kaypsmith

If the engineer that designs the chassis is worth his salt, this is where the pivot point should be. Not always so, because of the design, but halfway between is the best place to put the pivot point, if designed this way, it takes half the drag off of the tag assembly at maximum turn radius, which in turn helps to relieve undue stress on the tag assembly, which is the major cause of those breaks that happen in some tag assemblies

Like Brett's description, except just a little different, I used a 50 amp breaker box, from which, both air conditioners are each on 15 amp breakers, electric water heater on a 15 amp, then a 30 amp breaker for most other items in the coach. The second breaker box is 30 amp with more breakers inside to feed everything else in the coach. The 30 amp breaker in the main box is wired to a 30 amp ATS as primary power to the second breaker box, the inverter feeds the side marked generator. If shorepower fails or generator is not running, the inverter now kicks in and powers the 30 amp box.

Carl, I prefer china over the plastic ones 8 out of every 7 days in a week. Richard, I have never had a problem either, although I do use Carl's option about every three months also.

Wow, glad the EMS was looking out for you. Last time I saw that happen was in a courthouse on a call about a printer slowing down, then speeding up, I placed the vom probes into the outlet and read 189 volts, unplugged the printer and went to opposite side to check voltage, same reading. Power company told me that I had to have a bad vom. I told them no, have tested with both analog and digital, same reading on both. 30 minutes later bucket truck pulled up, I watched the worker hoist himself up to the transformer, put his wrench on the neutral lug and twist. The vom's dropped to 125, then the worker came inside to tell me that I was a liar, I had witnesses to verify my story.

My thought would be that they are concerned that there may be a chemical that may shorten the life of the working parts of the pump, and possible o-rings in the system.

I worked for what I now have to be able to enjoy my retirement. With that said, if I ever retire, I will go full time. I told both my children that when I'm gone, they will still be on their own, as they are now. I have seen a tag on many coaches that read "Spending my childrens inheratence so they don't have to." I plan to put one on mt coach when the sticks and bricks is sold, not too many years from now.

Herman, I agree and now the mystery is solved. Great job tngleim, persistency pays, now go warm up!

Brett, I agree, most that I have driven usually have the shorter turn radius because of less drag while turning. The steering radius of course is designed that way, not really because of the fact that the tag is steerable makes it that way on it's own, just the design by the engineers for their many reasons. My coach has the liftable tag with a 45 degree turn radius, I can hardly tell any difference tag up or down for turns other than when I am on turf, I can certainly see the scuff marks from the tags. According the driver manual for my coach, the tag lift is mostly to be used when I need more traction, and I do use it in some campgrounds to keep from causing damage to the pavement. Here is the link to the steering specs on your Tiffin chassis https://www.fcccrv.com/chassis/xc/front-suspension/ it is also 55 degree, so with this info you will know that the steering radius is equal for comparrison purposes. Have you tried to locate the same model Entegra coach near you that you can look at and maybe drive, or have the owner demonstrate it to you?

Some of the tag axels are also steerable, this feature makes for even shorter turns. Also Spartan chassis normally has a shorter turn radius than most others. Spartan makes the largest number of fire truck chassis that are produced in the USA, and in a lot of cases uses the same technology in their coach chassis. Hers is the spec sheet for that chassis http://www.spartanmotors.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/2017-Entegra-Anthem-Spec-Sheet.pdf 55 degree turn radius is pretty good, in my opinion.

Probably just the light, or just the way it looks in the picture, but the one on the left on my monitor appears to be slightly discolored and not the same texture as the one on the right. Have you used your volt meter on the start solenoid while someone else tries to crank yet? And also verified that there is voltage on the big lug on the input side of the start solenoid?

Herman, the OP asked where he could get those 8 point torx bits, please look at my post carefully, I tried to answer HIS question correctly. Thanks, happy traveling all.

I think that the OP referred to the fact that some batteries were relaced, then the gremlis began, most likely a short occured at that point and now the fuse replacement begins. I sure hope that all is well when the 200 amp fuse on the left side is replaced, but if not then all other fuses will need to be checked after that move. I also noticed that the washer under the nut holding the cable to the the left side appears to be crinkled, another sign that a short, or at least a posible touch of battery cable to the wrong post.

I was not arguing with Ross, only pointing out that torx is 6 and 12, and that the bits are available for those type screws. The four sided bits are called screwlock bits, and yes since they are four sided, they will inherently fit an 8 sided screw better than a six pointed torx driver bit, especially since 4 is a direct division of 8. You might notice that the four sided bits are slightly beveled from larger at top to smaller at the bottom, while the matching screws have the same bevel for the purpose of making them hold to the bit better. If they are different bit sizes for the spider screws, the dealers that list them are only showing one size bit for sale. Here is a Lowes page for headlock bits https://www.lowes.com/pd/FastenMaster-2-Pack-2-in-Headlok-Spider-Driver-Bits/3849987

Ditto Joe, also make sure that your cable hookup coax wire is good, I have had those go bad and still get reception partially, or as described snowey. Make sure that any replacement is RG6U, anything else is destined to show a poor picture.

