey with stuff in it so I collect that and dump back into the black tank. The remaining is virtually clear and that I use to water the surrounding vegetation. As for fresh water replentishment, I carry 4, hard side 7 gallon Reliable containers. I have a 5 gallon a minute pump as a coach house spare mounted in the water department set up to pull water from the containers into the storage system. These containers are stored in the toad and each time we are out we get water as needed. It takes less that 8 minutes to add that to the system. It is far better than moving the coach.

Hey Carl, I have 960 watts top side and a smile on my face every day camped in the desert in January thru May in Arizona and another one every day that I am not plugged it to a park charging me $40 bucks or more a night. The system is self constructed from information gleaned from handybobsolar.com. Read the charging puzzle and then continue for solar 102 and 103. Gypsydan keep asking the questions...there is no such thing as a dumb one.

Interesting this extended conversation on mileage. Driving mannerisms can have a huge effect and the fellow getting 4.25 on a C12 mus really enjoy the power. I will say that it is a real hoot in the mountains when passed by the newer rigs on the flats and that slow considerably on the climbs to just blow by them headed up hill, no 8.5 here. .That said I know of three Safari 425 Panthers that have lifetime averages in the 8.25/75 range according to the Silverleafs. These coaches weigh in at 31,000 pounds gross and one a bit more. Two of these coaches have over 100,000 miles on them. Power is transmitted through an Allison 4000 6 speed. Sorry Carl you were shorted on this one. My coach has only 26,000 miles and is far from being broken in so runs much tighter. It still averages in the 8s with out the modification on. I drive it with the mode switch on all the time. I manually shift in the mountains and frequently pull a 24 foot Featherlite trailer loaded near 8,000 pounds from Colorado to Arizona for the winter. The Allison has had a fluid change to Transyn 295 like fluid, The differential is also synthetic filled. As for the modification, propane injection, metered by boost vacuum is good for something a bit better than 1 mile to the gallon. One gallon of propane is good for a 100 miles give or take some. It is hard to determine here as the stove uses it as does the refrigerator so the results are some what subjective. Think about that for just a minute, 100 miles, give a bit, for for $2.75. Never the less the C12 does not disappoint or need help. It has not seen a hill it does not like. The benefits are mileage increase, (best on the flats) power increase and if abused heat increase. Boost temp gauge is highly recommended. Judicious use is recommended particularly in mountainous country the likes of Colorado and Utah come to mind... The reason it works is that the propane causes a cleaner burn, or a more complete burn of the diesel. Another reason to have it is that it is trick and not common that works, innovation moves us forward. It is not complicated, preset and easy to install. The system I am using has been around since 2000 currently undergoing testing with the U.S.Air Force and Army for fuel economy uses.

Tell your honey she has to leave her wallet in the coach...seriously!

CAll Dave Atherton! Master trouble shooter on this site if you call him. Look in the directory

I will second the Corning Glass Museum,

Depends Carl, if it was spec'd that way...who writes the specifications certainly not the guy mechanicing. Yes he could have pulled the wrong part...Quality Controll comes to mind. You are probably correct not the house builder.

Here is another similar. Friends with older and last Safari/Beaver coach, lost an engine in Springfield, Missouri. Good Sam replaced it complete with NEW engine under extended warranty. DAT shop installed green, at least low silicate anti freeze. Said later that ELC was not covered and no one said anything till after it was done. On the way out of Denver heading up the Genesee I 70 pass they blew an old heater hose as it entered the cargo compartment. Half of the coolant went inside and half outside. Fortunately he caught it on the Silverleaf and apparently did not over heat the new engine. Due to the location, on the side of the road, headed up hill and not being able to do a flush we had to put the same coolant back in it. I eliminated the heater section and ran a hose from the regulator block down to the return below the engine. From the time he called me, diagnosed the problem, had all materials and parts and back together, then headed WEST again was about 4 hours. He had lost 7 gallons of coolant, lucky guy. He will change coolant when he gets home to California I suspect. In addition he had called a recommended tech located 40 plus miles away in Loveland before calling me and mid-day on a Saturday afternoon, a holiday to boot. I wonder what that bill would have looked like?

Reading, this still wondering what the out come was

I am thinking that would be the best way to have handled it if money were not a big issue or a different coach that did it correctly to begin with. What other things are that way on the coach, To me that seems like a "HACK" way of solving a problem. Was that done by an "Engineer"??? B

Rcoon2 You are doing exactly what I would do.

Yea what's with the two different sizes and the larger on the rear????????? OEM or a solution to too much weight in front???????

A standard good quality torque wrench with a long handle under 2 feet will work, but you need a torque multiplier than multiplies minimally times 4 or a 6 foot bar with extension and blocks= WORK. This conversation was in vogue a couple years a ago supplying numerous resources for getting this job done. Many of you have "big rubber" tires, me mine are small by comparison. I have tools on board like Joe, a spare loose tire sitting in the barn and no good place to put it,except maybe up top on the roof. I would mount it on the front of the rig but there is a gen set there. The idiot that designed the cargo door setup on this coach was not thinking at the time so no, one can not get it underneath either.

When I went after the leaks in my coach and what a project, I eliminated many of the nut and ferrel fittings. They make any service a long job when they need to be disassembled and then reassembled. It is easy to over tighten them. This coach only had 12,000 miles on it and would leak down in an hour or so and no noise I could hear. Apparently the chase began earlier by additional wrench work, distorting the ferrels further. I replaced all that I could with "Push to Fit" fittings. These fittings have some limitations not in their ability but as to type. I think this is correct on usage. There are two types of these fittings, one is all brass and DOT approved and the others are part brass or other material and plastic and not DOT approved. The internal seal up it appears, is the same. The DOT rated fittings are more expensive, and a lot more depending on where one buys them. The DOT units should be used where they are associated with rigs having air brake systems. I suspect there is less likelihood of a failure. I have used both as I do not have air brakes and air is utilized only for the suspension. The sizes used are 1/4 and 3/8 and accept any of the smooth plastic air line hoses. By changing only these connection points I eliminated most of the air leaks. I went back later and installed the Source Engineering suspension air flow restrictor valves at each air bag. I just cut a small section from the appropriate line and pushed the ends into the valves and more of the leaking stopped. I can make only one supposition on this as there was a pin hole leak in a section or possibly two I cut out. Never the less now the coach stays up for a week before settling down on his stops. I will add here too that the restrictor valves made an enormous difference in the way the coach handled cornering by slowing the lean.

New territory here for me...Really, the difference between 13.5 and 1,500 is a noticeable difference? Addition of a heat pump/ an explanation would help a lot B

Kay I did not know the ratio of joules to volts Thanks for the tid bit. The only dumb question is the one you did not ask...thanks U.S.NAVY A school 1966

Many, Many places in and all over Arizona on BLM lands if you can there it is allowed. In Colorado many restrictions. Many areas also in Utah it can be used. s it 4 wheel drive as that would limit is used. Cute. I know when I was in Japan in the late 60's they had many little rigs like that and equally large, unlike anything we had in this country carrying enormous loads unlike anything we carried.

For sake of reference the Crown 260s weigh in at 65 pounds a piece and I am sure the Trojan 105s are close. The Crowns are 260 AMP HOUR batteries and should if the charging system is working properly last 10 years or so...that is what I am expecting. They are currently heading into year 4