kaypsmith

Mike, looking at the pictures, I would use a jumper from the battery to the small wire on the side of the solenoid, if it engages, the solenoid is ok, and you will need to check the salesman switch to find out if 12 volts exist there. If the solenoid does not respond, then the solenoid is bad. Also, what does the device at the top say it is? I can't read it from the photo. It appears to be a fuse link, does both sides of this read 12 + volts to ground. On to another thought, the salesman switch may not be a 12v, but probably is a ground disconnect to avoid a parasitic drain on the battery.

Joe, took my son in law 4 weeks to finish decorating, 1.5 days to take down. The campground had 2 women that attempted to manage the CG for 1.5 years, finally replaced them and it is becoming normal again. Lots of history within the borders.

You did cover it very well, some just overlooked that part of the post. Glad you figured it out, and thanks for letting us know.

I would replace the drier even if I had to pay for the drier out of pocket, since they will be opening the system to replace the compressor. Darn insurance companies have a habit of excluding some items. Death insurance is the only one that I have not had a problem with yet. Need a pitchfork on this emotion, LOL.

If you have a battery switch, hold it on, and have someone try setting the battery switch to on. The juice should flow in both directions, this would allow a solenoid to set if the coach battery is dead, don't leave it in this position except for a short test, that would drain your chassis batteries. If I had your concerns about the pump, I would disconnect it, then start a charging program to the house batteries. A VOM is a must if you own a motorhome.

In earlier days, before electronic transmissions, tow/haul literally put your transmission on notice that you were pulling a much heavier load than usual and in those days the overdrive function was locked out. The transmissions of those days used sun gears to produce overdrive, the ability to cause the engine to run at lower RPM in order to increase fuel mileage not HP. Sun gears are a weaker link in the transmission and with heavier loads are more prone to failure. Newer models probably is used for similar reasons. To turn it on or off at these times should be covered in your manual, but in the newer technology I think that you should turn on off at your discretion, so I feel that you are on the right course.

A kill solenoid would most likely be for the chassis batteries and the chassis batteries do not power the inside lighting in most coaches. Sometimes the slides and leveling gear is attached to the chassis batteries, this is so that the engine must be running when retracting or extending, as they are high battery amp devices. The interior lights are almost always driven by the house batteries, meaning that the chassis batteries should not effect them. Do I think that the water pump is the problem with all 12 volt not working, no, but it may have blown a fuse that also is attached to a solenoid used to disconnect the coach (house) battery supply, and in that case is why that it should be tested hooked to an individual battery with a fused supply line. As stated, if the coach battery bank has current, then look for a large fuse or disconnect nearby the coach batteries. I would start at the bank with a VOM (volt ohm meter) and check every connection one at a time till I found an open circuit, fuse could be blown or a faulty solenoid or a wire burned into. Also look for a salesman switch, usually near the entry steps, I don't know where the panel in picture is, but if located near the entry, it probably will be what a lot of refer to as a salesman switch, they are placed there to help dealers not having to individually turn everything in the coach off and on for show purposes, and have wreaked havoc for owners when it got turned off accidently and the owner wasn't aware that it existed. Missed one question, yes the house solenoid could be located under the switch in the picture, but not necessiarilly so, I would suspect closer to the battery bank.

I hang moth balls in an old stocking inside the engine and generator compartments, and sprinkle some Sulphur in those areas also, it's great as a snake deterrent also. lenp, I like the led light idea also. Forgot to mention that I owned a KIA suv that a squirlle ate the wiring harness under the hood, that's when I started using moth balls, it was the dealer that recommended it.

