kaypsmith

Have you looked into Gorilla Glass? https://www.corning.com/gorillaglass/worldwide/en/applications/automotive.html I wrote about it a few months ago being offered for Jeeps, but it may also be ordered for any windshield?

Herman I know this topic is eight years old, but I am still going to respond as to how Alabama arrives at what to charge for a tag on all vehicles except for commercial, that's any vehicle that's owned by a company or any for hire vehicle. First of all, there is sales tax on a vehicle every time it changes hands, state portion of that is 2.75%, then county and city, as much as 1.5% for a total of up to 4.25% depending on the location that the vehicle is tagged in, not where it is bought. Some states like Florida can collect up to 10%. Now for the tag portion, on an RV, the tag is classed, class 1 tag portion is $27.50. class 2, $50.00, class 3 $100.00, class 4 $175.00, class 5 $275.00. Now this is only the beginning, you are now required to pay personal property tax, called ad valorem tax by the authorities, the appraised value is determined by whatever NADA black book lists as retail value of that year and model of a vehicle, or Kelly Blue Book if not found in NADA. The assessed value is then 20% of that value, $100,000.00 would then be $20,000.00. Now the taxing authority collects depending again on location from $15.00 to $30.00 per thousand for each years tag, ie a $100,000 class 4 coach tag could be $175.00 + $600.00= $775.00 in the year that it is worth $100,000.00. A$500,000.00 class 5 would be $275.00 + $3000.00 = $3275.00. Now the good part is after 10 years the value will have declined to minimum value regardless of what NADA or Kelly says to $1000.00, I guess this is why you will only see coaches that are over 10 years old from Alabama, LOL. The parks that don't allow RV's over ten years are probably inclined to turn us away if they see an Alabama tag. Oh well! And the letters to our congressmen absolutely do no good, but this is governors year to be elected, soooooooooo, why don't we start sending letters to those candidates! Thanks for letting me vent, and as Herman said maybe time to start a new thread.

No sarcasm, just fact, have now received it, all I need do now is install it. Only problem that I have is the instructions are a poor photocopy and some of the print is too light to read. I have tried to find a better copy online, and have failed so far. I did lots of research, and decided that this was the best unit for the money. Just have had too many projects to accomplish before this one. You wont believe how long the honey do list is!

6 years, 25,000 miles. Many ways to accomplish this task.

I used a short piece of aluminum angle on each side of the fridge, short metal screws into the sides of the fridge cabinet, then a single stainless steel screw into the cabinetry on each side. It doesn't take a long sheet metal screw, all you need to do is penetrate the outside skin, just barely into the insulation. Or you could be creative and use an L bracket at floor, then secure it at the top with another. Also be sure that you screw the front level legs down to the floor, they are rubber tipped, if yours are not, crutch tips can be acquired at most drug stores, they help prevent movement.

Hmmmmm, I was always under the assumption, that FMC was Ford Motor Corporation. Now I learn different.

Carl, that's 5 ma not .5, most manufacturers use 4 ma just to beat the electrical quidelines, and self preservation. Correct!

Just for understanding purposes, 1 milliamp = 1/1000 (one thousandth) of an amp. At 120 volts that's 5/1000 amps or, 0.60 watts using the guidelines for a GFCI breaker. Not much current, many start capacitors used on refrigeration units will cause a disruption of more than that, this is why refrigeration units do not do well on GFCI.

I think that two different OP's are in play here. Herman is stating what it cost him for a high pressure pump, while Afordeck's problem turned out to be a lift pump, with lots of tail chasing.

Probably not, but the top load would only need to be 1 foot above the root, most AC's are taller than that.

I agree totally with this statement. First, let me say that an AC should have never been associated with a GFI circuit for any reason. If the coach manufacturer installed it on one, it was done so in error. Even the electrical building codes allows for a refrigeration unit to be placed on a basement floor without GFI, no other device, an AC is a refrigeration device. Refrigeration compressors do create an electrical problem with GFI due to its delay equalizing the amperage between the hot side and neutral, this difference is the only thing that GFI looks for in determining when to trip, it doesn't care about over current, only milliamp difference in draw between hot and neutral. Normal difference allowed is only 4 milliamps, anything different is any degradation due to age of the GFI breaker, or a bad GFI from its beginning, and this does sometimes occur. I probably should add, overtripping of the GFI as a reason for shortened lifespan.

