jleamont

Frank, CAT used a different design for the regeneration process (sending fuel down to the filter for cleaning) it was a terrible design that is very problematic and expensive to keep operating properly. It's basically a heating oil furnace head with a spark plug. Do a web search and read all of the class action law suites. This ultimately resulted in them backing out of the on-highway engine program. They claim it was for other reasons but you know how that goes.

Frank, since you have experience with Diesel power you are probably aware of the last generation of CAT engines with a diesel particulate filter. I would avoid them at all costs. They were manufactured in 07 and part of 08. The older CAT products had a few blips in different models and years but so do all engines. From testing I have done and my career they were great engines a little noiser and a little harder on fuel then their competition but solid. I believe you are on the right track with the list of brands above. One thing I always tell people, compare the engine compartment layout and access to each brand. If you can't access it the repair and maintenance of cost will escalate, if you are doing it yourself you will appreciate doing your homework upfront. If it were me I would not be searching cookie cutter coaches. In my opinion the quality is lacking to keep costs down, with depreciation the way it is it's much easier to step into a high end coach with a few years on it for not a lot of money. Again in my opinion these coaches will last longer and cost less to keep on the road. enjoy the road

Thanks Bill

Manifolds are cheaper and easier to replace than engines. I put enough anti seize on every fastener you could do it over with a pair of pliers. I am going to add insulation to the engine compartment, it's deteriorating from age.

Bill, I got mine connected now so I will keep an eye on it. The instructions were complicated, but the actual installation was simple. Due to the distance of the probe lead I have a Shunt module and another module that had to be wired in. Not using the coach until next weekend pulling the new Toad. And I haven't driven it since the repair.

Rich, it is one of those "give and take" things. While I see the benefit of the blanket I don't want to create other issues. I guess the real question is does the exhaust manifold cool from the outside or inside? If inside, the blanket is of no concern that I can see. I would like to connect with a test on a DP to see how it runs in an test environment. Not on my coach for obvious reasons. When I Googled it there is a guy on IRV that has a blanket on his ISM for 12 years and over 120,000 miles, which was impressive, it cut down his bedroom temps and no cracked manifolds yet. I think we all can agree to cut the temps in the engine compartment down would be a great benefit, especially in the hot weather, if I can get more miles out of a manifold that would be another benefit, especially for the cost of the blanket, they are not expensive. If it does as advertised and provided more power for the cost of the blanket it would be a bonus. The first turbo that melts down and tosses parts into the CAC and intake would be a huge fail on everything, that is where my concern lays.

After doing some more research I am reading the manifolds crack from cooling down too quickly. This is the benefit of the "manifold blanket" and exhaust wrap products. I can understand that in cooler temperatures but what about a hot summer day in the south pulling a hill? Since the turbocharger is lubricated with lube oil from the crank case, if it gets too hot that will cook off, or is it flowing too fast through the turbo. Any thermal engineers on here?

Still kicking myself for not buying the one we looked at in 14'

Ernie, my star treads are starting to lift. and the carpet in the stair well is not bad, but I was thinking about replacing it with something else, jut not sure. My stairs have the same product Ray posted on this thread. The toe kick going up is a mirror, the sides are carpet. Any ideas and how does the tread apply, what type of glue? Oh and the top step is also a compartment with hinges on ours, will that matter?

If this were my coach...I would peek up there, if any mold it all comes down and rebuild, if no mold I would glue that back up, stain some trim and attach it to the ceiling. A custom ceiling I would have. The aesthetics would look nice but it would also serve a purpose. Before any interior work was started, find what caused this and fix it. I suspect a water leak.

Frank, don't get too overly excited about the HP, most of that was bumped to compensate for the emissions system that is stealing HP, depending on your current HP it night be close to a wash or only a slight gain. A road test under your conditions might be worthy to see just how much better it actually performs. If it is lighter I would also question WHY?

I have used equal on many occasions, the bags are not supposed to break until the tire is aired up. If there was a bead leak caused by the product the process was done incorrectly i.e leaking bag tossed in without looking. I don't care for the product since it takes so much time to clean it up when you break a tire down but it does work. Centramatics are expensive for a fleet, on a coach it should be standard equipment in my opinion, this is where equal and the others are useful. We Match mount our tires at work, here is the definition; Match mounting tires on wheels is a process where a tire's installed position on the wheel is specifically selected to help minimize the final combination's force variation and/or imbalance. It works and we order them from the factory this way also.

Carl, just like why does the F53 come without a trackbar? My guess is to keep costs down...?

Bill, here is where he got his info from. Also, as we all know if with any business you get what you get depending on whom you speak to when you call. If I spent that much on a 45' bus like his friend and I got turned away I'd be upset. Plus Carl is an ex Tiffin owner, he has plenty of experience in RedBay. What surprises me, many visit that place a lot more than they should and yet they are ok with that. If I had one and had to take it there for good quality warranty repairs and other work, I'd ask myself, why do I have to go here, dealer support weak? Why is my new coach broke again? Just a thought.

What type of "service" do they do In Red Bay? Basic oil changes etc besides warranty work? Just asking for a friend that may need that place.

Nope, we're going all green Kay, planting grass on the roof also. Trying for a tax break.

Rich, great picture! That folks is the beginning of a really bad day

Mike, just as Rich said, not uncommon for them to be hidden under the counter. Might not be a bad idea to trace the cold water line. Sounds like you have a hidden filter tucked away. Keep in mind it might not be in a place that makes sense for access so keep an open mind while hunting.

So....the first thing that comes to mind....If you Build it right the first time then Fix it right the first time would be a moot point....correct?

Here's a link to the manifold blanket kits. Bill, they make these for the 5.9 that are a direct fit, let use your coach as a test http://turbo-performance-products.myshopify.com/products/12-24-valve-cummins-manifold-blanket-fits-stock-and-aftermarket-3-piece-manifolds

Here's an article written I found; http://www.landlinemag.com/Magazine/2005/AugSep/BottomLine/exhaustive-research.aspx

Herman, that was my thoughts exactly!! But there are companies that make a pre made manifold and turbo wrap kit that is supposed to help . I sat and thought about it and all I can think of is it will allow them to cool at a controlled rate. I have no idea and no experience with it. The only two benefits I can see in a DP; 1, if you have a oil leak you would be less likely to go up in flames. 2, engine bay temps would be lower. I have no idea what the cons would be. I am going to wrap my down pipe out of the turbo, its too close to the transmission for my comfort.

I was considering 12-14 so it could be welded without a bunch of warpage. I found the elbows and straight pipe for sale on the web. I just need dimensions and I will be all set. Ever since I saw the engine bay in a Newell I have wanted to make it shine. The Newell I saw was lined in mirrored stainless steel and everything was shiny . 18 gauge is just a tad thicker than sheet metal. Bill, ever hear of anyone wrapping their exhaust manifolds on a turbo diesel to stop them from cracking? What's your thoughts?

Wow, that's great!!

Kay, I will put a caliper on it and see. What size exhaust can the typically bend? I was considering 12 or 14 gauge. i don't know why but suddenly I have an urge to polish it so it looks pretty