kaypsmith

Do you have a hot water heater bypass installed in the coach, if so be sure to check that those valves are turned correctly.

Here is the link Wayne. https://www.amazon.com/AMAKE-Connector-Amplifier-Receiver-Broadband/dp/B01HQ2E8IY/

I wish you luck fighting them. Check your states Lemon Law, and hold on to any and all documentation regarding that particular problem, then go for it.

Which Verizon MiFi hotspot do you have? I have an older 4510 which Verizon has told me that the service to it has been downgraded to 3g (this stinks). I also have 7710 that I acquired about a year ago, this one flies! I am in the process now of discontinuing the 4510, don't need that extra $20.00 monthly for a dead horse. An external antenna will help, I added a $20.00 one that suction cups to the window of the coach, it has helped a great deal.

That was/is a great coach.

I knew of this Fleetwood system, but thought that they had discontinued it 10 years sooner. The original setup, did not have the newer electronics, could only use second AC with generator running.

I could devise an old style crank, or a pull rope to turn the mechanism to let it up or down, mine uses sun gears and that is what I'll do when the motors go bad. Ribs are on the Traeger as I speak, yum yum!

"I've read a few posts on the toad needing brakes. How about if using a tow dolly with surge brakes? Is that sufficient? I can't seem to locate any info on that. Thanks." Here is a link that may help about the tow dolly question. https://cartowdolly.com/acme-tow-dolly-review-from-a-canadian-friend/

Joe, the one that I sent a link to is 38", just 1" each side, she'll never miss it, and I'll pay half, just to get you back in the house.

The checkvalve that I am referring to is an add on, it is placed after the pump to keep backpressure off the pump, if the plumbing is pex, there are pex checkvalves that only need to cut the pex line after the pump, make sure the arrow is pointed away from the pump. This will keep any back pressure from the coach plumbing back to and through the pump, thus eliminating any excess pressure on the pump. This way the very pitiful checkvalves that are made into the pump do not need to over exert themselves from trying to keep back the over pressure which in many cases happen because there either isn't a pressure regulator, or it is faulty. I've used this method more than 30 years, and never had a problem with a pump allowing backflow to the tank. Yes I have lost pumps because of them just wearing out, but no fresh water tank over flowing while on shore water. And switching valves can certainly go bad causing the tank to overflow, but turning off the shore water will surely stop this. If the method that I described is used and the pump cycles, there is a leak somewhere that needs to be found. I once saw a unit that had such a leak, the owner didn't believe that there was one, he just kept replacing pumps, a year later he was replacing plywood flooring that showed where the leaking water was puddling. By the way the pex (sharkbite, gatorbite or whatever brand), fittings need only to make sure that the cut is clean, and burr free, they are push in style and rely on an o-ring to seal.

Joe, Check this out. https://www.ebay.com/itm/CAREFREE-OF-COLORADO-POWERVISOR-III-ELECTRIC-RV-SUN-SHADE-ZH0388948L-48-x38-NEW/401314757855?epid=1045990289&hash=item5d70393cdf:g:CBgAAOSwIwhWS439:sc:USPSPriority!35023!US!-1 Maybe!

Ray, you can reverse the wires anywhere between the motor and controller and will take care of your situation.

How can a vehicle be towed 4 down with the parking brake on? Either you must place the parking brake off at sometime in the procedure, or you will burn out the brake or tires or both. Welcome to the forum, not trying argumentative just thinking out loud.

Yes to that part of the question that I quoted, but no to that model. Now to address the rest of the question, you stated that the old one leaked 50%, and now the new one 1/4 (25%), so it would be strange that replacing the pump only slowed down and did not stop. It does seem as if both pumps were by-passing, or flowing back the check valve on either pump IMHO. Do you have a pressure limiting device on your coach? If so what pressure is it set to, or is it one that is preset? The checkvalve that is built into these pumps are no more than a rubber diaphragm and over pressure from the fresh water system can cause them to leak backward. I personally prefer to add a good quality checkvalve into the plumbing just after the pump. Remembering that the arrow (flow direction) is pointed away from the pump. Inline checkvalves can be purchased at any plumbing supply, or most building supply box stores, very inexpensive. Question #2, it is possible that the manual valve is failing, but does seem unlikely since two different pumps, and this is still occurring. You could remove the line from from the valve to the tank and let it drip into another container, if that puts water into another container, then that probably is the problem. I was slow typing, so DD69 got ahead of me, sorry for the redundancy.

Joe, mine look similar, they are carefree of Colorado.

What you have described 10 gauge with the fuses at each end will work just fine. Only thing that I would different would be to use 10 amp fuse instead of 20, and as an added precaution I would add a 10 amp diode at the toad end just after the fuse, and make sure that the current does pass to the toad, if backwards, no current will pass in that direction. I am also wondering about the age of the battery that you had to replace, a bad cell will cause things like the fire to happen.

Have you replaced or unhooked then rehooked the house batteries in the coach lately? The LCD is most likely powered by the 12v house system. If you can get to the back of the panel, unplug both 12v positive and 12v negative, wait 5 minutes, be sure to plug the negative wire back first, and make sure that it is replaced correctly, then plug back the positive. If it were windows, you would hold the ctrl key, then press right arrow twice to correct it, LOL.

I have velvac mirrors that look very much like the posted website mirror, except there is no setscrews on the cover where it attaches to the coach. There is a 3/8 machine bolt with 9/16 head underneath that cannot be seen unless you bend down and look upwards, this holds the mirror arm on and in place. I have to remove that bolt and lift the entire arm with mirror head, the electric wires have a quick disconnect that you pull out with the assembly. With this removed, simply grasp the chrome covering and pull straight out, this gives access to the bolts/screws that hold the mounting bracket to the coach. If this is like yours, I hope that it helps in case you are not near a Thor repair center.

Thanks for letting us know what to call you, my name is Kay, like the boy name Sue, makes us mean old men, LOL. The big question would be, would you remove it for $550.00? That being said, will the salvage yard let you remove it for a reduced price?

Since it is like the one pictured, if there is a starter relay, it may possibly be the one that you described under the dash. Using a volt meter, or a light bulb test, turn the ign. switch to start position and look for voltage on both sides of the relay. But most later models do not use a relay since there is such a small amount of current required to activate the solenoid. A mechanics start is simply a button with two wires attached usually with a clip lead on each wire, one side is hooked directly to a 12 volt power source, the other is attached to the small wire terminal on the solenoid. When you push the switch, it will activate the solenoid and cause the starter to work. If this is intermittent, then the problem will be within the solenoid or starter. If it works correctly, then go back to the ignition switch, or relay if there is one. Just please use all safety precautions when testing.

Ditto...…………………………………………………………………………..

A tornado has much different characteristics than just a straight line wind. The sudden lowering of pressure does far more damage to structures like buildings, homes, motorhomes or anything that is hollow inside with large volume of air space. It acts like a giant vacuum cleaner in reverse, it works outside as opposed to inside. Buildings and the like are literally sucked apart rather than just wind blowing against it. I do not want to be in the path of a tornado if it is possible not to.

Does your starter look like this? If so the solenoid is that protrusion on the starter, all you need is 12 volts to the small terminal to start correctly, and this will only happen when the ign. is turned to the start position. See Brett's post above.

Here is a link on solar (12 volt) reefers back in 2016. And if one wants to use an AC refrigerator these days, inverter technology is the best way to go for sipping electricity.

I believe that the ignition switch is his meaning. You could use a mechanic starter switch to test that theory, if it works correctly then the switch would be the most likely culprit, as long as there is no other relay between the switch and the starter solenoid.