huffypuff

I got the replacement echo charger this afternoon and replaced it tonight. I moved it to the inverter compartment by drilling a 1 inch hole through both compartment walls. One of original wire was short but the new wire for the chassis battery is longer so I swapped it out at the inline fuse. I protected the wires going through the walls with rubber grommets and sealed the inverter compartment with ribbon sealer. I have 13.5 volts going to the house batteries and 13.1 volts going to the chassis batteries so I think it's good. I wonder why Monaco didn't put this in a dryer location in the first place? This is a good upgrade for those that the chassis batteries don't charge when on shore power. There is only three wires to hook it up and easy instruction.

If your system was never charged and maybe very slow leak it's best when recharging to add uv dye to it. That way if it's low next year you can find it with uv light and special goggles.

One question I have is do you at times idle your engine. If so fuel can wash into your oil as the combustion chamber isn't warm enough to burn all the fuel.

There should be a fuse to protect the gauges, see if it is blown. I don't know if this has anything why it won't shift past second unless the transmission reads the speedometer like some of the older Fords do.

The battery and inverter compartments is right next to each other with the echo charge on the wall next to the inverter compartment. There is less than a one inch space between the compartments with the battery wall metal and the wall near the inverter plastic fiber tub material. I can drill a one inch hole through the two walls and used grommets on the edges to prevent shorts. I should have enough wires to pull through to the dry inverter compartment and caulk to seal the holes. That should put the echo charge in a cooler, clean, dry environment. The inverter compartment has a inlet vent that I added a filter to it such as used on a window A/C and a filtered exhaust fan that automatically kicks on if temperature gets high. I wanted to post pictures but it ask me for a url not the file.

Recently went to check the condition of the batteries and found the starting batteries almost dead. I found that there is a digital echo charger made by Xantrex that quit working. Unfortunately if it get a little damp it will fail and is not repairable. It supposed to have a solid green LED light lit when charging, flashing means a fault exists and no LED means it is fried. I have another one coming and it will be here Friday. I like to spray the batteries once a year with cleaner and hose off then coat the terminals with sealer so I may of caused it to a certain extent. Other cause is the batteries are in a area where salt spray can get to it and corrode it. I'm going to see if I can relocate it near the inverter where it stays dryer and has a fan and filters to keep it clean and cooler. I will keep you posted what I do.

Go to Camping World and they have many colors and styles that clip on and hose off.

Linda I live in WA and been across Canada border many times and the biggest thing they look for at the crossing is fresh fruit and vegetable. They are very worry about fruit flies and for good reasons. See Bill's list as you said you be crossing from Washington into B.C.

When a circuit is overloaded those breakers will pop. My wife and her friend had a coffee pot, another pot to make tea and a toaster going at the same time and popped one of those breakers. Remove the output wires and see if the problem goes away. If so shorted wiring in the coach, If not problem is with the inverter and needs to go back to the shop.

One reason you don't want to mix different size tires front to rear is if the coach has ABS, traction control and/or stability control. If it kicks on in an emergency you want to be sure that it does what it's expected to do. ABS saved me from a crash once during my Christmas holiday trip when a woman changed lanes and stopped in front of my coach.

Workhorse, Chevy P-30/32 Chassis Handling Solutions I have to keep both hands on the steering wheel, even on good roads, with no wind. Solution: The OEM bell cranks are notaries for being out of tolerance. These should be replaced with a roller bearing bell crank such as the SuperSteerTM HD bell crank. This will greatly improve the steering, and handling of any P- 30/32. Proposing, bouncing, harsh ride, and floating front end. Solution: Upgrade to Bilstein HD Shock absorbers. This will improve ride quality and control. Excessive body roll on winding roads and windy conditions, passing trucks blowing you around the road. Solution: Install a front HD Sway Bar, and rear polyurethane bushing kit, for much better control and safer handling. This will reduce body-roll and sway of the vehicle. Sagging front end due to fatigued coil springs or damaged airbags. Solution: A Hellwig Transverse front helper spring will give you back the ride height and steering geometry needed. It will also help prevent bottoming out. The back end feels like it is moving sideways when trucks are passing, in high gusty winds and on rutted roads. Solution: A rear TigerTrak Track-bar eliminates the rear axel shifting, resulting in a much better handling coach. No more tail wag. I am concerned about a Front tire blowout. Solution: A TruCenterTM Steering Control will hold you in a straight ahead position, even with a front tire blowout. I have to keep both hands on the steering wheel, even on good roads, with no wind. Solution: A TruCenterTM Steering Control will hold the Tie Rod with up to 135 lbs of pressure. This will make your vehicle go straighter without constant steering wheel correction. It will be much easer to drive with less fatigue, and all front end parts, and tires will last longer.

