huffypuff

I hear you MadHungarian as so many gas vehicles has gone to recess plugs. Another good method is to blow compress air into the recess to blow out debris being sure you have your safety glasses on. I worked government fleet for 30 years and I know how bad the operating conditions can be.

In my shop I have the extractor tool, taps for new seats and 6 mm camera to see what I'm doing. I expect at least one at each spark plug change. Brett what Rich is talking about the Triton 3 valve engine with the extended spark plugs. The non Triton engine have normal spark plugs and not without problems. The non Triton have only a few threads to hold plug in and strips easy. Hint for Triton 3 valve engines, pull vacuum line and suck a can of seafoam slowly into engine at idle and then let set overnight before removing plugs. I never had plugs break after doing that. Use Champion replacement spark plugs for replacement for they are solid not crimped on like Motorcraft. When installing put anti seize on both body and threads of spark plugs so no problem to remove later.

Contacting the dealer and manufacture how? Was it by phone, email or instant message? To get serious attention you must send them a certified letter to the owner of the dealer and management of the manufacturer. State that they must fix everything in a timely fashion or you will explore lemon laws. Back in 1994 I bought a Ford Thunderbird that had a transmission that would wind out before it shifted. The dealer kept telling me it was normal and the way it was designed. After a run around from the dealer for almost a year I sent a certified letter to the General Manager of the dealer and to Ford motor company. Less than a week later I got a phone call from the dealer that the parts to fix the transmission was in. The replacement was new valve body and computer and that fixed the transmission. The dealer and the manufacture knew all along what was wrong with the transmission but tried to stick me with it because it was costly to fix it right. When they knew that it was going to cost them the entire price of the car they fixed it. My demand to them is to fix the transmission of replace the car.

I had hydraulic disc brakes on a older 34 foot Southwind diesel pusher. It stopped very well and it's easy to replace brake pads on it. It didn't have the high tech electronic used on systems today and the unit was gvw at 19,000 lbs.

On return I was in Bear, DE I took US-40 to MD-272 to I-95 took exit 67 to US-1 then straight to 695 W to I-70. Shorter route and no tolls even though there was two in the area on I-95.

When I'm searching for a break, short or open, I use the Power Probe with a 20 foot lead. If you ever use one of these you will never go back to a test light. http://www.rakuten.com/prod/power-probe-ppr319ftc-power-probe-iii/212940171.html?listingId=331619458&scid=pla_google_SynergyDataInc&adid=18172&gclid=CO6-wKDl570CFQWTfgodiH8AqA manufacture link http://www.powerprobe.com/pp3.php

I always give filters 3/4 to 1 turn after the gasket touches and I never have any problems. You can cuss me out when it come time to change that filter but I never had a filter leak or suck air from being loose.

I seen truckers taking different route as I follow map to key bridge. There wasn't many there and no wonder as I got dinged hard for flat towing my Jeep. Triple the 2 axle truck price for having a toad. I told my wife if we had to go back that way we would unhook at the before rest area and hook back up at after rest area and save enough to make it worth it. Lucky we didn't have to as I hit avoid tolls on the GPS when we headed back down to go to New Orleans, LA

Medico you just made me happy I have a ISC 330 and went a little smaller. My mileage is up to 9 towing my Jeep Liberty but I'm sure you can beat me up those mountain grades. I won't feel so bad now when I get passed.

I been through Baltimore, MD and had to bypass a tunnel on I-95. It was clearly marked restriction before getting there. I stopped at a rest area before and no propane even travel trailers. I got a detour map and went on my way over key bridge.

Look up the spec of your engine and drive just above max torque in high gear as that is usually where the sweet spot is.

I use the batwing for local channels and replace mine after connector failure right inside the roof. You will get a short lead, a long lead, connector and booster. You probably will not be abled to use the long lead as access to running it might be near impossible through the ceiling. That is ok just be sure you clean up the roof lead use the new short lead on the antenna and new connector. Coat all connection with dielectric grease to weatherproof and prevent problems later. Use a good rv roof sealer to seal the base of the antenna and roof connector if separated. Mine also had a micro switch that turns on a dash light if antenna is up. if you see a couple of 16 gauge wires up there that is what it is for. You can test it by twisting the wires together and turning on the ignition and see if antenna up light comes on. The 12 volt booster will be most likely be in one of the front cabinets near the switch box and I recommend to go ahead and replace it with the new one. Be sure you note output to tv's and input to antenna and wiring to 12 volts. My tv were HD flat screens tv but not digital so I had to installed a convertor box since my coach was built early 2006. If your coach was built before 2006 most likely it not digital ready and have to installed a converter box. After 2006 you may have digital ready tv's. It's nice to be able to tune into local channels when boondocking.

Have it survey by an expert. It should be worth the cost.

Camping world sells plastic clips to prevent that in windy condition.

My cat sits a distance away pretending he is not interested in going out when the door is open for a visitor when you watch him. I try to keep my foot ready for a block if he tries to go out the door. The moment eyes are off him he will try to shoot out the door with success many times.

mpierce That's not good that some truckers would use dangerous tires and put everybody lives at risk. I also don't like retreads and the dangers to others and time to outlaw them also.

An dishonest dealership would tell you something is wrong with trade to steal it from you. Get a second opinion and fix current van to use for your needs.

I have a 8k Onan generator in my 06 HR and they have it set up that the generator runs out of fuel at about 3/8 of a tank. So anytime I run the fuel below 3/8 of a tank with the coach air will get in the pickup tube and can stall the generator later when I start it with a full tank. Then I have to prime and prime again to get it going again. The reason Monaco does that is that they think customer are too stupid and run the entire tank dry running the generator. As for the stalling problem with the engines and lack of power, I would change both fuel filters first and check if yours have a screen near the rear in front of of the transmission. When I was working fleet we got caught on a couple of those and started changing the screen on a regular basic.

What type of material is the toy hauler made of. It will be interesting to know what type of material it failed on.

Most extended warranty companies will not pay for shipping, shop charges and taxes so don't be surprised when you get the bill. Still it is much less than the repair for example when I had 16,000 lbs jack replaced. The bill would of been $1,700 not the $341 I paid. Even if I did the repair myself, the jack would of cost more and still had to pay for shipping.

It's best you talk to tireman9

I-95 is the main route.

Dave, could it be possible that a local rebuilder of electric motors could have taken care of it? Usually a starter and alternator repair shop. That's what we did when I worked for fleet that included motors for snow plows, winches, dump bodies and other things that have electric motors. You just don't throw the whole thing out for a motor. Tommy, I have ExtraRide and when I had a front jack blow a seal and scratch the cylinder they paid for new jack and labor. What they didn't pay for is freight, shop supply, and local taxes. That was added to my deductible and is normal with most extended warranty policies. I still saved $900 for having a extended warranty policy.

They don't even show the device. For all we know it could be pour in your tank once snake oil.

I know that you don't want to hear this but it sounds like antenna connection. Sorry!