The law in Alabama states that anyone riding in the front seats must be wearing a seat belt. The law doesn't apply to passengers behind the front seats. I know that sounds dumb but that is the law. Here is also an article on the subject, they actually suggest the safest way is to have a passenger car follow the RV to it's destination with the children properly restrained. http://procarseatsafety.com/recreation-vehicles-rv.html

Ken says firestick, that is a good antenna, so is a fiberglass K-40 Wilson, the key is that these two are top load antenna's, which does not require a ground plane, the opposition is the lower end of the antenna, which is the other end of a tunable dipole, making it very good for tall vehicles. The top I/3 of the antenna is all that is required to make it work very well. There are also center load antenna's, these are loaded at the center of the mast and are a better choice for shorter vehicles because it is possible to allow more of antenna above the roof line, 2/3 is recommended for a center load antenna. The ground plane version, 1/4 wave must be completely above the ground plane (roof line) and that needs to be metal, or skirted. A skirt can be three rods protruding beneath the load position, this is where the coax is attached to this type antenna, the three rods need to equal a quarter length of the wave length for the intended frequency, which is a total length of 8 feet and 2 inches for CB channel 20 (27.205 megahertz), for this type ground plane which means that you would cut each rod 1/3 of the 98 inches, about 32.5 inches each. A top load antenna is fed into the stick (this is a fiberglass rod with wire wound through the entire length), the coax is fed from the bottom, but coax inside the stick carries the signal to the top of the antenna, which means that it is really loaded from the top down, hence the name top load antenna. The top load antenna is very easy to tune also (get the SWR's) correct because the top end slides up or down on the stick to accomplish tuning. 1.1 to 1 read on the SWR meter is the ultimate goal for the best reception and transmission. Sorry for the long rant, but antenna's is a requirement for us old amateur radio enthusiast to reach out and talk to the world. Kay, N4WQP

It could not have been the connection between the tractor and trailer, they don't go bad.

Maybe go fishing, but with your current luck the fish will have severe lockjaw! Sorry to hear such an unfortunate story, but we can always pray for a better day tomorrow. The last time I had a similar experience, turbo tube had a large crack, I managed to get a replacement overnighted, put it on then headed home, still three quarter power only, after limping home more inspection, the manifold the tube was attached had two large cracks. $2000.00 later full power finally restored. Sure hope that you will have a good ending.

The local Interstate battery sales and rep truck in this area makes a routine check and delivery of batteries checks the dates on their batteries and swaps out shelf batteries for their dealers. Six months and the battery is swapped out, the pulled batteries are then resold to battery rebuilders in this area. The logo is removed from the battery and sold to local battery rebuilders, who does a desulphated process on the battery, then sells to the public at a much reduced price. I sure do not know about other locales, but that's how that company does it here in Alabama. Only reason that I know this is the local rebuilder is a personal friend, and I have been buying batteries for the last 30 years from him.

I have bought 4 from Family RV to date, all shipped, all crated, and arrived with no damage, that was part of their $99.00 shipping cost.

They must build them different for Alabama farmers, fixed on rear, swivel in front, just like trying to back a 4 down toad.

Here is a place that I have done business with for many years, located in New Port Richie Fl. https://www.dometic.com/en-us/us/find-a-dealer/united-states/florida/new-port-richey/family-rv-center-ii-4158-marine-parkway Might be worth giving them a call.

Here is some instructions on adjusting traverse rods, proper adjustment is the best fix that I have found for these type rods not working well. https://www.hunker.com/13413745/how-to-adjust-the-cord-in-traverse-curtain-rods

If trailer is built correctly, then it should not make a difference for stability purposes. Trailer axels are designed for maximum weight each axel and as long as the carried weight is correct for the axel, tires aired as they should be, and the load is balanced correctly then either should be ok. Poorly built trailers, overweight, or incorrectly loaded will not pull well with either one. A tandem axel trailer is usually a little more forgiving in an incorrect load, but there is no substitute for doing things correctly in the first place.

Acme is a great tow dolly, but be sure to unlock the steering wheel on the vehicle, as this brand does not have a swivel plate. Hope you enjoy the hobby, happy tales and trails, Kay.

I thought that I was through with the air bags and shocks this PM, cranked and aired for final inspection, only to find one more air leak. This time it was the Ferrell fitting on the left side, it was cracked and would not stay tight. Have to wait until daylight to finish the project now. I have improvised with plumbing hangers to get extra length in a tight. That is a good link Brett, thanks for sharing.

Richard, do you have a spare tire compartment on your GMC? Most busses have a hidden compartment behind the front bumper, my MCI is there. I had the compartment open checking the condition of the tire the other day when my wife walked by, her eyes got big as saucers and said, you mean we actually have a spare tire on this coach, that's a first.

Herman, one thing that I forgot to mention is to check the rubber grommets on the rods and replace if needed, sometimes worn grommets will cause enough effect to change ride height as much as two inches. Good luck, don't remove those air lines while under there, and of course make sure it is blocked accordingly.