jleamont

dddlin, what area are you planning on repairing? The reason I ask is if it were a seam I would use the tape rather than the Dicor lap sealant. Here is a link to the tape https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=rv+tape+eternabond&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=153683479395&hvpos=1t1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7686784629803387707&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007366&hvtargid=kwd-131762088733&ref=pd_sl_e5jmukv0c_b If you are sealing around roof openings i.e. vents I clean off any excess with a putty knife, just be sure to be careful of the roof itself and re apply the lap sealant. Lap sealant link; https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-501LSW-1-Self-Leveling-Sealant-Pack/dp/B00G6KGPFM Here's a video on how to do it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXUcBdVnhwI Its not difficult, but can consume some time, on a good note the Dicor product is pretty forgiving on the quality of your prep work.

Welcome!

I have backed ours up a few times, lucky I was straight and only had to back up 5 feet or so. I was looking in the camera for the toad wheels to begin to turn, then I would have stopped and unhooked, they stayed straight the entire time. I read a post one time where a guy ran out of fuel two businesses down from a fuel station in a 45' coach and he was pulling an F-150, he put the truck in low range and pushed the coach into the fuel station via the tow bar. I cringed as I read it

And that folks is why I don't fly!

Nice looking unit, enjoy!

I was thinking the same, do you have any dock lights?

What is the purpose of the light?

Road light, if that is in fact controlling dock lights that's a bit misleading. I wouldn't recommend using them while on the road as implied by the name. We have two switches Rear dock lights and Side dock lights. They are great when pulling into a dark campsite. Scare lights are still comical

Carl, we don't have any OTR trucks. All are local delivery inner city to suburbs. 10-16 stops a day to local merchants traffic all that good stuff. I pulled an invoice and looked, the last ISL that was clogged was at 221,000 miles in a straight truck (1st time it was pulled) and the cost to correct it was $3500.00 Fixing the root cause and pulling the DPF sending it out for cleaning and reinstalling, it was performed by a Freightliner dealer also. That's probably a good $$ reference number for the OP. The truck is a 2011 with SCR.

Typically....longer than the coach itself would last, same as a pickup truck with the same technology. Usually a mechanical failure will take it out, I.e. coolant could cause it to crack if introduced. Heavy trucks should see one replacement in their lifetime as long as nothing damages it. I have heard of the pre DEF or SCR technology engines having some problems (2007-2010) (engine year not coach year). While the engines with SCR technology are more complex they are better on fuel and seem to perform better than the first generation (07-10).

Carl, what happened to your Particulate filter? You couldn't possibly have 300000 miles on it. That's when we swap them at work unless something fails and takes one out earlier I.e driver ignores several regen requests, but even then we pull them and have them cleaned and baked and put back in. Did have one with diesel in the def tank (full tank of diesel) it regened and looked like a flamethrower, that one was trash after that.

YUP, I saw that he's still good with a Jeep, not the others for off road. Those hydraulic viscous couplers on the AWD's make a real mess when they scatter across the road

Ok, here is what is in the Ford service manual, the base part number is 2C204A

objackie, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! We tow a 2014 Jeep Wrangler 4x4 4 door. Easy to set up as a toad and it tows nice. Interior room is decent. If you are looking for ground clearance I am assuming you plan of off road adventures, for that reason I wouldn't recommend the Subaru or the Ford Escape, neither are a true 4x4 and off roading would really take its toll on them as the AWD system doesn't apply a direct link to each wheel end like a true 4x4 with a shifter or selector switch. They are hydraulic coupled AWD systems meant to assist in slippery situation's not constantly in an off road environment. I learned that the hard way a few years ago on both manufactures

Well, I'm not actually afraid of heights....I'm afraid of falling

It just dawned on me. The ISC was discontinued a few years back. Its either an ISB or ISL in the HP range listed above. ISB is 200-360HP/ 520-800 TQ ISL is 300-450HP/ 1000-1250 TQ

Rich, getting under the toppers is a real painful process. I use a product from the RV store for slide seals, I wrap an old shirt around a broom handle, soak it down with the spray product and push it along the upper seal from each end. That seems to work but they are getting delicate from age. I think 2017 is the year to replace the wiper seals. It looks like the hardest part will be removing the toppers and laying them onto the roof for the upper seal access. This makes it really bad for me as I don't like heights

Also, all of the "Recent Posts" are highlighted as if I didn't read them already when I just did, now when I click on them to open the link, they remain highlighted. Minor problem but non the less there is something wrong. Thank you,

Changed this post, Brett figured it out..

Check this company out: http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com/products/dinghy-towing-harnesses/lincoln.html You will have to see if the 2015 and 2016 are the same, it might warrant a call to Hopkins. They could probably wire it from scratch with diodes right at the tail lights since I believe that car has a module in the rear that turns the rear lighting on.

What years are you looking at? We landed the larger engine due to the size and weight of the coach (and an upgrade ordered by the previous owner), looking back I'm glad we did, the heavier coaches have more real woods inside vs laminates, ceramic tile floor vs vinyl. We chose to buy pre emissions years, with that being said its hard to locate nice ones up here in the Northeast, but it can be done. I'm a bit of a gear head, so for me more power is always a good thing. the only thing that would shy me away is if the engine is physically larger and it created a problem with space in the engine bay for repairs.

Getting ready to put the coach away for the season and I wanted to update everyone following this post on the progress. Exhaust temp gauge is connected and I had the opportunity to run with it on our last trip along with the new toad which is heavier. It performed as I expected it to, and it climbs rapidly when you pull a hill, so it became a challenge to see what I could accomplish (yea, I sunk my foot into it a few times). I was able to hit 1100 degrees at full throttle pulling a hill, when I dropped down a gear so did the temp by around 200 degrees even with my back into it after the down shift. My average temp running down the highway was 600 degrees at cruise, 6th gear at 62 MPH. I was surprised to see how long the engine actually took to cool down to where I felt comfortable to shut it down, almost a full 10 minutes of idle before it dropped into the 300 degree range, I almost thought it wasn't going to happen. Most of this was accomplished at check in while I was getting our paperwork from the guard shack, then idle over to our site, just slightly tipping the throttle (which made it climb slightly), pull in to our site, wait for the compressor finish building air and I was under 400, but still convinced it could be cooler, so I sat for another 1-2 minutes and it dropped a little more so I shut it down. You can really digest how an engine is performing while monitoring fuel pressure, EGT and Boost (mechanical boost gauge). We have accumulated approximately 1200 miles on the conversion so far and it runs fantastic. Starting to plan trips for next year and getting excited.

jbikesv, the weight of the coach and wind resistance will play a huge part in this. if you are looking at two coach's close in weight and size one with a smaller engine could be worse on fuel since it will be working harder. So a small DP with a 360HP engine just might out perform the 400HP coach if the unit is significantly lighter. We drove a few newer coaches with 330HP engines two years ago, I found myself with my foot heavy on the accelerator due to the coach size and HP/Torque rating just to drive along. Our coach is heavier but also has 70 more HP and 400lbft of torque over those, I press lightly on the accelerator to move along, RPMs are always low, my MPG's are great, for the most part. If I have a strong head wind or running mountains it drops 2 MPG on average. The heavy coach with the 400HP might crest the top of the hill at 35, the lower HP one might as well. Drive both or many and feel them out, take notes on how they perform.

Not sure how I missed this post until now....but great picture! Since you are so close to us maybe one trip next season our paths will cross. If you happen to stumble onto any good campgrounds in the area please pass it on.

Bill, thanks for the link, I had one pop on Saturday, thought I was being shot at, good cardio anyway .