Sure looks blown, if you have a volt ohm meter, place the meter to read ohms, place one lead on the right side, the other on the left, on both of those fuses, the one on the right should read zero, if the one on the left shows any other number, it is blown. I'm only adding this to the post for demonstration of getting used to reading an ohm meter for the purpose of using a vom while troubleshooting, very simple test for continuity that helps overcome visual inspection.

Those 8 point screws are actually called headlock screws, and the bit to use is called a spider driver bit, apparently they only come in one size. Fastenal lists them, many others do also.

Blake, the tank is looking good, almost reminds me of the fill tank on the bus, it holds 7 gallons reserve, has it's own electric pump to send the fluid to the 2.5 gallon overflow tank that is between the two radiators, one on each side of the coach. I forgot to mention that the fill tank is just inside the motor doors with a fill hatch about 40 inches from the ground that is large enough to pour right out of an open top bucket, I would sure hate to use a red solo cup for filling either.

One of the best places that we go that a toad is not a necessity, is Pigeon Forge Tennessee. The trolley service is great, the CG that we stay at has a trolley pickup every 30 minutes and we have learned how to shuttle to many places around the towns, PF, Gatlinburg, and Severeville. We do carry a toad everywhere we go, but would be able to go there without one anytime. I'm sure that there is many other such places, just haven't looked for them.

Mark, the water just continues to fill the tank as long as pressurized water is available, as soon as the temp drops below the threshold setting for the tank to start reheating, that begins to happen, which means that the water will start getting cooler until you are uncomfortable. This may be 12 gallons or more because the heated water is mixing with the cooler water. Then the recovery time actually begins. In Richards case that is about 15 minutes, others may be slower or faster. I have 80 gallons fresh water on board and use an electric water heater, 5 gallons, the wife and I can shower one behind the other and have comfortable baths. Yes, we are conservative bathers while on the tank, but when fully hooked up, we tend to stay somewhat longer, and still have never been too cool.

My hats off to you also bkv, the idea of renting on the first time out is a very good choice, it will get you used to handling the coach, especially if you have not driven a large vehicle before. Wishing you many happy tales and trails, Kay

The ones that say don't lock steering does not have a swivel plate for the car to rest on, the car must track on it's on steering assembly. The ones that say to lock steering does have a swivel plate, the car of course is able to track because of the plate. You do not need or want double swivel because it will allow the car to turn too sharply, causing it to wander. Hope this helps, and welcome to the forum.

Actually, after looking at your original pump set up, it already has what appears to be the correct fittings for your new pump, those water hose looking ends which are already at 90%, you could take and cut the feed hose from the tank 3 or 4 inches before the elbow, cut a very short piece of it out, then take the filter and the short to a box plumbing store. Find the correct barb fittings to fit the pump pipe threads, attach the two barbs, of course making sure that the flow is correct on the filter, two new hose clamps on each side of the filter. Hopefully this will end your worries.

Jen, the filter does not have to be attached to the pump, since this is a concern, why not put an elbow next to the pump then plumb the filter after the elbow, much easier than modifying the wet cabinet. The filter is in front of the pump only to keep any granules from harming the pump, so make sure that the piping is free from any of that between the filter and the pump. Also an extruded pipe street elbow can gain you some room.

Jen, in looking online for pictures of the seaflo pump, I notice that when looking at the pump from opposite end of the motor, there is an arrow that points away from the pump. If yours looks like that, make sure that the filter is on the opposite side from where that arrow is located, and that the tank side for water supply is connected to the filter side. If it is not connected in this manner it is plumbed backward. Any arrow that points to the pump head then that will be the filter and tank side. Also make sure that the electric supply is connected correctly, ie + to + and - to -. This pump is the closest to yours that I could find a picture of that you can see the arrow on, looking at the right pipe fitting you can see the arrow that I am talking about. Also please note that the fittings do not look like regular pipe fittings. This may require a fitting that uses a rubber washer much like the fitting that that attaches the water supply line to the bottom of your toilet tank. A regular pipe fitting is not compatible with this kind of fitting, making for a sure air leak. If you are sure about the fitting type, you can take the pump to a plumbing supply store for advice.

Carl, you would be right at home in my bus, 6'10" head room up there also. Richard the updates won't hurt the antiquity of the coach, the outside shows that. Anything done inside just increases the value, and you can use the update date for those snippy people with the 10 year rule. LOL