huffypuff

Dave, could it be possible that a local rebuilder of electric motors could have taken care of it? Usually a starter and alternator repair shop. That's what we did when I worked for fleet that included motors for snow plows, winches, dump bodies and other things that have electric motors. You just don't throw the whole thing out for a motor. Tommy, I have ExtraRide and when I had a front jack blow a seal and scratch the cylinder they paid for new jack and labor. What they didn't pay for is freight, shop supply, and local taxes. That was added to my deductible and is normal with most extended warranty policies. I still saved $900 for having a extended warranty policy.

They don't even show the device. For all we know it could be pour in your tank once snake oil.

I know that you don't want to hear this but it sounds like antenna connection. Sorry!

When mine gets washed the box trips and red light comes on solid. I hold a strong magnet just to the right of the red light for about 5 seconds and you will hear a click when it reboots and the red light will go out. Then you go inside and turn the refrigerator back on.

I think we been spoof shopper, carrol and cworthy looking at their number of post. This thread should be locked and put away.

Shopper, It's not that Class A have more problems, it has more bells and whistles not usually found on class C. Electric sun shades, basement heat, dual zone heat and a/c electric flip down TV, air suspension, triple camera, electric awning just to name a few. I don't recommend a slide if you don't want any trouble.

Shopper, for the least bells and whistles why not consider a Roadtrek?

Slide in camper to class A is like comparing apple to oranges. Enough said and is way off the original person question.

Tires made in 2009 should still be good. I have the same tires and love them on my coach. I know RV tires are suppose to be long haul tires as so many tires are for short runs. I don't know what "Regional" means.

Brett, Yes I read about the bridge and wonder how they can still call it a Roadmaster. I have to call it a Roadliner or a Freightmaster. I think I stick to my 8 bagger until the big rig with the independent front suspension gets proven.

I didn't quote you and know that isn't what you said. I'm still not talking about chassis.

Now someone on here is saying class C is better while pointing out same problems with the RV unit, not chassis. All RV and equipment have all the same problems regardless of class. Why do we have to keep going over this? Thanks Jim Sims, I think denial should go to owning any RV. Oh in my early years I had to send my travel trailer back to the factory because of defect. Wallpaper shrink, cabinets coming apart, factory said I shouldn't tow over bumps and park in hot sun.

Yes, sir, Allegiance. And can I add upgrading?

Yes Monaco as well as other RV manufactures has changed hands often since the economy went down and caused a big hit to the RV market. That made them to build them cheaper outsourcing some big items such as chassis. Some of the other chassis makers got brought out by Freightliner to cut competition. My last coach chassis was made by Oshkosh and not making coach chassis in the US anymore. Last I check Monaco and Holiday Rambler still use the Roadmaster chassis. I know because they sent me an ad for 2015 Monaco Dynasty. Opps I stand corrected, I just look up and Roadmaster is now a custom modified Freightliner chassis.

How long is it between you using your RV? If you plug it in to shore power not all will maintain the chassis batteries. You can add a maintainer to your chassis batteries so it won't drain when sitting long periods of time. If batteries keeps getting run down it may sulfate and be no good. Two years is very soon to be sulfate but can happen. A long slow charge is what you should do to those batteries before testing.

A big box with its hood up would be a class C. Class A generally don't have hoods but access covers and 300K would more likely be a diesel pusher with the engine in the rear. As for money invested, all RVs lose their value as soon as you drive it off the lot. It's the same with cars. I purchase a new Cadillac and it lost a chunk of value as soon as I drove it off the lot. Should I buy something cheaper instead for less comfort? I will not, because when I drive I enjoy the comfort of both the Cadillac and my cushy RV. The payment on the RV is just another car payment to me, so why worry about that?

Chassis manufacture not going to buy back modified chassis as they are only responsible for the chassis and will refer you back to the RV builders. The RV builder isn't responsible for the chassis so they so they would refer you to the chassis builder. So who is going to buy back that lemon, you better get it in writing. I hope that clears things up shopper so the few buy back you see is possible a RV manufacture that build their own chassis. There was class A manufacture that had bad trailing arms on the rear of their coach of their smaller class A. Goodyear sold tires for coach knowing that it wasn't designed for long haul, that's not a class A fault. The bottom line is the more bells and whistles it has the more problems you can have with it. That's why I say get an extended warranty and not from the dealer. I got a nice warranty on a 2006 and used it twice and saved on repairs. One person said he seen cushy ride class A broken down on the road but I see different. Mostly fifth wheel pick up break down and old class c and a. My cushy ride class A may pull to the side of the road because my old kidneys can't hold it any longer.

I think reliability of a RV is more related to install appliances and accessories that is in any RV not necessarily just class A. I had a 93 class A diesel pusher and the problems with it was cargo lights some don't work from wiring, refrigerator has to be kicked started, hot water heater may or may not fire up the alarm system, sometimes the backup camera wouldn't turn on in reverse, the a/c compressor on engine seized the inside step light shorted, most the cargo doors latches with locks needed replacing. All of these problems were with the same appliances or accessories installed in most RVs. To say class A is unreliable is a lie as none of these problems were class A issues as the chassis was no problem even at 20 years when I traded it in. You will never get a buy back on a class C or super C because it's a modified chassis with two manufactures involved, one for chassis and one for the RV. High end Class A build their chassis from the ground up for their intended purpose.

I steer clear of salesman's that makes empty offers and false claims. All motor homes has problems that is why you get a warranty. Get an extended warranty also but not from the dealer. Ask us here we know good extended warranty companies that sell policy for less. BTW a Chevrolet 6500 rides like a truck and a class A with air ride rides like a coach.

This thread is nice to read as standards and labels are different for different classes. This seems to say that class As have higher requirements to receive their label. . http://community.fmca.com/topic/6688-rv-quality/

I love my class A with that being said do not make the first trip a long tour. Take a few short local trips to work out the kinks whatever class of RV they get. That way they can take it back to the dealer they brought it from to have repairs made. Then the long tour will go much better.

Yes we hit wind on rt 10 in western TX and eastern AZ it didn't affect us to bad. Fuel mileage went from 9 to 6.6 and had to slow a bit. We saw saw a fifth wheel pulled by a tractor almost lose it. It was wiping it's tail across both lanes and I was sure it was going to jackknife but he recovered thank goodness. When he slowed down more we got around him.

I use a wash and wax and only wash the roof if I end up driving in the rain. That's when the roof gets dirty. Otherwise the sides clean easy with the wash and wax and long handle soft brush I think I got from Costco. You have to dry it or the wax could leave spots.

I use the economy mode and at times i find it's not best to use it. The economy mode is set by pressing the up arrow and then the mode button on my 6 speed. Good to use on flat land but in hilly or mountain grades will hurt speed and fuel mileage. Sometimes it is best for the transmission to downshift sooner.

Good Luck, please don't drive in it.