Xantrex repair centers http://www.xantrex.com/contacts/authorized-service-centers.aspx

You gotta save money somewhere to pay them high payments.

Welcome to the forum and good question. That sounds like a very nice feature on a 4x4 pickup. If transfer case goes to neutral I don't know why the transmission shouldn't be in park. That would prevent the transmission from spinning and getting overheated and damaged. If I was you I would be sure to contact Ford about that also.

If you use horsepower to back the toad you could over do it adding stress to the tow bar and break something.

I don't back up the toad but only release the parking brake and push it back until it locks. Human power won't break as much as horsepower.

If unhooking and won't unlock, I just use a claw hammer to pull the pins. Very easy just make sure you applied the parking brake first.

I copy and pasted this from Blue Ox owners manual 9. Disconnect the towed vehicle from the towing vehicle before backing up. Do Not Back Up while vehicles are connected! Damage to both vehicles and the towing system may occur. The towed vehicle may jackknife causing abnormal stress to the tow bar, car chassis, baseplate and/ or pintle hitch of the towing vehicle. These abnormal stresses may cause damage that may go undetected 3. On the towed vehicle, disengage the parking brake and set up the transmission for towing and unlock the steering wheel. Pull forward with the towing vehicle until one or both of the locking handles are engaged and locked (When locked they will “pop” up). If only one locking handle is locked, turn the towed vehicle’s steering wheel towards the unlocked tow bar leg approximately 1/2 to 3/4 turn, before continuing forward. Drive the towing vehicle forward until the second leg locks into place.

I copy and paste this from Roadmaster owners manual. DRIVER MUST NOT BACK UP MOTORHOME WITH VEHICLE ATTACHED Backing up with towed vehicle attached easily causes the vehicle to "jack-knife" and will damage the tow bar, mounting bracket, hitch, the towed vehicle front end and/or rear of the motorhome. This is the primary cause of tow bar damage and will void the warranty. step 6 Now slowly pull away in the motorhome. Your tow bar will self center and the AUTOLOK system will "SNAP" into position as you drive away. Visually verify that the locks have engaged before taking your trip. TIP: If the BLACKHAWK™ arm does not automatically lock when you pull the motorhome ahead, try turning the motorhome left, then right as you pull away. This will pull each arm in the necessary direction to engage the locking mechanism.

I only had one problem with the kitchen on the slide. The sink p-trap nut came loose enough to leave a small puddle on the floor. I think it was due to road vibration not the slide. 5 minute fix on a double sink.

I do what dgwieb does with my Jeep Liberty and work everything except when I forgot to unlock steering wheel. I didn't get out of the campground before catching it but imagine how stupid I felt.

I had stayed at flying J not taking up two spots or running generator but for rest that next to impossible. Why, the constant flow of big rigs 24/7 coming in and out to fuel and stop for a few hours. That is where most of the noise and smell comes from. Yes I rather stay at a campground and have quiet night sleep if I can find a place at close by area but sometimes flying J is where I end up. I didn't reply to complain but please don't blame us if you pick a 24/7 truck stop for your layover.

Before I swapped my tires last year I had same problem with full length mud flap. What I did was swap out the clevis and rings for smaller ones to raise a couple of inches. Then I put on same size tires and have no issues without making a large $ mistake.

Is the cooktop on a slide out. Maybe the hose or line pinches when the slide moves? Just a thought.

I will fill the diesel tank before I enter so I have plenty of fuel to run the generator if needed. My wife is ready for an adventure.