wayne77590

Key words: US Credit Card, address in Canada. How many users have that combination that have posted. Just curious.

DH - Dumb Husband, except when husband is using the acronym then it is Dear Husband. DW - (Guess)

I think its time for a white gloved inspection.

Thanks, and will keep it in mind. Right now it is puppy training time and until she has her final shots she can't really go anywhere. Also, sometime after January 4, date to be determined, I'm finally going to get my left knee replaced so I'll be down with PT 3 times a week for about 8 weeks - itchin' to go RV'ing. Oh oh! I think this thread has been Hi-jacked. Sorry RevRichard, Doc. Thank you for your service and a Merry Christmas to you and all your family and friends.

MFPointer, you may want to ask the moderator(s) to shorten your user id to just MFPointer. This is an open forum and anyone can read it, harvest the email and use it. What does your manual say for the sequence to level the coach. One side first, front first, rear first? I would think that there would be some type of safety margin when leveling and it is out of level that much. I have heard others state that they cracked windshields when leveling. I would like to know the name and location of that CG so I can avoid it.

Dean, I never had a problem with the auto level but I did have to re-zero it and it is a painless process. The jacks can be extended and the coach level to reset the level sensor. It is not necessary to have the jacks up and the coach level. Of course, reasonably level is not a bad idea, but just leveled with the jacks down. My method was to level the coach using a carpenters level or equivalent just on the floor by the controller. I would use the auto-level function and then refine it manually. Then reset the level sensor. Do you have the manuals for the 2008 Destination? For your auto-level not working, give LCI a call. They have been helpful with me in the past.

Carl, we are friends, right?

The wood idea is if the shelf should need replacing. The simpler way is as bill suggested.

We are in hibernation now. It is 61 degrees right now at 10 minutes to 5 p.m. Going down to 50˚ or so tonight. Our Crappy Weather - NOT.

Yep! And the same to y'all. No presents please, just send money or CC numbers with date and CCV.

Turkey heading South! What are you trying to say? Oh! Sorry! Merry Christmas y'all!

Dean, one other thing. Use a paper towel or cheesecloth, a turkey baster (don't tell the wife), stir the pump a little with the turkey baster and then suck some out of the pump. Not in the driveway but take the paper towel/cheesecloth to a "safe" area and squirt it on to one of them. If you see residue, rust, etc., settling on the towel you could have a piece of that interrupting the return valve flow. You would have to do a complete purge of the system if that is the case and add new fluid.

Dean, In my previous life before our 2015 Tour 42q we had a 2008 Winnebago Destination 39W. Quite annoying to have that ding, ding, ding going off for miles down the road. I could go into a long long disertation on how we tried to have it fixed, even at the Winnebago service center in Forest City, IA - but I'll spare you that as what I'm about to tell you is long enough. We had this problem for 8 or so years. Don't despair, I'll give you a "work around." Do not worry about the jacks dropping down an inch or so. When they do, it slips the magnetic reed switch away from each other causing the alarm. Each jack as a reed switch and they are all in series with each other. Work around if you decide to do it - no responsibility on my part, just something that worked for us. The jacks will not extend any further than what you are experiencing now. When it happened to us we stopped ever 50, 100 miles or so and check and they never came down any further. That got old, fast. If yours is like mine was, as you walk up the mid entry steps there is the control panel. If you remove it you will see a four pin plug with the red wire being the 12v. At first I would just unplug that plug and the alarm would stop, however with that real thin lauan paneling and soft wood brace the screws did not seem to want to tighten. Tooth picks helped but I wanted a better solution. Follow the red wire. You should find a little box type connector that it feeds to. Mine was loose inside the cabinet. I don't know what that was. Go buy a single pole toggle switch of any kind with a shank length that will fit completely through the hole that you will drill for it, on the face board for the control panel. Make sure you can screw the retainer nut on the toggle switch. I used toggle versus rocker for that reason. Got it at Radio Shack, but that is no longer a viable option since they closed shop. Get some spade lugs that will slip onto the back of the box type connector. Disconnect the red wire from the box connector and feed it to one side of the toggle switch. From the other side of the toggle switch run a wire to the little box connector. Plug the white power connector back into the control panel. Raise the jacks. Throw the toggle switch - no alarm When you get to a CG, throw the toggle switch to give power to the control box. Extend the jacks and leave the toggle switch in the on position. When retracting and jacks are up, turn the toggle to off and go undisturbed down the highway. After a time of doing that I just stopped checking to see if the jacks had come down any further and at a CG I would sometimes walk around just to see before leveling. Hey, worked for me - happy trails. p.s., until set up just remove the plug from the back of the control panel.

