kaypsmith

OK, the base comes in a box with no legs attached, it can be mounted right on top of your slide box without attaching any legs at all. I do not have a concern for accessing the motor through a motor box as the bed does not cover the access inside my coach. Actually I was referring to the diesel coach motorbox, many diesel pushers have a box built over the diesel motor, you must lift the top to access the diesel motor in such a configuration. The motorized bed frame measures from the bottom of the base to the top of the foundation that the mattress rest's on is slightly less than 9 inches, I am using a 10 inch memory foam mattress, and with 10 inch legs, from floor to top of the bed is 29 inches, please remember this measurement is with the bed in the flat position, and of course when you raise the head of the bed this will increase as the head goes higher, and same for the foot end of the bed. The bed does decrease in length when raising both head and foot ends by close to 12 inches. I tried to attach pictures but could not attach more than 5.09 k, less than half the size of a postage stamp, therefore such a picture is useless. I did PM you a message and will be glad to send them to you otherwise, while I try to set up a photo bucket account. Hope my description is not too confusing, will try to clarify if needed. One other thought, mattresses can be bought ranging from 6 to 18 inches in thickness to help with height concerns. Just added shutterfly account "https://kaypsmith.shutterfly.com/pictures/20". Kay

I like the wasp spray idea, and be sure to post the NRA lifetime member sticker in very prominent locations, maybe even a tag next to the FMCA Egg.

Very good point Brett, reminds me of the old days when we installed a cut-out on the exhaust system for a needed short burst, LOL. Of course we already had headers.

Here is the L&P Q&A page: http://www.lpadjustablebeds.com/faq.asp My bed is not controlled independently, both sides raise and lower with only one control. The King size version will have two controls and you will need a split mattress. Yes the bed frame is heavier than just a mattress on top of the motor box, but it can be fastened down to the motor box. A simple rig can be used to lift the foot end and still provide motor access. If he has a memory foam mattress already and is comfortable sleeping on it, can be used on the adjustable bed. I did find special fitted sheets to use on the adjustable bed so we do not have to use suspenders to keep the sheet in place. There are several brands available, but I chose L&P because of support. The bed control box plugs into 110 volt outlet, but transforms to 36 volts, it comes with an auxiliary box that you install 4 nine volt batteries into which can be used in an emergency situation. Yes, I did get a chuckle out of "articulating", as I was thinking about moving right to left. Good luck with your search bobodell, if you have any questions that I might answer, feel free to PM anytime. Just looked, again, and there is a split queen now available, would need to change mattress to split. http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEGGETT-AND-PLATT-SIMPLICITY-SPLIT-QUEEN-ADJUSTABLE-BED-new-ADD-MEMORY-FOAM-/171822350239?hash=item280168ff9f:g:dzIAAOSwpdpVb17E Kay

I don't believe that I have ever seen an articulating bed before, sounds pretty uncomfortable. I do have an adjustable bed by Legget and Platt "the head and feet move up and down", in my motorhome with a memory foam mattress, queen size. I ordered it off e-bay, and have been very happy with the results. My wife has esophagus disorders and requires that she sleep with her upper body elevated. All sizes are available, but I don't know if the shorter RV size platform is available, but I would bet that it is.

If not heard of, Kroil oil, can be googled by that name, will creep better and last longer than any other that I have used.

Just don't let it freeze and burst, this will shorten the life expectancy.

Joe, what is the exact hole size that you will need? That same company has several different ones available. Also, you might consider a stainless steel filler, I have a friend that has helped me out in the past, using 16 gauge stainless steel. If you have the exact size, or you, can make a cardboard template, he uses a plasma cutter, then can polish to a mirror finish, just PM me if this is an option that you want to explore.

I checked the appliance, it states 1800 watts maximum draw, divided by 120 equals 15 amps. This is one unit, and 475 degrees max temperature. 14 gauge wire will run only one unit on 15 amp breaker, or 10 gauge, with a 30 amp breaker for two will be needed. We use only one at a time in the coach and have no problems. Also my wife does stack cook on occasion and that works out very well for us.

The Towmate brand wireless tow lights work very well, most of the newer tow trucks are using this brand for reliability.

Doc Mike, I ordered my set off e-bay, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Magma-Products-Gourmet-Nesting-10-Piece-Induction-Stainless-Steel-Cookware-Set-/172030557851?hash=item280dd1fe9b:g:Ot0AAOSwSHZWcARG this set is ceramic lined, we really love the quality. Also saw a nice set at Costco last week, bearing the Wolfgang Puck name brand, it does not nest and we like the nesting capability of the ordered one for storage purposes in the motorhome. Wherever you purchase, be sure that it is designed for induction cooking if using on an induction cooktop. There is an iron core embedded between layers of stainless steel on the ones designed for induction cooking. By the way, I have never seen an aluminum set designed for induction cooking. As I stated in the earlier post, cast iron works well, we make cornbread in a cast iron skillet right on the induction cooktop. PM me, I will be glad to share how it is done. Kay

In radio lingo, smoke is the magic that makes the radio work, if you let it out, radio ceases to work. Back to the original post, the higher the amp draw through a fuse terminal, the more likely you will see corrosion sooner than the lower amp draw terminals.

