kaypsmith

This is an important step to take into consideration and follow for the lowest possible lift with an auto level system.

What type inverter do you have and how many watts? The newer coaches usually come with a pure sine wave (PSW) inverter and older ones came with a modified sine wave (MSW) inverter. Many of the residential fridges will not work well, if at all with a MSW, hence this is an important question. I currently am using a Samsung with a MSW and it works very well. In preparing for a residential you will need to find a fridge that will fit into the space that the old no-cool is in, or with any modification necessary to make that happen. Another must is to look for a fridge that will require as few amps as possible to work for you, this is because the higher the amps required, the larger inverter and the larger the battery bank you will need. I know that some of this is redundant to Brett's post, but I was typing while he was posting. This is not a plug for homedepot, but this is the newest updated version of the fridge that I am using. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Samsung-33-in-W-17-5-cu-ft-French-Door-Refrigerator-in-Stainless-Steel-and-Counter-Depth-RF18HFENBSR-2/302577277

Great idea! Or you could have mounted a tv under there.

Thanks Herman, I do have the appropriate jack stands, so hopefully I wont have to snap any photos from under it.

Joe that's good to know, the garlic concentrate is mixed with water, then sprayed in a given area to eradicate the ticks and mosquitos in that area. I will try your remedy while working under the bus, I am in the process of replacing the drive axel air bags, fun, fun, fun.

Garlic concentrate is also a great tick and mosquito repellent, especially if you like the smell.

I agree that the hinges and a door clasp needs to be heavier duty. Remember that the screen dimensions on a tv is diagonal not horizontal, and with the fact that the tv will now be attached to the added on door, you can actually use a larger tv than what is now mounted inside the cabinet. In fact I have used a 32 inch led where the 19" crt style used to be, I find that the thinner models adapt very well.

I cruised the inside passage 2007, truly beautiful, I like waterfalls, and there are plenty to see. Maybe someday I can retire and make that journey in the MH. The train ride at Skagway alone was worth the trip for me.

Shame this service wasn't around when the SS Minnow grounded, LOL. Just little joke in case anyone remembers Gilligans Island, had it been, we would not have been able to see all those GOOFY episodes. Mark, I agree the Garmin service looks good for another lifeline.

Onstar is only good as long as you are within access to a cell phone tower, their coverage only seems better because they contract with several carriers to use their service, so no cell coverage by a contracted vendor then no service, as opposed to satelite coverage. If satelite coverage, just make sure that you are under the clear sky.

I did not know about this service before your question, have never used it but I am familiar with satellite communications. This plan is the least expensive that I have seen so far according to the current pricing. https://explore.garmin.com/en-US/inreach/ The service consist of text messaging as opposed to voice technology which should be very efficient, and especially good for emergency situations. The use of cell towers is of no concern because with satellite technology the only requirement is that the antenna for the device will only need to be under the clear unobstructed sky, using the multiple satelites that is used for tracking your GPS. The satellite system does not know your position, it only feeds the programed map within the GPS device with necessary coordinates to guide you through the installed map within the unit, which in turn can transmit your position to the satellite. Text data does not require nearly as much power to transmit through the ionosphere as voice, meaning that the device can be much smaller and not require as much power as voice. So technically the system I believe will work well for emergency situations, or business that can afford to invest in a more foolproof type of communication. My thought is that I hope this technology will prove to be successful, and I am going to test drive for myself and my company.

I personally don't like the noise of the engine in the front, maybe that has changed, I hope so, also the driveshaft length concerns me, and or rear end overhang. I believe that the parking brake is a driveshaft drum mount.

In all likelihood the box in your picture is the only junction box for your coach because it contains both 12 volt and 240/120 volts. Though I doubt any 240 volt devices, the main breaker in the center is 240 volts, that's where L1 and L2 are split to provide 120 off of each leg of the main. Be sure to include the 12 volt and 120 volt terminals on your inverter. The rooftop AC's are joined with wire nuts in most cases to pigtails that are supplied by the AC manufacture, and are usually taped pretty well to avoid them unscrewing, also the AC pigtail and the wire from your circuit breaker should both be copper which means they are similar metals and are less likely to have expand because of heat and shrink. The metals in those junction boxes are usually brass with metal screws, all dissimilar metals which have the heat and shrink possibility. Just one other precaution, never ground any 240/120 device or junction box to the chassis of your coach, that grounding must be handled at the CG pedestal or if at your home the same applies, neutral and ground are never bonded after the main entrance of the power source. If this situation arises there is possibility of electrical shock, or tingle if someone is standing outside, especially if in wet conditions, and will cause havoc with LED lighting and instruments that rely on your 12 volt system for 12 volt negative.

