kaypsmith

Joe, that is a great looking site. Herman, it's the "simple" things in life that makes us appreciative. After the last repair on my coach about 6 weeks ago, the bus would crank and run for 60 seconds then shut off, did that about 8 times, all kinds of bad thoughts went through my head. I started looking for loose wires, when I discovered the 12 volt feed wire to the ECM, that I could just touch it and the motor would run just a little longer. I took the nut off, cut the old ring terminal off and crimped a new back one back on, no more shut downs, fingers crossed now.

I used it as a no water wax, it is great for those times in a park that does not allow washing your coach with their water, I have only been to one so far that probably would complain if they saw you using it as a waterless solution. Actually the waterless washes work much better when no water is used, it actually uses the "dirt" to achieve better results. The after shine seems to last pretty well also, I bought a medium size supply, and still have at least half yet. In another thread, I posted that I used a local guy to wash the coach for $25.00, much simpler to use him when at home.

Selling our home in Myrtle Beach and then moving to TN in early spring. I understand I need to show two years of residency before selling the home to avoid taxes. I purchased the TN home of a 1031 land exchange to avoid taxes on another sale in Myrtle Beach. I thought if I could mail forward from TN for two years then we would sell the one. Thanks for responding, that now makes sense to me. The USPS will forward mail sent to a residential address for six months, meaning that you could have "some" mail sent to the address of the new to you TN home, then make for other arrangements. Here is an option also. http://www.themailboxstore.org/Home-Business/Digital-Mailbox-Rental

Herman, we'll just start saying SIMPLE HERMAN instead of simple simon. I also saw the 1 ohm, but not knowing his meter, and 1.9 volts just is not right, or southern talk "just ain't right", and I'm so red neck, don't have to wear a shirt.

Have you already left the home, and did you live in Tn., prior to selling it?

I used it a couple of times last year, worked well for me, I applied by the instructions, and although it stated that it was ok on windows, I never apply anything that has the word wax in the title directly to my windshield.

Sounds like great news, hope it fixes it.

The most reliable source is WW Williams, I also have a dead bus yard, I will PM you with that phone number. Quite a number of parts are also available on ebay, this engine was many produced and used for fire trucks and marine use. Also if BillA is still looking, the WW Williams in B"ham., Al still has a two stroke mechanic that has help me out with some tough questions, just call them and ask for the two stroke mechanic.

All lights in the overhead are 12 volt supplied from the house batteries, with this said, things are narrowing down to a house battery issue. The ground system to those batteries would my primary concern. The clunking sound that you are hearing is that relay dropping out and coming back on when the engine is starting. The battery voltage seems good based on what you have reported. As said earlier if voltage drops below a reasonable voltage level that relay should not be dropping. I would at this point disconnect each battery in the house battery compartment, taking pictures as you go, and marking each wire to make sure that they are reinstalled correctly. Check the voltage level on each one separately looking for any noticeable difference in voltage. One bad cell can cause strange things to happen. Another thing that I have seen happen is that the house battery bank should have a ground from the batteries to the metal shield if there is one around the batteries, and also to the chassis frame, one simple way to test if this is a problem is to use a jumper cable from the negative battery post directly to the frame rail of your coach, of course I'm speaking of the house batteries. My theory right now is that the house batteries are achieving their through the alternator while the coach is running or being backfed when the auxiliary start switch has been activated.

You should be able to find two wires that enter the shade housing, most likely red and white, not always but most of the time. The motor is at the end of that wire inside the housing, it is a 12 volt dc motor. If you can get to those wires, you should be able to reverse the wires, with this done, the switch that made it go down will make it go up, unless there is a gear stripped. If it does not go back up then it will have to be taken out for further repairs. If it does work then there is an electrical problem. One other simple test, have someone with good hearing to listen closely to the end of the housing where the wire enters, then activate the switch, if motor running sound can be heard or felt, then there is a gear problem, try this first. Remember that the limit switch has sensed the end of travel, so you will need to only use the up button for the latter test, those limit switches only work one way, so it will not be what is causing it to not go back up.

Bill, I just got through with a bout with 6V92, it is DDEC III. I actually thought that there was something wrong with the turbo, or the blower. The blower is designed for that low end boost needed to get going, it is gear driven, the turbo sits right on top of it. I changed the oil before the trip to Tennessee last month, and did some routine checking of all engine components, and found what appeared to be a small exhaust manifold leak on the left bank, that is the one on the right side looking into the motor bay from the rear. I removed the manifold and to my dismay found that this was not just the usual blown gasket. Both ends were completely broken off both sides and only held in place by the manifold studs. Delayed the trip two days while having the parts delivered expedited. The end results were amazing, power was back to normal for take off and climbing the hills in Tn. was terrific. Looking back, I wish that I had broke out the mirror two years ago, the cracks were on the back side and had been overlooked by two other mechanics.

I can relate to a similar problem with one of my coaches in the past. Please do not ignore Rich's post, but my problem turned out to be a bad ground cable connection on the generator to chassis, probably not your problem, but it sure can't hurt to make sure all ground connections are clean and tight.

If you have access to a vise, most hardware and building supply stores have a display of metals. I like to use aluminum 1/8 inch barstock, 1-1/2" wide, easily bent and a portable drill to drill holes where needed. Brett's method is good but this is just another way.

Is the shade use a toggle switch inside, or some type of remote controller? If a remote controller, one could hardwire a dp/dt switch, assuming that hooked to a battery that it does work. If the battery in my remote control gets weak, I have similar issues. These are just some thoughts, if guidance is needed on how to hardwire, just ask, many on the forum can help. You do not describe the problem with the front shade, but I'm guessing that it will go down, but not back up?