First things first, you said that you put the jacks down and the slides out, so apparently they worked this time. Then you checked the water pump to see if any life left, obviously not. So the 12 volt ceased working probably while checking the water pump, and the pump had already quit working while on the trip. You also stated that the batteries are new, how new, just installed just before parking the rig at home, or just before the trip? Have you checked the battery bank for voltage, if not that would be my starting point. If voltage 12 volts or above, then look for a solenoid, the rocker switch in the picture is not heavy duty enough be the actual disconnect, it will most likely be attached to a heavy duty solenoid which I suspect is not engaging for some reason. This is just starters, others will have more suggestions, but as stated, the above would be my starting point. Questions about the batteries were for determining if the batteries may have been incorrectly installed, or maybe even a connection there too loose, happy hunting, hope you find an answer soon.

Richard, I too am running a bus conversion, I recently installed a 5000 (10,000surge watt) watt pure sine wave inverter, it is powered by the two 8D's chassis batteries, and only run while the coach is running. The alternator is 180 amp @24 volts, in turn, I can run the two roof airs off of this setup while driving the bus, has worked very well for me. Forgot to mention that I have also installed a gasoline powered 24 volt generator to give supplemental amps to the battery bank, it an automatic start triggered by 12.0 volts to start the genny and shuts down when system reaches 12.8, it very seldom comes on as I do not use the inverter if the bus motor is not running. The inverter is a 240 volt inverter and can be used to charge the coach batteries if plugged into 50 amp shore power.

Very good thought, probably most overlooked, 7 amps about 800 watts worth, with no sound. 7 amps would be a one horse electric motor, not too quiet. Or heated tanks maybe, depending on what part of country the niece lives in, I used to use a waterbed heater set on auto control. I personally would turn off the misc., breaker and start watching for what thaws or freezes.

The #2 option would be my first option, and yes 15 amps @ 12 volts will be plenty sufficient on an 8D battery for the intended use, few maintainers are in excess of two amps, and the Xantrex Echo charger will monitor both sides simultaneously and perform very well. Also your 8D is not like an auto high cycle battery, nor is it a true deep cycle, and it will actually pair very well with the golf car batteries, but to your original OP, yes the solenoid that you described will also work well for that use, make sure that it is a continuous use solenoid.

What device are you using to verify the amp draw? Is it the control panel built into the MH, or is it a free standing (battery powered) clamp on meter? The built in one uses power itself, although 7 amps seems excessive. Excuse this slight change, it probably uses 12 volts from the house system, not thinking too clearly, not enough coffee yet, LOL.

More information on your generator will be very helpful. Old school technology really doesn't give it to us. Many generators do not have an alternator to charge the generator battery, but instead are tapped off of the generator winding and then use bridge rectification with circuitry to give correct charge to the battery. If this is the case, with a good 8D battery, I would not be concerned that the 8D would not start the generator. I was typing while Rich was, so I will not repeat what he has already added. The way to test if the generator is charging the generator battery or not is to check the voltage at the battery with a good VOM, if 13.2 or above just after starting the generator then the genny is charging the battery. Now in an ideal world, I would only add a good (120 volt supplied), battery maintainer to the genny battery in case of a parasitic drain on the battery. And as Rich said if the genny battery gets its supply from the chassis battery bank, then a maintainer would help in helping to keep up the chassis batteries. I really doubt that yours is tied to your chassis battery though, I see in your avatar that your coach is a bus conversion, if so the coach will be a 24 volt system and yes you could tie one 12 volt in, but your coach appears to be one produced before equalizers were added, and this scenario would shorten the life of the coach batteries. Most, but not all generators that have a wattage designation that ends with 500 are built in the way that I described earlier, usually seen with a 25 amp and a 30 amp fuse in the output circuit breaker to your 120 volt output. The windings will be identical, but that is where the other 500 watts is going, to charge the generator battery. Please let us know what generator, both brand name, model#, and date of manufacture if possible, so that we can be more helpful in identifying what is a (best) scenario for you. Almost forgot to mention that Brett's full time smart combiner is also a good choice.

Nothing but the sharks were happy about it. Bet they were also disappointed when they bit into them with no BODY at home.

