kaypsmith

Dont know what you are really looking for, if a park doesn't have Wi-Fi, cell service, or cable TV, it is hard to improve on that fact. The device that you are asking about does not provide any of the three, only a claim that it will boost the signal of possibly a hot spot connection. As Richard pointed out, knowing the location of a cell tower can make it easier to boost that signal, and the reviews of the questioned antenna would make that easier because it appears to be omnidirectional, meaning that IF it sees a signal then it will boost that higher. The same device will improve your cell phone also if you purchase the model at double the price, again, if it see's no signal, there is nothing to boost. Yes an outside antenna can be better for a RV'ers reception than depending on the devices internal antenna while inside the RV. By the way, Welcome to the forum!

Good to know that others has a pet peeve. I also watch tires, but my favorite is looking at the tow bars that pass on the different roads, and betting with my wife about how much that person complains about something wrong with their toad. Only 3 out of 10 are properly adjusted so that they are actually parallell with the pavement, I dont count them out if not more than two inches out.

The air pressure in my coach will not start making air again until it reches the cut in point of 89#, and then reaches maximum of 125#, it shuts down again. To overcome this when extra air is needed, I have a bleed valve installed for the reason of making the compressor start back to making air, I have a pressure gauge mounted just after the relief valve to monitor when to release when needed. This way, I am able to air up to about 120# tire pressure without much problem. One other simple way is to install an auxillary tank after all others with a fitting to attach a hose, and install a check valve on the air entrance of that tank, this way it will fill to the maximum air pressure that your system will and will not bleed back down unless you draw against it, of course you will still need to work your system so that maximum pressure is retained untill you are finished filling tires, although the system will work well for just topping off a tire.

We hsve four that go with us on most occasions, and when walking them, they are not allowed near another persons camper, auto, tow dolly, or anything else that is personal belongings to another human. But we often observe the behavior that you are describing and make comments to unresponsible pet owners also. This type behavior is what causes more and more rights being lost everyday.

As you already understand, weight is the critical key element. How much weight is the DP capable of towing, and how well is the weight distributed in the trailer will be key factors in deciding what needs to be corrected to give the best results. In addition to Carl's questions. Also will be helpful to know what is swaying, just the trailer, or both DP and trailer.

Seems that most of your ducks are in a straight row. My concern probably would be storage capacity, you have 4 6 volt batteries, unknown to the rest of us what size in total amp hours. The ability to recharge them sounds pretty good, but trying to figure run time can be deceiving. The sun is only available 8 to 12 hours per day in most areas, and for that reason, I would also include in my calculations my battery bank requirements to figure how long will I be able to run lights and appliances during off hours also. You may want to add some batteries to your list also. Good luck with the project.

Maybe you can find an answer here, https://rosap.ntl.bts.gov/view/dot/27184/dot_27184_DS1.pdf? , I don't have enough time left to read it all LOL.

Here is a link to the manual. http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Inverter-Chargers/Freedom-458/Freedom458(445-0193-01-01_rev-2).pdf Good luck.

Just follow the link above, Amake I think is the brand, I have have spent money on several others and actually sent most of them back that were much more expensive, this one worked out of the box as advertised. I work with much more expensive units, commercial, that work well, but are not portable enough to say that do help, but this one actually did. Herman has such a unit, not sure what brand that his is, but he tells me that his works also. He lives in an all metal house in the country and his signal goes from 2 to 4, if those bars double that means that the antenna is working, if they don't move, then the add on is useless. To a radio operator, 3 db gain means that you have effectively doubled what is coming in to your equipment, those bars do not represent how many db's but rather a percentage ratio, if your equipment shows 5 bars and 5 bars is the maximum signal that shows on the unit, then each bar represents 20% each, or 5 bars means 100%. In my case 5 bars is the maximum that shows, which means that with 2 bars the signal is 40%, by adding 2 bars to that, the signal is now 80%, easy to understand that 80% of a total input is much more effective than 40%.

Thanks Carl, no will never forget my first love, I have to blame Jimmy Carter for having to abandon her, but I thank God that Ronald Reagan was instrumental in turning my sinking ship into what has been a very successful career ever since. I hope this is not seen as political, but mere fact, cause it is. Our company grew out of a two man show in the den of my brother to a very successful company since 1978, I came on board in 1984, just after completing an electronics course and have steered the hardware end of the company ever since, with the company still growing daily.

I ordered one of these last week, came in the mail today, my signal in my bedroom at my S/B home was showing 2 bars on the 7730L jetpack. I then installed the unit to the jetpack, signal increased to 3 bars, about 8 feet from the window, I then placed attached the unit to the window with the suction cup supplied, 4 bars. This is the only unit that works so far short of a commercial grade setup. So I'm giving my thumbs up for this unit. I don't know if many of you realize that networking and computer related communications is what I have done for a living for the last 34 years, but it is.

I drove a Kassbohrer (german made) bus that 6 on them, a bit confusing until you get used to them. You set them to view, front of coach from each side, front tire each side, rear wheels, side of coach, behind, and far out so that you see none of your own coach, only what is beside you. I prefer the mirror mounted cameras instead of multiple mirrors.

Those are very helpful videos, any newcomer to RV'ing really need to watch them.