I just purchased a new Mifi to add to my collection of hotspots, price was $99.00, and with a two year contract discounted to $49.00. The new model is 7730L old one 4510L, both are 4gLTD, the 7730L is more than twice the speed up and download side by side. I'm with Verizon.

If the battery is giving no other problem, I would keep them up as in the past and as Bill suggest, thoroughly clean up the corrosion with baking soda solution, leave the door open in a dry climate and repaint the area. I have gone to that Flex seal that is advertised on tv and have experienced good results. By the way, silicone caulk is wonderful stuff around windows, plastic, fiberglass and the likes, but is very corrosive on all types of metal, for that reason I try to discourage anyone using it on metal. Of course when the batteries have reached their EOL, it will be a good time to look at AGM batteries. Another tip for battery life and reduction of excessive water usage is desulfation, many charger/inverters have this feature built in, although I think there is another term used for this, just don't remember the term, but is same process. One can google desulfation and find several methods for doing this, it will help with the corrosion issues and extend the battery life.

Joe, I have a similar issue with sleeping, I like the softer mattress and Sue likes her side to resemble the floor without carpet. As you know, I have a queen adjustable bed, not split just adjustable. I ordered a queen size adjustable firmness memory foam mattress off of ebay, which is achieved by stacking several thickness's of foam under the memory foam under the topper. All of this happens within a zippered cover for the mattress. There are three different pieces of foam, one is very firm, one is medium firm, and the other is the softest. To get it to the firmness that I like, I stacked it several ways and found the one that I liked best. Now to make Sue happy, I restacked it several ways to find her desired firmness, could not find the floor model, so I added three pieces of plywood, remember that it is an adjustable bed with two distinct places where the bed pivots. Now I found that with the top foam being the firmest, and the middle being medium, I could place the plywood between these two layers, she said that it was great. I then cut two of the foam layers down the middle and restacked to fit my needs on my side of the bed, put the zippered lining back on and now both of us are happy with a good nights sleep. We once owned a sleep number bed and could not get as good as we now have.

Curious to know, is there anything in your life style that happens about 10 PM? Is that after going to bed, or just before? For a lot of folks that is close to bed time, does your wife start drying her hair, or anything that calls for more electric at that time. Not being nosey, just trying to get an idea as to what is triggering the drop out. I am a little suspicious about the ATS also. That is all that can drop out if power is not being lost, and will certainly drop out if power is lost. One way that I would test, is to place a nice bright incandescent light where I can watch it at about that time of night, powered by an extension cord that is plugged into the campground pedestal, bypassing the coach wiring all together. This way when and if the power drops in the coach you will know if it is pedestal related or coach power related. My gut feeling is that the ATS has become weak over the years and is either heating up and dropping out from campground power then remaining in that condition until you go through your ritual of exercising it. No I would not run out and replace it without some testing. There is some low level electronics involved in the ATS, and those components may be breaking down, it is almost 6 years old if you bought it new and had been freshly built. Good luck chasing.

Hope that you already have reservations for that trip, parks in that area get really full during that season. The leaves are really beautiful during that season if there has been enough rain leading up to it. I was there three weeks ago and the streams look as though there has been enough rainfall this year.

Rich, what Joe is offering sounds like a sweet deal. Heading south from your area would really be for me.

Herman, what are you drinking?

What good is all that speed if you can't afford or don't want to pay for the data used? At $10.00 per gig and at that speed if one requires that much bandwidth, then the bill per month will be astronomical.

Have you tried bleeding the power steering system?

I use Verizon, and their "footprint" far exceeds any other carrier in our area, other parts of the country may vary, I'm in the southeast. Your post states that you have been with them for 5 years, all cell phone, hotspot, and home phone. Have you upgraded any of your equipment since you first signed up with them. I've been with them for about seven years now, first service was 3g, then I upgraded to 4g, the speed tripled. I used a Mifi 4510 L for the last 5, and saw speeds of 17 to 19 meg per second. With the advent of Unlimited data plan, I thought that I could count of 22 gig of 4g then will revert to 3g, not completely true. After extensive research, what happens is that each device is a hotspot, and each device has a 10 gig limit at 4g, then it reverts to 3g, and 3g literally crawls, I measured .030 meg download and .045 upload this morning. I decided two weeks ago to beat the system and order a second hotspot, that uses another line, $20.00 per line charge per month. The new Mifi is a 7730 L, this gives me access to 10 more gig at 4g, now the kicker, the 7730L sitting side by side with the 4510L, the 4510 clocks still 16 to 19 mps, while the 7730L is clocking 33 to 42 mps, remember they are side by side on two different computers but twice the speed on the new equipment. Now please note that I live 300 yards from the Verizon tower, and on top of the same hill.

I don't know exactly what yours is like on the bottom for mounting holes, the Winegard web page does not list a mounting kit for your model, only a tripod. But I would bet that a competent sheet metal shop can match up a set of mounting plates for you. There is a roof mount kit RK2000 listed on their site that will fit other models, just not yours. http://www.winegard.com/wp-content/uploads/catalog-sheets/WC-1133.pdf I would print out the page that you would like best to have them prepare, or if you are handy, just take a close look and build something that you would like. If you take it to a sheet metal shop, take the carryout with you and let them make suggestions. I always use .125 aluminum for making such items, and use stainless steel screws and or bolts for the ability to with stand weather related corrosion. My preference would be to make a ladder mounted device so that I wouldn't need to screw to the roof, but screws through the roof should be no problem, there is usually plenty of them up there. I also prefer Sikaflex sealer over Dicore because it seems to hold up longer.