wayne77590

We are in hibernation now. It is 61 degrees right now at 10 minutes to 5 p.m. Going down to 50˚ or so tonight. Our Crappy Weather - NOT.

Yep! And the same to y'all. No presents please, just send money or CC numbers with date and CCV.

Turkey heading South! What are you trying to say? Oh! Sorry! Merry Christmas y'all!

Dean, one other thing. Use a paper towel or cheesecloth, a turkey baster (don't tell the wife), stir the pump a little with the turkey baster and then suck some out of the pump. Not in the driveway but take the paper towel/cheesecloth to a "safe" area and squirt it on to one of them. If you see residue, rust, etc., settling on the towel you could have a piece of that interrupting the return valve flow. You would have to do a complete purge of the system if that is the case and add new fluid.

Dean, In my previous life before our 2015 Tour 42q we had a 2008 Winnebago Destination 39W. Quite annoying to have that ding, ding, ding going off for miles down the road. I could go into a long long disertation on how we tried to have it fixed, even at the Winnebago service center in Forest City, IA - but I'll spare you that as what I'm about to tell you is long enough. We had this problem for 8 or so years. Don't despair, I'll give you a "work around." Do not worry about the jacks dropping down an inch or so. When they do, it slips the magnetic reed switch away from each other causing the alarm. Each jack as a reed switch and they are all in series with each other. Work around if you decide to do it - no responsibility on my part, just something that worked for us. The jacks will not extend any further than what you are experiencing now. When it happened to us we stopped ever 50, 100 miles or so and check and they never came down any further. That got old, fast. If yours is like mine was, as you walk up the mid entry steps there is the control panel. If you remove it you will see a four pin plug with the red wire being the 12v. At first I would just unplug that plug and the alarm would stop, however with that real thin lauan paneling and soft wood brace the screws did not seem to want to tighten. Tooth picks helped but I wanted a better solution. Follow the red wire. You should find a little box type connector that it feeds to. Mine was loose inside the cabinet. I don't know what that was. Go buy a single pole toggle switch of any kind with a shank length that will fit completely through the hole that you will drill for it, on the face board for the control panel. Make sure you can screw the retainer nut on the toggle switch. I used toggle versus rocker for that reason. Got it at Radio Shack, but that is no longer a viable option since they closed shop. Get some spade lugs that will slip onto the back of the box type connector. Disconnect the red wire from the box connector and feed it to one side of the toggle switch. From the other side of the toggle switch run a wire to the little box connector. Plug the white power connector back into the control panel. Raise the jacks. Throw the toggle switch - no alarm When you get to a CG, throw the toggle switch to give power to the control box. Extend the jacks and leave the toggle switch in the on position. When retracting and jacks are up, turn the toggle to off and go undisturbed down the highway. After a time of doing that I just stopped checking to see if the jacks had come down any further and at a CG I would sometimes walk around just to see before leveling. Hey, worked for me - happy trails. p.s., until set up just remove the plug from the back of the control panel.

Okay, how did you squeeze your belly through the window, just curious. In my MH I would have to go out the fire escape window. All of our windows are the little 6" high or so by inches long. No way to fit through. You were lucky. We don't all expensive Eagles, hee hee! My fob will unlock the latch and the bays. If my engine is running I cannot unlock the bays. Never tried it with the door latch and engine running. I also have 3 sets of keys and one of those is a switchblade type key. Push the key button and the key opens up. The other two are regular keys and with my coach, one key opens all except the dead bolt. The push button on is the one I detach from the key ring (snap on) for ignition. The other two are on rings with one in my pocket at all times and one in Earlene's purse. She will sometime take them out and put them in the car. We wish we had a keypad but alas, no. Cheap, eh? Oh, and the ignition key when we are parked at a CG goes in the cabinet next to the satellite antenna control box. Key down, satellite down, within reason. I also hang a red neck lanyard on the steering wheel. Before that lanyard is removed - Ant down, slides in, jacks up, light check performed, etc.

Awning rods on Amazon are real cheap. Even saw one for $5. Question though, on you MH when the awing is extended is there a little tab that sticks down in the middle of the awning? I am very surprised that you don't have one as if something were to happen and power be lost to the motor the awning would have to be retracted. I sure wouldn't want it to just snap all the way back in without control. Just curious. Heck, get a piece of stiff rod and bend the end about 1-1/2 inch 90 degrees. Bend the other end to make a handle. I'm thinking welding rod or similar.