If you can find the wind sensor, cover it with some duct tape, hopefully the noise will go away, letting you know if you found the culprit or not.

Hmmmm! Vewwwey interesting, could it be a Chinese TV, and Chinese made LED's? TV stations do have their own frequencies, but unless you are parked under their antenna's RF field, I fail to see how changing frequencies of your tuner would have any effect on the LED lighting unless of course there may be some type of arcing going on within the tv. The tuners on all modern TV's are PLL (positive locking loop) controlled and require no crystal. Now the TV's of up until the mid seventies were crystal controlled and would have put out a small amount of radiation. It will be interesting to know what the outcome is of the LED dilemma is.

Does your shift pad light up when the ignition switch is on? Yes there should be a neutral safety switch. And I have never known of an interlock between parking brake and starter solenoid. Now this is only true if you have air brakes, and I am assuming that yours is. The parking brake on an air brake system actually releases air from a chamber on the drive axel brakes which releases the spring that in turn locks the drive axel brakes. If the shift pad is does not light up, then there is a problem with the shift computer which will not allow the starter to engage.

A simple solution is to install a 12 volt battery under the bed if you have room, then a 12 volt plug attached to the battery. You can use a small smart charger plugged into a 120 volt outlet to keep the battery charged, and with a smart charger, it is ok to leave it plugged up 24/7 to keep the battery fully charged, this way, even if power fails during the night or day, the c-pap will remain running with no intervention. Check the maximum amp draw @ 12 volts and let us know, this way we can recommend an appropriate battery size to give you the time needed to keep the machine running maximum amount of time. Also you would need to invest in a deep cycle battery, preferably a gel cell, or AGM because these need no attention for keeping the correct fluid level. Also there is a device which is referred to as a UPS (uninterruptable power source) that plugs directly into 120 volt and will supply 120 volt output, these devices are usually found in places like Sam's or Costco, they will be located near the computer sections of those stores, I would highly recommend one of these units even at home in case of a power failure. There is a built in alarm that will sound in the event of power failure, and most of these units the alarm can be silenced so that it will not awaken you, again be sure to let us know about the maximum amp draw so we can advise what size unit to buy.

I'm not going there, in fact I think that I'll have another BIG ORANGE, hick! Ask Bill C. if he knows what is is?

Here's a link to forum that usually has answers to your question. The only reason that I would even consider the loop is because of future possible need to replace the antenna. But if that occurs, you can always just replace the coax. http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1991547

Welcome to the RV world, hope the dog and DW don't regret it! Welcome also to the forum, hope all of you have many happy tales, (not tails) and trails.

Eddie, thanks for the update, I did send a PM back and will be awaiting a reply. I do computer work these days, and I do the upkeep of the sheetmetal shop. I'm sure that something can be made to happen. The drawing is very good and .125 aluminum will outlast both of us. Of course, I do need exact opening dimensions, and maximum depth both top and bottom. Oh yes the standard aluminum is brushed, I am not able to get anodized unless it is diamond plate, which will not look very appropriate for your application. The brush finish can be primed and painted though.

Is that one fiberglass or plastic? If fiberglass, you can purchase glasscloth and two part resin at most auto parts, boat repair, and Walmart stores. As handy as you are, you can repair that one and make a good looking repair of it. Most good sheetmetal shops should be able to make a good replacement using the old one as a pattern, that is of course they are willing to do so. I have such a shop that I do business with here, they don't do shipping, but if you are interested, PM me and I will try my luck for you. Are the louvers fixed position, or do they open and close by air or hydraulic? You could easily make a new one out of Fiberglass, just pour a plaster reverse mold using the old one, then refabricate the new one out of fiberglass.

If the WeBoost is disconnected, how many bars does your jetpack show? Reconnect the WeBoost, if the number of bars does not increase, then the WeBoost is doing nothing. Which jetpack are you using? I have both a 4510 l and 7730 l, both units will show virtually the same number of bars, ie., signal strength, but when checking bandwidth speed, the 7730 will show about three times the speed of the 4510. Also, have you checked the speed of the internet while outside an RV park with the same signal strength? The more bars that show on the device, the better the signal strength. You can test data speed by going to http://www.speedtest.org/, if your upload is not at least 1 meg up, your VPN will be very eratic, as the VPN is waiting for confirmation of encryption protocol before sending the next packet and will timeout accordingly. I have on occasion used a load balancing router to tie both the MiFi and the park data together for enough improvement to make a VPN more reliable. Don't buy into the bunk that the park internet is not secure enough, this is especially true if you are using at least 128 bit encryption on your VPN, because the VPN checks each and every packet, and if no match, the VPN will drop and try to renegotiate. Verizon tech support is very lousy unless you can get connected as a commercial customer, this is not easy to do unless you have a commercial account.

If you are using data through your hotspot, the signal is the same, and it will help. If you are picking data through the parks WIFI, then the weboost will not help this.

As I stated earlier, add a converter, and when you find a more competent tech, have that person remove the faulty one. In a pinch, you can go for a smart battery charger that is high enough amperage to keep the house batteries up for the time being, only problem with this type of setup is the battery chargers are not a good clean dc current and you could possibly see some ripple effect in your lighting, especially florescent. Most important thing is to bring your house batteries back up and keep them there, or you will ruin them if this condition persist.