kaypsmith

If at all possible please add a picture of the marble entry way that you would like to try to mimic. Please be advised that the flimsy looking substrate that is in your pictures will allow the marble to flex too much, and real marble is very brittle and will crack very soon unless you beef it up quite a bit. Granite is considerably tougher than marble and will hold up much longer than marble, and many beautiful patterns and colors are available. With all this said, I'm sure that there will be a cabinet dealer that either sells granite or can point you in the right direction to find someone near you that can cut and shape granite or marble to fit your needs. With any rock product, you will need to build the base into a good backing by using a good cement backer board, which will add both weight to the side of your coach that might be unwanted. There are many plastic laminates available, "Formica" is a brand that I only use the name to illustrate what I am referring to. This again is familiar to the cabinet suppliers in all areas. Corian is another option, which is synthetic, looks good, and is much easier to work with, and can be applied much thinner, than real stone. Good luck hunting. Blake was typing while I was, so beat me to the idea of using wood. Please be aware that the entry is or can be a very slippery place to use real stone on the steps, and those rubber treads in his picture are a very good idea.

Joe, not quiet, would need to add ground charcoal, sugar, salt-p****, to get that same outcome. LOL! Just smells a little but does work pretty well. I watched C V for about the 400th time again this year, I still like Robin Williams RV the the best. Idon't think that I would use it in my new closet though.

Carl, just don't mix the two, both do work well for their perspective jobs, also a trail of sulfer powder around the perimeter of the RV helps to keep snakes and rodents from entering the coach/ RV. Happy new year all.

Ditto on Ashville for the Biltmore Joe, especially since you like history. Happy New Year to all.

12.88 is a good reading with no load and batteries rested, 12.25 sounds pretty normal with inverter/charger on especially if there is a normal load on the inverter, and 14.38 would be expected when in bulk mode, this is where it would go when first turned on to shore power.

Cantilevers on a race car work quiet differently from air bags on a truck or motorhome. Yes you do need to set the ride height on a truck or motorhome in order to achieve four wheel alignment on a T or M, but not for purpose of altering weight. Altering weight through of the use cantilevers in order to change the air flow around the vehicle is why the importance of ride height in a race car, also weight distribution is very important in a race car because the aerodynamics are very important when one is traveling at 190+ mph in very light racecar, if you don't add weight through aerodynamics to your race car, then you will leave the ground at tremendous speeds.

Or Feliz-Navidad, happy new year to all.

Yes this is a very good reason to use four corner weighing, this is the only way to determine if you need to redistribute the weight inside the coach, or in the storage compartments, so that the tires are all doing their very best to carry their share of the load.

Air bags only provide a cushion between the wheels and the chassis. It doesn't matter if the pressure in one bag is 30# and the other is 50#, that only means that the chassis on the 50# side will be higher in relationship with the axel than the 30# side, this is the reason for ride height, to proportionally raise the height of the chassis in order to make the chassis as level as possible. It actually compensates for the weight difference on each corner, without the ride height valves, the driver front side would be sagging compared to the passenger front side. In other words, what Brett said is true, I'm only trying to give an example for better understanding.

Wheel alignment and air bags nor ride height adjustment have absolutely no effect on actual weight on the weight on a single wheel. Inaccurate scales could be a culprit, but then again unless all four corners were not weighed on the same scale, the scale is probably ok. Yes it needs to be reweighed to make sure the right front tire was not resting partially off the scale. Most holding tanks are set up to drain to the left side of a coach, but are usually crosswise of the coach to make sure that the weight is evenly distributed right to left. The fuel tank itself can weigh as much as 200# empty, and fuel weighs close to 7# per gallon, so 150 gallons of fuel could weigh 1150# plus the tank could be1350# then also the driver may outweigh the passenger. Of course I don't know where the fuel tank is located in your coach, just trying to point out some possibilities for the weight difference. Yes I would be a little concerned about the difference and try to correct if possible, but please don't panic, I would start by having the two fronts reweighed if possible as stated above.

If you do not know what it is connected to, how would one know that it is dysfunctional? LOL . Now more seriously, cause the devil made me do it. 10 watts is not much of a solar install, could only possibly power a very small motor or maybe a 8 to 10 watt light, could be a fridge vent power source or a roof vent for bathroom venting. If you are asking about possibly upgrading to a larger solar unit for powering other devices, please let us know so we can help with planning. Otherwise there usually are many choices for replacing a 10 watt unit, Places such as Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, and many other places sell some very useful charge units ranging from 10 to 20 watts for maintaining a battery while in storage, that could as easily be used to replace your 10 watt unit. There is only 2 things that are necessary for 12 volt solar, first a solar cell, most are 12 volts, few are 24 volt, and a charge controller which will regulate the unit for the purpose of not overcharging a battery. Happy Holidays, Kay

Rick, for future reference, those cheap remote controllers that you can order on ebay work really well for your type of project. You can find a hot 12 volt wire in many places on your coach, then install one or more of those critters almost anywhere. You can also power on or off all or only one at a time from a single remote. This is what I like most about, I carry the remote with me and use at any time.