We use Nu Wave brand, have one for the home, and one for the motorhome. Fifty percent of the cooking at home is done on one, and about 95 percent while camping. As DD690 said it uses 50% less electricity than standard cooktops, heats much faster. You do have to make sure that the cookware that you use has an iron core so that the magnetism can do its thing. We have a very nice set of stainless steel made for induction cooking which is a nesting set, meaning that everything is conveniently stored within the stock pot. You can use just plain old ironware and it works great. I will also add that the heat is so accurate that even people that normally will only use gas stoves, once trying this method, love it also. If you can use an electric fry pan on your 30 amp service, one of the countertop induction units will work fine.

Hope you sued the gas station, they were responsible for their employee's action. That's why you must use a resistive load for testing, be sure the wattage of the test light is less than the fuse that you are testing.

Lenp, reminds me of when I used to repair rf amplifiers, I used a 300 watt light bulb screwed into a lamp base in the circuit, removed one tube at a time until the lamp no longer lit to find the culprit. Also on later solid state, worked equally well. Kay

If the wood is already finished, and assume that yours will be, I sometimes use a small dob of clear silicone caulk in the hole over the screw head then push the cover into place. I do mean a "SMALL DOB".

Thanks Tom, as usual, well said. Kay

I usually use piece of seasoned oak wood, split down to the screw hole size, tap it in with a small hammer to completely fill the hole, then as Herman says hand screw the screw back in.

I'll be there June 28 through July fourth again, I stay at Creekside in Pigeon Forge. There have been several that have sprung up in Wears Valley, can't remember their names but they are there, also at Townsend the one mentioned above, and the KOA there is nice, though a little pricey. Both of these places can be accessed through Pigeon Forge then out 321. When coming into these areas off of I-40, take 66 to 411, turn left to veterans bvld., turn right past Dollywood, then right on Teaser Lane till you see Belles outlet, turn left at the end of the almost closed mall, this hgy. 321, much easier than going through town. Veterans Bvld is 5 lanes with limited traffic, even when the parkway is hosed up. Yes Bill but the roads are pretty windey.

If you are going to be staying in that area, east of Panama city, about 35 miles, Port St Joe Peninsula is a nice park, a Fl. State Park less pricey than Top Sail, then 25 miles east of there is St George Island, another Fl State park same price as St Joe, but much harder to make reservations this time of year, both can be checked and reserved through Reserve America. If you decide to travel to Alabama, Deer Run RV park north of Troy is a very nice private park that I stay two or three times a year. Also at Eufaula Al., White Oak Creek camp, an Army Corp of engineers park, very large beautiful, over a hundred fifty sites with many right on the waterfront of Lake Eufaula, well manicured, cement slabs on every site, full service. Many happy travels, Kay

Check out bus nuts online "www.busnut.com", and be sure to order "The bus builders bible", very useful information. Good luck with the PD4104, very good looking and good to work with. Last one I worked with, we had to paint the aluminum bottom panels instead of polishing because to many pits due to salt corrosion, painted them a silver metallic, turned out very well. Kay

Be sure to load several bags of the Texas navel oranges and red grapefruit to take along, they are better this year than I can remember in the past. Good luck traveling. Kay

For tax purposes the interest on the loan is IRS tax deductible either primary or secondary. If your state has income tax, you should check there, as it may or may not be according to your state rules. As to whether it is a mortgage or not I really don't know that answer, some other fellow FMCA'er will answer that I'm sure. Welcome to the forum, and happy motoring. Kay

Most heat pumps have a backup element installed and will automatically change over from pump to the electric element at the manufacturers programmed outside temperature. Meaning that it normally will keep you warm at much lower temperatures than the stated heat pump changeover temperatures. This is a question to ask the dealer, and if they don't know, a call to the heat pump manufacturer with the units model number for verification. I use two heat pumps on the roof with the backup elements installed, have camped in temperatures as low as 11 degrees and was still comfortable. Happy motoring with the new unit if the sale matures. Kay

Welcome to the forum! I would look under automotive upholstery in your local Yellow Pages, most competent upholstery shops can do a very good job with making these items look new again. They will have a selection of material samples and can usually match almost any material that you like. If you are not satisfied with present scheme, now is a perfect time to change to what you like. Be sure to ask for references and view work that is currently underway before committing to them starting work for you. Good luck with your endeavor, and don't forget to check e-bay "rv furniture", for pricing of just replacing with new furniture. There are many reputable sources for new. Kay