jleamont

Yea, we look at state parks as tent sites only, you are groomed to that when you live up here. On occasion we are proven wrong but not often. Elsewhere in the country it's a different story. I always book Castaways on the off season, which for them can also be early June, with the exception of Memorial Day weekend.

Glad it fixed you up.

Carl, at least I'm running with the popular club .

There is also a shortage of campgrounds up in the area that can house a larger coach (over 27 feet), then you throw a 50 amp site on top of that...forget about it! You will spend so much time searching that will make you more exhausted than driving the taxes and cost of living is all so out of sight it drives up the price per night. So the ones that offer 50 amp big rig charge a premium, these CG's also happen to be newer with a lot of amenities so that also adds to the cost. Before you know it Wal-Mart and Cracker Barrel become more desirable for a one nighter. I always look at safety in the area we are located vs the price of one night in a CG, depending on where we are I weigh out my options and risks. A one night stay in Georgia along I95 the last time cost me $10.00, up here its a full charge of $80.00 (24 hour rate). Other parts of the county it seems like once they close the rate changes for an overnight stop as long as you are out by a certain time If for only to get some sleep and plug the coach in vs run the generator, the generator is going to run all night and I'm going to pass on the CG. Since I don't own a CG I really cannot comment why they do that but a prorated charge might be appealing enough for me to sway the opposite direction. For a 8-10 hour stay I'm not paying a 24 hour rate, especially at those prices.

WOW, I have heard of that happening before . I am just glad it stopped there and not landed on the passenger seat. Last week I was in Maine and a guy hit a Moose with a pickup, it looked like he fought an excavator and lost. Bill, nice colors on that bus, please post some photos.

I have experienced a few issues, here they are. you type a response, click "submit reply" and its gone, cannot view it or locate your response, or the screen reverts back to the Forum home page. The notifications "bell" and "envelope" in the upper corner; if you receive a PM, you get two notifications, one on the bell and one on the envelope, once you open the envelope the bell remains with a 1, until you click it and read it twice. This works the opposite on a notification, when you have.... lets say Five notifications, you open the first one and it marks all of them all as read and the other Four notifications are no longer highlighted as if you have read them, when you didn't click on them. These have happened on a Windows PC and Apple product, neither acted different, same concerns. I tried to open the Forum on Google Chrome just to see if it would respond better and it made no difference.

Brett, I will post my problems on the issues in the "locked out of the FMCA website" post on the "forum support tab" so we don't cloud up this post. Thank you

cjmaher, welcome! Your ABS sensor I believe is located in the rear axle housing differential, not at each wheel end. I tried to verify but Ford is experiencing website problems. They are usually located in the center portion of the rear axle housing and are a common point of failure, mostly due to water in the connector which results in corrosion. What issues are you having in particular with the ABS system? It should look like this.

Keon, We stayed at the Kings Dominion CG this past year, nice CG, we weren't fans of the amusement park. After you have been to Disney its tough to go somewhere else and be satisfied, especially at their rates. If you want Civil war stuff head to Gettysburg PA, its not far from you and you will have a lot to keep you entertained. If you do choose to go that route Gettysburg Campground is our favorite, if you want a day to just sit and relax they have a packed schedule of activities for kids. If you are looking for an amusement park I recommend Knoebels in Elysburg PA, no admission fee you just pay for the rides and the park is full of history, it has been there since the 20's. They have a CG I don't recommend staying there, if you have the toad stay just down the street at JD campground, they have nice large sites and full hookups (Knoebels sites are not level and only have 30amp electric, no water or sewer and their bath houses are...well that's another story) plus if I wanted to use bathhouses Id buy a tent. Next summer we are headed for Cape Canaveral while we park the coach at Fort Wilderness, then onto the Keys, St Augustine and maybe Sanibel island. We are in the planning stage for that trip and I haven't began to look for CG's yet.

Mine will leak in the bottom corner of the rain is heavy, the wiper seals don't flip out, so when the DW extends them I walk around with a tool I made to flip them out. Next year I will replace them since they are 14 years old and really should flip out on their own. When the weather gets extreme AKA wind over 30 they come in and stay in. My slides only seal on the top and sides, the bottom has a thick seal that rides along the metal bottom of the slide, so when the wipers are not flipped out the water channels inside behind the bottom wiper and comes in.

When I have an extra $500 I will put the lights under the coach, boogey lights are expensive, they do look good!! Carl have your friend ask the light manufacturer if his are dimmable, if so ask them if they make one or can recommend a dimmer.

Carl, I have LED porch lights, our coach has two and they are made by thin lite. They were yellow fluorescent I switched them to white LED since I couldn't see in the dark. Well now the are so bright I lite up the campsite like a fire truck on an accident scene . You probably already guessed it we don't use them now. I also have LEDs built into the awning so when it's all the way out the lights come with it, those are also too bright. I am going to experiment with installing a dimmer on the awning lights, the only good thing is they point straight down so I just annoy everyone on our campsite, not the neighbors.