Hope we all get to see it work Herman! Merry Christmas to all.

The customer plan calls for 22 gig but as Bill stated you are now limited to 15 gig per hotspot, was 10 gig till so many of us complained about that catch, then they moved it to 15. I was so disgruntled at Verizon about this, but then I found that with another hotspot I could use another 10, now 15, so I added another hotspot and a load sharing router. When the load share is up and running, I am able to use both together and before my 22 gig is used up, the system really flies, and when the throttling begins, instead of 70 K starting up, it is 140 K which is about the speed of three dial up modems tied together. Yes it is a shame that these companies are allowed to get away with this semi false advertising, but they get around it by giving their poorest service to complete the contract of "UNLIMITED".

Rich, this does seem like progress in reverse!

Welcome back, hope you have as many tales and trails as I have had over the years. Wishing a joyful holiday season.

I think Rich actually means, that if it were silicone, that it would last longer.

Thanks for letting us know what the problem really is. i'm glad that I still have the old gravity system.

To change over to a 3 inch gravity system, you would need to insure that the black tank is directly below the toilet and that you can drop straight down from the toilet to the black tank. I have on occasion been able to use a 30 degree fitting setup to offset just slightly and have never had a problem with this setup. Your problem currently with the setup that you have may beas simple as an airlock (that is air in the system) causing the problem, or an air leak between the toilet and the pump. If the pump will function outside the system correctly using a gravity feed into the pump, then cycle on the pump elecricly, then suspect the problem that I gave reference earlier in this post, also make sure there is no air leak in the small tubing to the pump acuater, or a kinked tube that may have happened while doing the hooking back up to the system. There are several good repair places in the Tampa/Bradenton area, Google will bring up several. Rich was typing while I was making reply, Also the sleeve looking fitting shown in your photo, make sure that those o-rings are good, I usually use petroleum jelly to lubricate those pryor to reassembly to avoid possible damage to them.

I hope this means that the issue has been resolved. Merry Christmas to all.

Most KIA dealers also think that their clients was born rich, I've owned 5 to date, and my wife currently drives the last one.

Hence the name "DISCOVERY" , LOL, now we know where the name was derived from. Welcome to the forum Steve, since no one else has welcomed you yet, and happy holidays to all.

The vinyl decals are pretty easy to remove, I've done many over the years. A good heat gun is the easier way, hair dryer will work but takes a whole lot longer. Start by warming the outer edge of the graphic and then start gently lifting the decal very slowly and remove it gently in a solid sheet by moving the heat back and forth slowly just ahead of the area that you are peeling, a little practice on the smallest ones works well. If you talk to a professional vinyl sign maker, most already have experience with the process, also they can guide you about replacement. Painting sure looks the best, but is much more expensive. The vinyl should look good for 8 to 12 years depending on quality of the vinyl, remember that cheap is cheap, the better grade cost more and will last longer. If you go this route, get instructions on proper maintenance so that it will the longest period of time. Do not use harsh detergents as they will start deterioration sooner than later. My entire coach is vinyl wrapped, I did the entire coach by myself, been 4 years now and still cleans up nicely.

It is not clear why the portable surge guard is not seeing an issue, but it appears that the CG pedestal probably is miswired. By using the pigtail 50 to 30, you have eliminated either L1 or L2 from the CG pesestal, because the pigtail uses only one of the CG 120 volt legs, then redistributes one 120 leg to both L1 and L2 going to your coach. As Brett posted the proper way to test the pedestal, either use that method with a VOM (volt ohm meter), or if you are uncomfortable testing 240 volts, you surely need to make the CG host aware of the situation and ask that it be corrected, even though you have gotten a work around for now, please do it for the future tenants of that site. Also, if the vom test proves the CG is defective, I believe that I would in the future, not rely on that device.

Sorry that I didn't notice this also. Are you by chance plugged into a 30 amp pedestal with using converter pigtail from 30 to 50 amps? This error is telling that somewhere along the line something is wired so that the neutral is now what is feeding the L1, should be 120 more less, and that now the neutral is what is feeding the ground. Now you stated that the portable surge guard is indicating "all clear", meaning that the CG pedestal is ok. This means that something is miswired between the two surge guards, or of course that one surge guard is not correct, this highly unlikely since it was working before. Please let us know if your RV is 30 amp or 50 amp, and also what is the amperage at the campground pedestal, 3 prong plug = 30 amp, 4 prong plug = 50 amp.