During the building stage of my coach, I used this same configuration and is still in place with the addition of an IOTA brand ATS. I did this as a backup system in the event of the ATS failure. While installing the ATS, I tinned all wires, dipped them in NO-LOX and tightened them. Now I do a six month retightening scedule on both the ATS, my inverters, converter, and the breaker panel, I am in the eigth year with no need to use my work around, "knock on wood". The manual system will work great, but I enjoy the comfort of not having to deal with another chore. And of course I do turn off the AC units when the ATS is in the process of changing over.

I was in the middle of asking to whose and what standard does underpowered apply when Window10 decided that I needed an update. Anyway now 3 hours later the computer is now back up. I went to Pigeon Forge Tn., last year and was on that long hill up the parkway just after leaving exit 407, when a nice looking American Eagle passed me, I was in third gear, about 40 mph, as the Eagle passed I noticed on the rear of his coach there was "Powered by Cat 600HP", no wonder he passed like I was sitting still. I went on to the CG, setup my rig, an hour and thirty minutes passed, the Eagle pulled in beside me, the driver got out and I introduced myself and offered assistance if needed. The driver looked at me and said to me, how long have you been here, I could have sworn that I passed that coach close to I-40. I said back, yes you did, I have been here an hour and a half, you must have stopped and ate lunch. He smirked back the only lunch was sitting in traffic, I can't believe you have been here that long. Go feel my 335HP Detroit, it has already cooled down. My thinking on underpowered is not how fast you get there, but how smart did you get there.

If I am reading the post correctly, there was not a TPMS in place at the time of the blowout, it was added at the time of the tire replacement. Another example for reason to have a TPMS in place.

Is the accessory plug on house batteries, or chassis battery?

Here is another possibility. http://workhorseservice.com/product/w20-22-rv-chassis/

What a shame, I have been staying at St George Island Florida State Park for 13 years in a row. Reserve America is the only to reserve at that park now, you can only book 11 months in advance, and I started 11 months to the day in advance last year, no sites out of 58 available at 12:02 AM. I tried several times during the year, hoping for a possible cancellation. None occurred during the entire 6 months afterwards. So I finally booked at a very nice campground on the mainland looking across the bay at the campground of choice, and had a very good stay there. While at the campground that I stayed at, a TT pulled in two sites away, it was one of the campground hosts from St George, in talking with him I learned that the campground is currently half filled most of the time. Here is the reason, many people are using bot programs to reserve prime times at the campground, and do so within seconds of booking times, many of these bookings are for the same person using ficticious names, but with the same credit cards. Now if you book and cancel within 48 hours of booked date, the park will refund all but one day stay for that booking. My suggestion to him was to change the policy of refunds to only happen in the occurrence of storm occurrence at the CG during the booked dates or a life threatening happening for the camper, and only with a doctors statement. Probably won't happen, but here is my start for a campaign to end such practices, with many letters and e-mails to Reserve America, any and all from fellow members will be appreciated.

Thanks everyone, finally found it. I was parked next a coach with an FMCA egg on the back, I wrote down the number, he left before I learned how to look him up, so now have looked that number up, and the directory says the number does not exist, oh well maybe next time.

When I go to the dashboard, membership is on the top row, the pull down has no mention of members, have used IE11, edge and chrome, none of these show a way to look at any member, except my own.

Not to disagree with bill, but 3M makes an upholstery glue, it can be purchased at most automotive parts stores, comes in a spray can, it is semi contact adhesive. You spray it on both cloth or vinyl backside, also on the substrate, let it dry, then start working the material into place, be sure to follow the directions on the can, they are critical for a good job.

Thanks.

Still trying to put a name to a FMCA placard #, search tells me nothing, about where to look for this.

Not sure if this thread was intended for the TT section or not, but I have a response intended for TT's. I'm reasonably sure that there is also a speed rating on TT tires, and I would bet that it is not 80+ MPH, I have fifth wheelers especially pass me on highways that I usually drive 65 to 70 on, some are moving 80+ MPH I feel pretty sure because they pass like I'm sitting still. Many times I pass them on the side of the road with a blown tire.