campcop

I had to do that in NC but when we moved to NM, DMV just took my old NC license and issued a regular operator license, told me I did not need a class A here. Sure wish all states would operate on the same channel......

No parking brake on a MH with the back wheels off the ground either

I know an owner of a 5th wheel who had someone drop his rig off near a lake on a small grade. The rv was left with the front jacks down and the rear wheels were NOT chocked or locked. When the owner showed up he found his rv had slid down the embankment and was almost in the water...jacks on a MH are very similar, a large flat surface on the pad that WILL slide.....lifting the rear wheels off the ground without chocking and blocking is just asking for trouble.....

In NC a class A non cdl is required....I went thru some of that mis information too. But was able to obtain a license without too much trouble but at the MVD they did try to give me the regular CDL test until I raised a question about it. Driving test was a trip around the block. When we moved to NM, was told no special license needed for RVs....

I think those with a shorter MH are getting a tad better but nothing to write home about , just bragging rights at the campfire

We tow a 2013 Jeep Wrangler 4wd. I just put transfer case in neutral, auto trans in park and remove the key...That ' s what manual calls for. I charge the battery for the braking system with power from MH.

Blue Ox used here...

I never start our Jeep. But as noted some vehicles require the engine to be run to lubricate the transmission. I fixed the dead battery problem by charging the toad battery off the MH when running, this prevents the toad braking system from discharging the toad battery.

We have a similar chassis, get between 6.5 and 8.00 depending on terrain and wind..have no trouble towing our Wrangler which is about 4000 lbs. MH weight is usually around 19k.

What slide is it? The one for the bed usually has the slide motor under the bed itself. Usually have to remove a panel. On ours the panel is the whole storage floor under the bed.

What you're doing is changing the speed setting, most likely to a slower setting, that's why it will stop down shifting. I have the same unit, when I come to a steep hill that I know will cause a downshift, I just kick the cruise off, this usually keeps it from downshifting so far the engine is screaming..

I flat flat tow but i have the battery charged via the MH. Simple connection, fused wire from toad battery positive to the battery connection at the 7 pin connector.

Was the issue resolved?? I was under mine the other day after returning from a cross country trip and I found trans fluid on the top and the case was wet also. Not a lot but something to get my attention......

Agree, mine are clearly stamped FORD and made in Taiwan.......The rear wheels will be easier to find the stamp. If its a Ford wheel then you will need to go through Ford......good luck with that..

I had one on my 5th wheel, my Winnebago did not come with a quick connect so I installed one right after the regulator, cost only a few $$ for the parts. Very simple..As someone said, the regulator on the grille must be removed. I installed a shutoff along with a self closing quick disconnect just to be on the safe side...Any decent propane place should have the parts you need.

I tow a Jeep Wrangler, small, fairly light and can go where others cannot

I don't know what state you are from but after reading the troubles you have had and the response from the manufacturer.... "lemon law" comes to mind...

I don't know what your relationship is with your dealer but if they used an abrasive to "fix" your wheels......I think they are on the hook for any warranty issues if Alcoa says their warranty was voided. As far as tire coating, our MH came with that junk on them, that was the first thing I washed off....

I had a similar leak when we first got our Vista and it appears that you have the same type windows. I noticed our leak only in the drivers side window and only found it by chance when after washing the rig, decided to clean the inside windows. I found water in the bottom rail. After searching on a step ladder, I found that the front cap trim that was over the drivers side window had a small gap that had not been caulked with clear caulk...used a clear Big Stretch caulk that does not shrink and will stretch. Problem solved, no leaks after a summer of rain in the northeast.

Just completed a trip across to CT from NM and back. Mileage ranged from 6.4 to 7.5, running at 65mph most of the time (except big hills) with a toad.

The numbers you give for pressure don't seem all that low. If you are really concerned, call CAT tech and ask them what you should be running.

Why would you want to install plugs on both ends of the EMS? As far as I know, these units are not made to be in the weather so they must be installed inside the coach. Its pretty easy to install one, I have installed two now in two separate RVs. I found the hardest part was running the wire for the remote monitor. If its installed right near the transfer box, it should be easy to access should the need arise and servicing them is pretty straight forward with only a few serviceable parts..

One of the reasons I got a mostly white MH

Well..... got the MH weighed and then the front end aligned. The weight was in the OK specs with 36% on the front axle. i could not find a scale that did all 4 corners though. I then had the front end aligned, it was toed in quite a bit out of spec according to the tech. I further adjusted the tire pressure to the present weight, I also have a steering stabilizer on the front and a trac bar on the rear now. I have to say there is quite a bit of difference from the last trip...No more pulling to the left and diving. i even had a few trucks pass me , could still feel them but not nearly as bad as before.

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