jleamont

Kay, that is still one of our favorite campgrounds, absolutely love that place!

OMG!! That's great!! Tell Sue don't text my DW with those photos ill be decorating campsites going forward

Blue Magic Metal polishing cream and a Mothers polishing cone. Takes about 10 minutes a wheel. I put the polishing cone on a cordless drill after smearing the cream on the wheels and go at it, wipe it off when done with a towel. The polish is safe on clear coated wheels (which those are).

None that I am aware of. If it were my coach I would run with it on most times since the coach is heavy, it would be the same as carrying a load/hauling (keep in mind that is a pick up truck powertrain under all of that coach). Gas is cheaper then transmission replacements from it hunting/shifting up and down. Said another way, if it wasn't hunting for gears I would leave it off to save some fuel, as soon as it begins up and down shifting frequently I would turn it on. After a bit of becoming more familiarized with the coach you will learn when to use it and when its not needed. I have reprogrammed several trucks to turn that on automatically as they were always heavy (rental trucks are usually programmed that way from the factory), in a fleet you have to make the truck smarter than the operator to save on expensive repairs.

I wont start ours up from the time its winterized (mid November) until the first trip (late March- early April) just for the reason of introducing moisture to the crankcase. With the roads treated with calcium chloride and rock salt after the first snow fall there is NO WAY I'm putting our coach onto that stuff. I have already postponed our first trip in previous years due to lack of rain to wash the caustic stuff off of the roads. When I read about the corrosion issue causing liner jacking it just didn't make sense, but with the newer engines not being of the strength or quality of the older ones you just never know. I figured if I read it somewhere most likely many others did as well and would ask the question and better to get in front of it. The person advising got the info from a Cummins dealer technician, which as we all know could have been misinterpreted.

Cal, Welcome! the tow haul feature on the ford is explained below. Since it is a motorhome and it is heavy I recommend leaving it on all the time unless you are on slippery roadways as explained below. Some are programmed that way others are forgotten about.

Denver EURO RV mattress https://www.lci1.com/rv-supreme-euro-top make by Lippert, now you know the root cause of the failure , terrible company!!! It has progressively become more uncomfortable every time you sleep on it.

We have a 2" foam topper and a down mattress topper on the sleep number in the house, made a huge difference. We are actively seeking a sleep number for the coach, once the right sale comes along we are going to purchase one. When you travel in the coach and can't wait to get home for a good nights sleep it's time to make a change.

Thank you. Have you ever heard of anything like this? It contradicts the concept of completing a warm up cycle, and why only those two engines, there are others with liners. Kinda makes me wonder if it only affects certain years with some different metals internally causing a new concern.

Brett, just read (social media ) where Cummins recommends running the ISM and ISX frequently for a few minutes per week to stop Dielectric corrosion at the top of the piston liner. can you ask your contact if that makes any sense? It was a first for me. Sorry not running them in short bursts came up and triggered my memory...

Maybe I'm missing something I cant find one without Bleach https://www.clorox.com/products/

My goose eggs are going upside down, sign of distress

Bill have you tried it yet? Some of those small compressors just don't have enough CFM to handle a big job like that.

I have worked in several shops in PA with poor quality air systems. Usually the design without a drop off will accumulate water in the lines between the compressor and work station ultimately send it into your tools or tires. I can remember the Firestone recall 10+ years ago working at a Ford dealer, airing up tires pulling the chuck away and shooting water two bays down, that was a common thing at that dealer and no one cared to do anything about it. Many tires left there with water in them. I had one BMW come in from a quick lube place a few years prior with a horrible vibration, the quick lube shop pumped grease into all 4 valve stems and into the tires I scooped handfuls of grease out of those tires . Told the customer to replace them, they wouldn't hear of it...just too expensive . Someday I'm going to write a book of the stupid things I have seen in the automobile/truck and RV repair businesses over the years. Back to the OP, I use the onboard system with a gauge/cheater device I built. I can purge the air off to trip the governor, watch it rise up on the gauge in my hand and reopen the air into the tires.

Isn't this the same as Clorox? So if not what should be utilized Clorox stain lifter ?

I gave up on roadside assistance programs. With technology today its like tossing good money out the window. Companies like the ones mentioned above contract the cheapest vendors they can find (often its less than decent vendors that have no work due to their reputation), then beat them for cheaper rates. To amplify the problem, when these less than par vendors see the phone number on their phone they often wont answer it unless at a convenient time for them. Even they don't want to handle calls for these companies that pay so little. You might have to call a few in an area to get someone willing to work on a motorhome as most shops cant stand coaches due to the way some manufactures pack stuff in they are often almost impossible to work on. Here is a website that might help anyone. https://www.truckdown.com/

Mike, do you have a NAPA near you? Check there pricing if so. I put three of these in our coach this past spring; https://www.napaonline.com/p/NBE7234 Attributes Battery BCI #: Group 31 Battery Cold Cranking Amps @ 0 Degrees F: 1125 CCA Battery Cranking Amps @ 32 Degrees F: 1380 Battery Posts Type: Stud Battery Reserve Capacity (Minutes): 195 min Battery Voltage: 12 Volts Battery Warranty in Months: 36 Battery Weight: 61 lbs Height: 9 1/2 in. Length: 13 in. UNSPSC: 25191806 Width: 6 3/4 in. I have no luck with OEM batteries at work, usually only last 1-2 years and die, much lighter also which makes me think they are built to a different spec.

Great idea to ask questions! You hit the nail on the head, most don't ask until its too late. Hydraulic jacks have a stop on the ram inside the cylinder, unless that fails its not an issue to worry about. Battery light; as mentioned those will need to be load tested individually, if you look on the sides of the battery it will have a round sticker with something like B1 which is a date code, chart is below to identify when it was made.

If it shut itself down, that's a relatively expensive problem that a regen will not fix, the filter will have to be removed, cleaned and reinstalled. If you shut it down in the middle of a regen, that's worse, all of that high temperature within the exhaust system and no air flow will probably crack the filter and or damage sensors ($$$$$) from an improper shut down. Part of a regen is a cool down cycle in the end, that is a crucial task. Sounds like the filter pressure differential is out of spec and the engine is in Derate (power cut back, limp mode), I'm guessing the filter is plugged to a point where a forced regen will not cure the problem. You will need to get that to an authorized Cummins shop ASAP.

Wait until January in PA then I'll need that photo to survive

Great site and view. thanks for the information.

Rich, those came from the Ford service manual for his year F53. The F53 is wired for exterior lighting and comes with a 7way trailer plug from ford, the body company just plugs their harness into the Ford for exterior lighting at the take offs shown in the schematic.

Ok, the common item I see is the trailer plug on the rear, when you turn the ignition on it energizes a power feed to the plug, if there is a short back there it could back feed down the parking light circuit. Un plug the trailer plug right behind the 7 way, replace the fuse and try it again.

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