Yes, there is a kit for the conversion. I used Sats2go for converting mine when I purchased the MH. It cost me about $350 and I think that included the Wally receiver. As Herman suggested, call Wingard. Here is a search for converting to dish

Solid wood - lighter and can be attractive.

Drill a hole in each corner the diameter of the awing rod. Use the rod to position the blocks. Holes should not be a problem for the hard rubber.

I think this has been covered on this forum or iRV2 and consensus was it was more trouble than what it is worth, if at all if it could be done. Someone will come up with some information. My coach has a remote fob for locking and unlocking. It only works on the latch handle lock, not the dead bolt.

I'd still go with a nice piece of Oak for the shelf.

....and if Linda mumbles, you better listen. I don't mind waiting for a trucker to fuel. I have been upset a few times when they are in showering, eating, etc., and leave their truck at the pump. Other than that I don't find the wait that bad - Lord give me patience, AND I WANT IT RIGHT NOW!

As shown by Richard there are a variety of molding for that application. If you are real handy you could replace the whole top as indicated with marble/granite/corian. If it were me and I decided to replace the whole top it would be a quality piece of birch plywood stained and shellacked to match the decor surrounding it. Much cheaper and less weight. Of course, replacing the molding is the least weight.

Jaws2, I had it installed on my 2008 WInne Destination and immediately noticed an improvement on handling. When the RV was totaled by Hurricane Harvey insurance was good and I have one sitting in a box here. I can't use it on the new MH with IFS. However, with that said and an update: Safe-T-Plus now has a steering stabilizer for IFS systems.

Been there done that, used a shovel. Spent the first 18 years of my life in Central Mass., but it was an accident of birth!

Sorry, didn't mean to hi-jack the thread - moderator can move it to where, what or when if they wish.

Quite a traumatic event when you loose a fur baby. I'm sure many have gone through it. It happened very fast as can be read about if you search on Hemangiosarcoma. It was a little more that overnight for Miya. The hospital veterinarian said that if they found the tumor and operated that she would have 1 to 3 months more. Not a good choice to put her, or us, through. Anyone who met Miya raved over her. She was with us 24/7 since she was 8 weeks old and passed at 12-1/2. In Memory: She always had a smile - that's we called it.

Five, sounds good. Next time I need a battery I'm going to ask for one with more AH's. Brett, Yep on all of that. I'm going to purchase on that already has all the wiring. Any suggestions?

Wore long legged jeans today, should have put on my jean shorts. Very comfortable 70˚ today. Here is our daily forecast.

THREE: First was in Oregon and we traveled to Guaranty RV Service Center, Junction City, OR for a major slide repair. The long slide pulled the pedestal off the floor. Guaranty fixed it and did a super job. We were able to stay in their lot with Electric hook up and a shared water faucet for filling fresh water tank. Second was Master Tech RV in Elkhart, IN. We called and were a drive in for early morning and they replaced a slide motor, plus fixed a leak where the AC seal was not making contact with the roof. Had them also replace all the AC seals. Great people, great job. Third is Houston Freightliner. It is an Oasis service shop and every year for the past 12 years I have taken our MH their for its annual physical. The repair folks there go over it with a fine comb and if anything needs fixing they call and get the authorization. I just tell them "Fix it."

I just push the "Auto" button.

I would rather have it on. However, when in hilly country I have to stop every couple hours and run the TOAD engine to keep the battery charged up. Learned the hard way on both a 2007 Saturn and now the 2013 Lincoln. If you don't stop and run, battery will go below starting capacity. Yep, going to install a charge line one of these days. I need to stop and stretch the legs anyhow.

Ken, we were at Racoon Valley in September. Unfortunately not a good memory as we lost our Husky, Miya, on Sept 18th to Hemangiosarcoma. When were you there? Done the Tail of the Dragon on MC. A 28 ft MH is about all it would be able to handle and then going around some of the hairpin turns one could see their own license plate.

I've been on Hwy 30 also - nope - no rv. Also been on Needles Highway. Those that took an RV up that highway probably saw the video of the tour buss going through that tunnel. Tour Bus 1 Tour Bus 2 Inside the bus 1 Inside the bus 2 Malox or similar required on trip