jleamont

What's the concern with the air line between toad and coach, an air line with two air chucks is pretty darn strong? Id be more concerned with all of the electronics in the interior of the toad, toad battery maintaining, drilling into the toad to mount cables and pulleys, potential brake pedal binding while driving the toad. My biggest concern; Fully Proportional was an absolute MUST! I was tired of the toad banging into the tow bar then the brakes would apply, pull over, get out adjust the box in the Jeep, get back in, only to see smoke from the toad tires when I'm slowing down to stop. It got old real fast, then the brakes respond differently due to brake temperatures, so here we go again, get out adjust, get back in drive away...... if you think fully proportional isn't necessary, wait until someone pulls out in front of you and need the toad at 100% braking but its only set to a light tug . Been there done that. Five, how is the new BlueOx patriot? I had the older model, it seemed to work ok, it did make me feel better it was there and I was legal with it. What soured me, parts were discontinued, once they were exhausted I put it out front for the trash man, not a happy camper moment on a three year old unit. I also never had a good spot for it when it was removed.

If it were me I would factor DEF into cost per mile, most wont as it will make the reality hurt. While DEF would be a start the real eye opener would be maintenance cost per mile on a non emissions coach vs. a newer coach with the same miles. I know what I see at work and the variance is disgusting.

A little closer...I use these people for anything related like that. They made me covers for my service trucks to protect the air compressors, generators and hose reels. They also altered the nose bra on the coach when I couldn't find one make, model specific. http://www.maupholstery.com/

Yup! The instructions made it out to be harder than it actually was. All you really want is no slack or too tight so the brakes are applied all the time. Both jeeps Herman, I still have the cylinder from the 03 on my tool box. The 2014 was tricky but not terrible, maybe added 1/2 hour to the project.

Was M&G mentioned yet . Sorry....It is a very simple system to install, especially on a Jeep Wrangler. Best bang for the buck in my opinion. A friend purchased another brand and it took him 7 hours to do the install. M&G took me less than an hour.

Look like this? These are VDO.

No one knew I could dance

Bill, I had a coworker that did a Hydrogen conversion on a Dodge Ram with a hemi. That was pretty neat, his average mpg was 36 over 40 on the highway. 1500 Ram 4 door 4x4 Big Horn edition. I believe it was distilled water and baking soda reservoirs under the hood that were electrically charged.

Herman, I actually had that happen once, wasn't a pleasant experience, they were red ants

RSBILL, forget the propane, DW ready to slap you yet for tinkering with something else . You met mine, every time I walk outside, I get 50 questions, she can sense it

I don't get that either! DW and I talk about that all the time. We have friends that parked their trailer and skirted the bottom, now they stare at the same stuff all the time, other trailers with skirts . Worse for a motorhome in my opinion, I'm curious also, does it save money, thoughts...why?

Full moon, eclipse and most of you are at high altitudes, explains it all this is why I love you guys. Roger, I had the same HW heater as you on the last coach, one thing I noticed when I removed it, (replaced the entire unit with a tank less) you can never actually drain the tank completely, the plug on the tank is actually a few inches up the side wall, not much but just enough for minerals to collect in the bottom.

RSbill, just thinking about this setup if it were on our coach. Between the turbo and air filter I have a T within the duct work, that is where my air compressor pulls clean air from. Looks like a 2" hose connected. If this only injects at certain boost ranges it should be under heavy suction and pull the propane toward the turbocharger, in theory. But what's going to win the battle, turbocharger or air compressor, assuming the compressor is also on building air? I cant imagine what propane would do if introduced into the compressor and actually compressed, I would think it would explode. Maybe the solution would be to install a dedicated air filter for the compressor and just separate it from the system?

As Brett mentioned above, I have given this some thought last trip as to why my filters looked horrible in such a short time. My Fass pump moves 85 gallons an hour, just driving I'm polishing my fuel. 150 gallon tank with 134 of useable fuel space. That's a lot of fuel passing through both filters and back to the tank. After the fuel disaster last year I put additives in every tank for several reasons. Lubricant and biocides are my most important, cetane boost is another. Cheap insurance!

While I was never near one that exploded, I was in the room next to it, shook the building. We had a 225/70R19.5 let go on the shop floor, went up and dented the overhead ceiling which was at least an 18' leap. We thought a truck fell off the lift it was so loud. No one was hurt, we had 12' hoses on our tire chucks to keep everyone away, company was too cheap to purchase cages.

I have found the best tool for avoiding stone chips is increasing your following distance. I would never put that stuff back on anything.

Lyle, I did a walk through at a campground of a new Dutch Star 4369 I believe was the floor plan, it had a rear door and bath and 1/2, Nice coach. It was one of the only few that I have heard about that they picked up from the dealer, had it for 2 months went out to CA and back to PA and NO problems with anything Speaking of escape options...our coach only has an escape window in the bedroom. Is that common? I would think one up front would be a good idea also. I'm guessing Monaco's mind set was to use the front door for the people sleeping up front..Depending on where a fire starts that may not be suitable. Thoughts?

Well that's one way of getting out of torqueing the wheels properly .

Just went through the post, didn't see the link or the manufacture. I did find this on the web. I still want Erniee's recommendation. http://www.americanstairtreads.com/rubber-stair-treads/

Blake, I am thinking about pulling the carpet in the stair well and installing wood that matches the rest of the interior, leaving the carpet at the top (main floor) alone. Where is your post when Erniee did the work? I believe he posted the link on that post.

Anyone in the PA area specifically Lancaster County area, highly recommend this place, while it is a GM dealer they do coach work also. Saw the end result on two Tiffin's that were crunched and was very impressed, even replaced the Clear nose bra on the one. Out here its hard to find a place that will work on anything that large, especially for collision work. Out truck shopping and stumbled upon it, found it interesting they will do body work on Coaches. http://www.newhollandjohnsauderauto.com/Collision-Center/?utm_source=GoogleMyBusiness&utm_medium=SERP&utm_campaign=GoogleMyBusiness

Erniee, can you attach the link for the step treads? Mine are in need of new ones and they are black and ugly, starting to lift. Curious, any issues with the top one being a storage compartment for installation? thanks

102 muggy or dry?

Almost identical to the one I have, http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200451163_200451163?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Automotive > Tire Equipment > Bead Seaters&utm_campaign=TSI&utm_content=121488&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvaPlz8bc1QIVmbfACh3-NwMnEAQYAyABEgJsXfD_BwE Did they have one of these for the removal and installation? I love this tool; https://www.imperialsupplies.com/item/9118154?service=Search