rsbilledwards

Richard, Terrific, nice attention to detail. What voltage does the heat run on, pump and relay voltage? I like the the looks of the pump set up but think it could be done with one and 4 thermal wax zone valves which operate from the same voltage as the thermostats. Knowing what I learned from building the cabin and the floor height constraints I might encounter in the Panther, have me thinking, how do I.... I think 3/8 pex would work as well, reducing a little of the added height to the floor. Trick would be to find the appropriate pump. The manifolds could be placed under the fridge. The aluminum panels I have seen for 1/2 inch, wonder if available for the 3/8. Did you cover the floor entirely with them. Over all how much additional height did it add to the floor. The top surface of the floor, what is it? Does it conduct pretty well, warm to the feet? Just thinking outside of this box, with an air to air heat exchanger a fan and solar it could possibly be turned into a cooler in the summer during the hottest part of the day...a cool floor.

Look at Collier Seminole State Park 15 miles South of Fort Myers. It was very nice stayed there last March and will again this year. Call soo as space limited

Sorry it was just FYI

Yes additional info on the places mentioned would be nice. We are going to be there NO in late February as we again go East to Sebring, Fla. for the endurance races. Last year a real hoot!!!

Mr. Jim, You are quite right, however the "impact resistant" shingles are another breed and are looked upon by the insurance companies very favorably. I am quite sure State Farm did not write the rebate checks back to us as a favor for installing a new roof. They asked for proof which I had to get...actually in the end they got confirmation from the local roofing company that did the work. I have had metal roofs for more than thirty years and from several stan points loved them. From one point , hail and heavy rain create a pretty loud din. I personally like the look, on the cabin I built it would have pulled it out of the ground enhancing the look considerably. The "Impact Resistant" shingles pushed it down softening the look and size...I am happy, just a Eric will be when he is finished. My point was do the fiduciary homework, more to it than assembling the structure. The long term cost ended making the decision for me. One other long term consideration on metal roofs and of course it depends on the type, standing seam or flat screwed down is that the expansion and contraction of the metal on screw down WILL pull the screws up. It is necessary from time to time, to maintain the screw tightness in order to maintain the integrity of the screw seal to get up there and reset them...Just as me how I know...I learned the hard way. From that point alone the membrane will be a real friend. The edit was to add this. Of course I do not know the type of metal roof being installed but the roof Bill commented on I considered, It looks great. What I discovered upon its delivery was 1 it was not a class A roof, 2 without a layer of DENSDECK under it. Same applied to a 22 gage screw down metal roof. This means it does not have a great resistance to fire. I already had the roof dried in and was not about to put DENSDECK down and another layer of underlayment so I sent it back. Just another consideration to be made..

Do not forget to look at the CROWN line of batteries along the way. Easily gotten in the EAST. b

Looks good and like they know what they are doing...and FAST This is not good for you Hail...dents metal roofs unless 20 gage or better subsequently higher cost...ask me how I know. So when I built the cabin in Colorado I put an impact resistant asphalt roof on it. State Farm wrote me a check. Something to think about. I did the same thing on a rental property and they wrote me another check. The cost difference over a standard asphalt roof not much.

Carl it was in New Orleans, French Quarter

Jim, we have a single induction unit that we use all the time when boondocking, no problem. We do also have a lot of solar that gives a great recharge every day. I have rewired the power from the inverter to power the all the duplexes in the coach, obviously not all at once use. It is a lot more convenient for sure. 780 amp hours 6 Crown 260s 2012 Magnum full sine wave

Herman, the term is relative to age...I am ten years younger than you are, so easier. It is a job of patience and will. I can get the sealant up from around a 14 X 14 in about thirty minutes and about 90 percent in one shot. I used a big blunt screwdriver to work the outer edge all around. Then I cut through at a corner and all the way around at the outer edge of the flange and work with the tool till it begins to come up. It came off the flange plastic easier than the roof. Once I can get a hold of it then I pull straight up and work the sealant at the release point pulling only enough to keep a strain on the material as it comes up. Once you get it to this point it comes up pretty steadily, do not pull so hard as to allow it to pull apart and mostly in one piece. I know if you were standing there it would be completely different. Where the sealant releases on it's own it will be shiny white clean. The remainder is just pickin at and a little acetone. Acetone leaves no residue of an kind and the surface ready to reseal. Mineral spirits leaves a film so wipe with acetone after use.