Herman, as stated I use most of the water in the holding tank to flush the pipes and faucets. It really isn't necessary to drain the tank completely, but I do use most of it in the flushing process. Incidently, this is also one of the times that I add calgon water softener to the gray tank and calgon and dawn dish liquid to the black tank to help in bacteria control in those. Now on to non bleach Clorox, this is not hydrogen peroxide, it is sodium hypochlorite, which is derived from sodium chloride (table salt), and of course is also non toxic, but not as palatable as H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide), also will cause the water to have a slight milky white discoloration, leaving a film on glass fixtures if not completely removed from the tank. I think that I remember Herman stating that you were a sailor in the military, if not please forgive me. If you were then you will recall those days of doing the laundry onboard ship, dragging the laundry behind the ship then rinsing with desalinated water, how clean and great they were and smelled with no discoloration to the navy blues, this is the principal behind non chlorine clorox.

I've used hydrogen peroxide for many years instead of chlorine to sanitize my fresh water system. It doesn't have that nasty chlorine smell and taste after sanitizing. https://livingtraditionally.com/how-to-use-hydrogen-peroxide-to-purify-water/ 1/8 cup, that's 1 oz. of 10% H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) per gallon of water in the holding tank will oxygenate the water in 15 minutes, if you drink it, it will not be harmful to you in these proportions. I usually treat the water then run it through the system with the onboard pump to each faucet, one at a time to clean out all of the piping in the coach. I also will dip a dish cloth that has been rolled small enough in vinegar, then force the dish cloth into each open faucet, and take the shower head and other aerators and drop those into pure vinegar and let those sit there for about 30 minutes, before taking them back out and re attaching to their respective places. Results is amazing.

Rich, I agree that the door awning motor may have a short, but the wiring going to that motor may have developed a short and may be causing havoc.

The hazardous material warnings are meant for big trucks carrying those hazardous materials. While gasoline is a hazardous material, an auto or truck, or RV, without carrying a tanker load is not labeled hazardous, although they are, but in a relatively smaller proportion. Please do observe the need to turn off any appliance that uses propane while fueling, as this is a real danger zone because of the vapors produced at a gasoline pump while transferring gas to a vehicle. And of course at any location that specifies turning off propane appliances. Much better to be safe than sorry and thanks for your willingness to become familiar with the circumstances that can occur. If you feel safer turning off those appliances while traveling through a tunnel, then by all means do it, safety should always be our utmost concern, but my reccomendation is not the law concerning these things. Many happy trails and tales as you are now embarking on this new adventure. And by all means, be aware of your height before entering any tunnel, I live in Alabama and have passed through the tunnel in Mobile many times. Kay

Carl, it's there hidden by the ghosts.

0.7938 is the metric conversion. Or 7938 micrometers.

This is Tannehill State campground near Bessemer Alabama.For the last 26 years we have had a Halloween Carnival, over 400 campsites, over 300 decorated for halloween. The last 9 years there have been prizes awarded to the best overall, most iminagitive, best lights, and best animation. We won best animation this year.

X2, disconnect the chassis battery to make it stop till repairs can be made.

You may want to research for a different riser, the blue ox is a good brand, but I doubt that it makes that much difference about the brand as stated earlier in another post, there is not that much weight on the device. I agree with wildbill, a 6 inch extension would not be a bad choice because tongue weight is not the issue in this case, if towing a trailer with an excessive tongue weight then I would not even consider it.

To troubleshoot this situation, I would turn every 120 volt breaker off except the main breaker, then turn the inverter on, remove shore power and leave the generator off. If the inverter comes on and appears normal, then start turning each breaker back on one at a time until the E05 reappears. When this happens, you have isolated which breaker has been added to get the inverter into this condition. Remember that it may be a combination or two breakers that has caused this condition, meaning that you will need to decide which combination is the culprit. After isolating down to this condition you should be able to isolate what in the system is actually causing the problem. If the inverter shows the same E05 condition with only the main breaker on, then suspect that there is a problem with the inverter itself. 1800 watts is only 15 amps at 120 volts, so if anything else is running at the time the fridge tries to kick in, it could easily cause this condition with the inverter.