kaypsmith

I am now replacing the four air bags on the drive axel due to one bag leaking on the drive axel. The right front appeared to be having a problem with the ride height valve, the right front would stay high for several days while the left rear sank down. The valve did have a problem because a mud dauber built nest in the exhaust port not letting any air out of the front bags. Turned out the left rear drive axel bag was leaking small amount of air, all six of the rear bags are 30 years old, so time to replace all. Hope the new ones will last another 30 LOL. One other note, one of the best air leak detector is a smoker, he just blows a puff of smoke towards the fittings, then watches for movement within the smoke, please don't start smoking to find leaks, plenty of smokers already exist.

Rich, it is the right one that is set up for rock climbing, it is now corrected. Carl, it's a 2000 model, I did some research and most preferred 98 through 06, due to less plastic. That of course leads to less fuel mileage, darned if you, darned if you don't. I never have used my toads for anything else, so that shouldn't matter a whole lot.

I finally bit the bullet and have updated to a newer 4 down toad, sure hope I don't regret it, but have heard many good things about the Jeep Wrangler as a toad. Found a Roadmaster stow away tow bar on e-bay and won that auction, so am now planning trip to the mountains to find out how well it will work out.

Have you looked at, and or considered a tandem tow dolly, I have pulled the golf cart and the Ford Escape in this manner for a couple of years and has worked well for me. Tongue weight is about 350# and 4980 total being towed.

The picture is not complete enough, nor clear enough to determine what might be wrong. Is the terminal on the far right in the picture positive or negative? Yes on a 2011 the chassis batteries should be 12 volt, which of course means that they should be parallel to each other.

Glad you finally got it resolved, and thanks for informing us what the problem was.

Is it like this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shoreline-RV2050-Round-Floor-Roller-Hatch-Kit/322859943309?epid=1564728285&hash=item4b2bf3c58d:g:XxwAAOSwKQ9Z-uZn

The portable AC's (not a window unit) have a venting system which includes a Hose/pipe that is designed to be fitted to an exhaust vent, they actually come with this type contraption that will fit a window opening. If you used an 8000 btu portable unit, it will cool 8000 on the front side, but will also exhaust 8000 hot air out the exhaust.

Possible that a ride height valve is leaking at a given position, will check good at any other position, or when parked is borderline at releasing in the parked position. While traveling the compressor will keep up with any smaller leaks anyway.

100% agree, I'm sure that yours is a ducted system, should be pretty simple to make or have made an extension to your system.

Hummm!!! Question already answered in the OP.

As DD69 asked, what color smoke? The color will help answer your question.

To run an 8 seer 8000 btu AC unit, you will need to figure 1000 watts just to run it, that's 8.5 amps, you will need about 1500 watts for the starting load, about 12 amps. The exhaust into the rear portion of the coach is not a good idea because of the heat plus humidity factor, yes there is a collector for the evaporator condensation, but the heat alone causes additional moisture after the evaporator. You could vent it to a roof vent or to a side window. The above figures will help in the equation for what Brett has asked for. Yes I have a portable AC unit that I have used in the coach, but I am not hampered with the slide restriction, so I usually just turn on the roof air and use a portable fan to direct the air flow to the front of the coach. On the last trip I actually used one of those portable coolers that is advertised on TV, it helped a whole lot.

Richard, you could add a switch to your radio setup to run on either house batteries or chassis batteries. My old coach had that setup from the factory, my conversion, I only wired it to the house batteries for that reason. The modern computer systems build memory of the drivers habits, which in turn returns much better fuel mileage, as well as shifting data for the transmission. Brett I'm sure can add to these couple of reasons not to disconnect. Oh yes, disconnecting the chassis batteries for a given length of time will reset the computer to factory defaults, and the driver will notice a difference in engine and transmission responses resulting in what he/she thinks is poor performance.

If the unit is adequate size and in good condition, 10 more years isn't really that long at our age. If you are happy with what you have, and are only thinking about upgrading appliances, then if it were me, I would work toward paying it off and enjoying the upgrades one at a time.

I have thought about the dip your car paint product as a protector for the front of car protector. My grandson is in to this stuff very heavily. You can paint the product over the present paint job, with any color you like, it looks great. when he gets tired of the new color, he simply peels off the dip your car, the original finish is undamaged, then he will apply a new color. I am thinking about painting a nose bra onto my car just see how it will work out. You can google the product.

I will add one other thought, if the regulator was moved further to the right to allow the extend a stay, the picture looks like it may have been, don't know if it was or was not. But if it was moved, the outlet tube may have been kinked causing a pressure restriction. Just another thought for verification.

This may be a gotcha, the coach tank is horizontal, the add on cylinder is vertical, it seems to me that the extend a stay should have been placed in line after the built in regulator and then use a regulator at the add on cylinder. Maybe not true, but if the regulator for onboard is for horizontal only, then there may be a restriction there. The flame on the stove may not be as obvious as the fridge because of the size of the flame.

Most of the stars have a driver that drives the coach to their destination, while the star will fly.

I only will use tire width rubber flaps directly behind the rear tires, I agree that those rock shields are really rock throwers.

I have no idea about other safelite facilities, but the one in Birmingham Al., is capable of handling your situation, and have a very good reputation here. I would bet that any larger city would be the same.

I have seen some shields that attach to the tow bar and are clear from touching the car, that is the only type cover/shield that I will use. Carl a lot has to do with the backend setup of the coach, I think that's why Joe wants some pictures.

I hope you meant while not on full hookup. I wouldn't care while on full. I don't like hooking up the honeywagon.

Hermans idea looks great, I would glue some felt to the back side to avoid scuffing the fridge finish. As a matter of fact, I can store my walking stick there and not need to make anything, Thanks HERMAN.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-Steel-Home-Safety-Gate-Door-Bolt-Latch-Slide-Lock-20x50x70mmNewestBITY/183230992929?hash=item2aa96b1221:g:8hMAAOSwUoNZ~Xc These worked well for me, one across the double doors, and one on the side of the freezer portion.