Boatman1955 welcome to the forum and your new hobby, I will throw my two bit in here as well. Repairing the leaks up top. The simplest way to assure no more leaks assuming the vent covers are sound... Pull all the existing sealant up from the base and reinstall. Once you get it started it will come up pretty easily. Two school of thoughts on this include using Eternabond tape and overlaying the seamed area, body of the vent onto the roof. I like the Dicor self-leveling sealant. It is available online for as little as 8 bucks a tube thru Amazon buying multiple tubes at once. At the same time I would pull all the screws which most likely will have been zinc plated and now rusty from ambient moisture and replace with stainless steel ones. It may be necessary to go one size larger as the wool/Luan may be compromised. Reseal liberally with the Dicore. Allow a minimum of a month before painting as it takes that long for the stuff to dry sufficiently, just ask how I know. Sealing the cap to roof is best done with the Eternabond tape. This tape thru RV supply houses is very expensive. Buying it thru the roofing industry or the construction industry it is very reasonable . However there are Johnny come lately tapes that claim the same performance, not! Buy the Eternabond branded tape, white one side and sticky the other side. The fan vents and height, Yes you can use the sit up in the air and add additional height with the suggested MAXXAIR covers about 12 inches tall. A better solution are the premium fan assemblies MAXXAIR and Fantastic make that are even better with dark colored lids and that when folded down closed are only 5 inches tall. The are automatic, variable speed, push air out and or pull air in and are very quiet. They retrofit to the standard 14 X 14 inch hole. One of the best sources for parts is PPL Motorhomes.com parts superstore. When on sale everything is cheaper than all the other places particularly big ticket items and post is very reasonable. Shop for what you need at Camping World so you know what not to pay and buy online it will save you a wheelbarrow full of money. Please keep us apprised as to the progress we all enjoy it

Ok C 13 in the CC rig 2006 no Particulate equipment runs great S now I get it the one in question, DPF=S which was not in the equation and not in my info bank. Interestingly enough had a conversation with Dwight and he added that Kubota tractors used to be great and now that they too have the particulate management on them they are now very problematic as well.

Are you still waiting for Santa Claus Carl????

Looks good and like they know what they are doing...and FAST Where are the latest pictures of the progress

Stay tuned, I have a friend that bought a Country Coach recently powered by a C13. He has had it now for about 5 months and 3,000 + miles. I will call him and see what his take is on this. He is a fultimer and moves about quite a bit. He is also a Master Tech retired and did not hesitate to buy the coach. His back ground is the heavy machinery/equipment business as an operator and mechanic.

Carl, SMC Safari never used the C13 in question, now a Monaco built Safari may have but I have not run across it. That is likely true for Beaver as well since the C13 came out after the demise of SMC and Monaco bought it. The big engine that SMC used was predominately the C 12 425 and the Beavers received the 455 and 505. C 12 was from my understanding the best CAT built and is still a favored power plant.

Well that stinks! What do we do in the coach? Dish it stinks, at least the customer service part, that is why I am with Direct TV

Heat is an issue or can be an issue= reduced performance. Better to have some air flow underneath. The flexi panels are I believe glued down. You would not want them to have a loose edge, would not stay long. It would be a real pain to have to remove and reinstall each time they were needed. The last time I checked one could buy rigid 100 watt panels from Renoloy for $114, up just a bit from the 100 that I paid last summer on sale. B

Come out West, there are countless places to spend time and no one around or very few.

Here in Jefferson County Colorado, Permits are required for anything and you had best have a wheel barrow to haul in the green stuff. It is just crazy, They even have an inspection sign off line for screwing the drywall up properly...no over screws. It is out of control.

2,500 bucks will get materials for a 4 panel solar system and the dry camping becomes even more enjoyable. The labor is a piece of cake if you are handy. We were gone last winter for 3 and a half months and spent time in paid sites 23 nights as we went from Arizona to Florida and back. What a hoot, one must think outside the box a bit but that makes it interesting.

Carl, You have not an early coach nor looking for seats. Easy for you to confirm. Call any manufacturer of after markets seats and tell them you want to buy a set and when they ask what they are going in, tell them a 1999 Safari Panther and see what they say. You will just shake you head. I know this happens personal experience and confirmed 6 weeks ago with another fellow in Texas that has a coach a couple years newer. He went the cash route. Would love to here you respond to sales person, you know fly on the wall thing. B

And by the way the only dumb question is the one you failed to ask...Have a great trip and enjoy the Holidays everyone.

Here is what I have found when I tried to do this. NOT ONE supplier would sell me a pair of seats!!! Why, "your coach did not come with integrated shoulder belts". This means no matter what you do, the coach was not tested and certified to support the installation of these kind of seats with integrated shoulder belts. For them it is a liability and in this litigious country who can blame them. I just had a friend go through this. His out was buying the seats out of the state he was in, a long drive and paying cash and no receipt. Another way around this is to order for a coach that has this kind of seat, have the VIN the year and maybe even some pictures. Yes you will have to add some structure under the seat area and tie it to the chassis. Please keep us up to date share what you find as I want different seats too! Good luck Bill

Confirming what Rich said. Left is in every automotive manufacture parts structure is odd number is left and even is right. Basics is that one is drivers side looking forward and 2 right is passenger seat looking forward, it is universal in all automotive manufacturing. including the Brits. Just teasing... In the old days the Germaans put a taape wrap on wire harnesses to indicate that that wire went left so old Porsches are a piece of cake to work on electrically.