I had one customer come in asking for this to be installed. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/63028/10002/-1 I did it and it worked but ONLY in conjunction with the existing parking brake just to help apply a little more stopping force and these were on older vehicles (trucks, same design, same axles and parts) with manual transmissions where "PARK" wasn't an option as they needed to run the engine and exit the vehicle in a temporary situation, not the case in your situation. Since this is a new vehicle your local Ford dealer should be consulting with Ford for a solution.

According to the Winnebago website it is an 18,000 gvwr chassis. https://winnebagoind.com/products/class-a-gas/2017/vista-lx/specifications With that being said I have had experience with this design. The parking brake shoes are located inside of the rear brake rotors (Drum in Hat design), I have also had the experience of them not holding, this is a design that is a carry over on the F-series super duty. I have had some luck if the full system was disassembled, lubed (shoe backing plates and actuators (manual) same as a drum brake automobile when you perform a brake replacement) and make certain the cables are operating properly. Keep in mind they could be binding since the chassis probably sat outside for awhile prior to it being built on out in the weather. It is a pain staking process, I have seen a few that still will not hold that well after, better but not perfect. Usually it was a fully loaded truck which is where your RV would fall into the same category. Fords answer then was always use park, however it is a real bear to pull the shifter out of park on a hill with all of that weight up against it. The actuator that the cable pulls on, I have seen them bind under load, but work fine on the bench, just a good lube will solve that and where it rides against the shoe. Cleanliness and proper lubrication, adjustments and a smooth clean inner rotor surface are all critical. Photo below of the Drum in Hat design, I have actually drove them with the brake lightly onto seat the drum surface to the shoe, then readjusted. You just do not want them to overheat, like a said above it is a pain staking process where every detail is critical.

Bill, I didn't believe it until I cut one open on a band saw. After I did that I found videos on you tube, should have looked there first . I was shocked there was an actual build up inside, like a yellow greenish sludge in some spots, others were hard like teeth tarter. The addition of a coolant filter is supposed to correct the problem, I always overkilled and replaced the EGR cooler with an aftermarket one that was stainless steel and welded for added security. You don't make happy customers when the expensive repair only lasts a few years and they are back again. Here is a video on a Ford Powerstroke 6.0L (AKA Navistar VT365 V8 turbo diesel, the predecessor to the Maxxforce 7). This engine (in the video) is equipped with the HEUI fuel system design that is found in the CAT 3126 and C7 (not the C7S released in 07 and was only around for 2 years) the Powerstroke 7.3L, and most of the Navistar DT series pre emissions engines (T444, DT466 etc..), obviously they just do not have the EGR system, but the same basics do apply on how critical an oil cooler plays on your engine.

Tunedude, did they show you the failed turbocharger? I have had to take them apart and un seize the unison ring so the vanes would operate and clean out the scale. This is common as a little antifreeze passes through it will cause the turbo to build up scale inside and the variable vanes will stick. This usually occurs over time as the cooler is allowing antifreeze to pass into the exhaust before the big cooler failure that leaves you stranded. It's uncommon for an EGR cooler to burst all at once. The root cause for the EGR cooler failure (in most instances) is mostly caused by the engine oil cooler partially clogging up inside and the coolant in the EGR cooler gets too hot due to low circulation, it will begin to deteriorate the solder joints in the EGR cooler as the over heated antifreeze (often boiling) leaves the oil cooler in route to the EGR cooler, causing it to leak over time. I always replace the oil cooler at the same time, if the engine is not equipped with a coolant filter one gets plumbed at that time to stop the next clogged oil cooler. A clean cooling system is a happy cooling system. I have also sourced EGR coolers that are welded internally rather than soldered, they are usually 2x the price but its the last time you will replace it.

Wow, great minds think alike. I also carry a small assortment along with faucet supply line o-rings.

No, and thank you for the link

1nshort, Welcome!!

I used Roadmaster at work for our shop runner trucks we would use to fetch tractors for maintenance. Always towed the small pickup back via Pintle hook and a Roadmaster tow bar. Those were heavily abused and Never had a problem. I have a Demco Commander for the last 5 years, no problems no repairs or rebuilds. Looks and works as if it was new and it sits out in the weather all year. A few things I like about it, the light cord and safety cables are teathered to it so it stays organized and everything is right there.

What was the cause of the problem?

Smoke, snap a picture of the controller and post it. That just might jog someone's memory.

I found it odd but all we had on propane was the Norcold refrigerator and the cooktop with a giant tank. Now that both are gone I lightened up the coach and gained some storage space. An added bonus, I can drive through tunnels now on the highway legally. I was carrying enough propane before to be considered a HAZMAT and had to detour.

Blake, we have the same setup as you. I believe my flange on the floor is spun so the bolts will not align with a flange mounted toilet. I don't want to alter the pipe so I was looking for a foot pedal toilet that mounts to the floor just as the Binford 6100 noisemaker .

Blake, does your new toilet bolt to the floor or the pipe? Our electric always "grinds" there is no quiet potty time in our coach, and it was rebuilt, the noise level didn't change as I hoped. Everyone knows when you flush it. I really, really don't like this toilet.