Okay, how did you squeeze your belly through the window, just curious. In my MH I would have to go out the fire escape window. All of our windows are the little 6" high or so by inches long. No way to fit through. You were lucky. We don't all expensive Eagles, hee hee! My fob will unlock the latch and the bays. If my engine is running I cannot unlock the bays. Never tried it with the door latch and engine running. I also have 3 sets of keys and one of those is a switchblade type key. Push the key button and the key opens up. The other two are regular keys and with my coach, one key opens all except the dead bolt. The push button on is the one I detach from the key ring (snap on) for ignition. The other two are on rings with one in my pocket at all times and one in Earlene's purse. She will sometime take them out and put them in the car. We wish we had a keypad but alas, no. Cheap, eh? Oh, and the ignition key when we are parked at a CG goes in the cabinet next to the satellite antenna control box. Key down, satellite down, within reason. I also hang a red neck lanyard on the steering wheel. Before that lanyard is removed - Ant down, slides in, jacks up, light check performed, etc.

Awning rods on Amazon are real cheap. Even saw one for $5. Question though, on you MH when the awing is extended is there a little tab that sticks down in the middle of the awning? I am very surprised that you don't have one as if something were to happen and power be lost to the motor the awning would have to be retracted. I sure wouldn't want it to just snap all the way back in without control. Just curious. Heck, get a piece of stiff rod and bend the end about 1-1/2 inch 90 degrees. Bend the other end to make a handle. I'm thinking welding rod or similar.

Yes, there is a kit for the conversion. I used Sats2go for converting mine when I purchased the MH. It cost me about $350 and I think that included the Wally receiver. As Herman suggested, call Wingard. Here is a search for converting to dish

Solid wood - lighter and can be attractive.

Drill a hole in each corner the diameter of the awing rod. Use the rod to position the blocks. Holes should not be a problem for the hard rubber.

I think this has been covered on this forum or iRV2 and consensus was it was more trouble than what it is worth, if at all if it could be done. Someone will come up with some information. My coach has a remote fob for locking and unlocking. It only works on the latch handle lock, not the dead bolt.

I'd still go with a nice piece of Oak for the shelf.

....and if Linda mumbles, you better listen. I don't mind waiting for a trucker to fuel. I have been upset a few times when they are in showering, eating, etc., and leave their truck at the pump. Other than that I don't find the wait that bad - Lord give me patience, AND I WANT IT RIGHT NOW!

As shown by Richard there are a variety of molding for that application. If you are real handy you could replace the whole top as indicated with marble/granite/corian. If it were me and I decided to replace the whole top it would be a quality piece of birch plywood stained and shellacked to match the decor surrounding it. Much cheaper and less weight. Of course, replacing the molding is the least weight.

Jaws2, I had it installed on my 2008 WInne Destination and immediately noticed an improvement on handling. When the RV was totaled by Hurricane Harvey insurance was good and I have one sitting in a box here. I can't use it on the new MH with IFS. However, with that said and an update: Safe-T-Plus now has a steering stabilizer for IFS systems.

Been there done that, used a shovel. Spent the first 18 years of my life in Central Mass., but it was an accident of birth!

Sorry, didn't mean to hi-jack the thread - moderator can move it to where, what or when if they wish.