jleamont

Blake, are your house batteries tied down or just sitting there? If you stumble on replacement straps let me know, mine have the plastic buckles and most have broken, so I tied them together, now the webbing is frayed. Our coach could us some TLC, maybe clean and repaint the trays and replace the hold downs. Looks like the same Kwikee trays also.

PPL has some DP's that look nice for under $30,000

I go by calculator, not computer. Miles driven divided by gallons used, that was with the gen on also (only one way up), and you have to figure we did use the AH over the weekend also. I did no calculations for the GEN or AH, just miles into gallons. I am neurotic when I drive this coach watching the boost gauge and tachometer. If I just set the cruise and let it go it will fall into the low mid 8's, I only run the cruise on flat roads with little to no wind, otherwise it throttles in such a manner that makes no sense.

Took the unit for a good run to Mt Pocono over the weekend. Have accumulated around 300 miles on it, pulled hills like a champ. I suspect the lack of fuel to the engine was why my MPG's were so good. It has appeared to drop slightly in MPG's. Trips to the beach, the best was 10.05MPG, (have to re run this in a few weeks to see) to the Poconos best was 9.49 to now 9.24. As we know fuel quality, air temps and wind all play a part on this, so its hard to tell. I am expecting a drop in economy, no complaints with that as long as the engine is getting the proper amount of fuel to be happy, I'm happy .

Herman, I now tilt the coach when filling up also. That was great advice, thank you! I could never get a "FULL" tank according to my gauge, now it goes to full, and I do get some strange looks also. DW complains...."this is making me nauseas, that feels weird". I have found the only thing that frustrates me is the time it takes for the coach to go back to its correct ride height, I have to release the parking brake, put it in drive, switch back to neutral and reapply the parking brake.....and sit and wait....and wait. I will not move it until its sitting properly.

Rich, can't imagine why it wouldn't work. You might need a different spec fuel pump based off of your HP. Are you sure you only have one filter?

Blake, once I removed the wheels under the residential fridge it squeaked in. I didn't put trim on top, the residential door stickes up higher than the fridge box so there was no need for trim on top or bottom (bottom is open for air circulation). The top I had to notch the wall just enough for the upper hinge to slide into the opening. I put trim down the sides since the replacement is not as wide as the Norcold. The roof vent and wall vent are sealed closed also.

Tom, forgot duct tape, I also carry a product called "rescue tape" pretty neat stuff.

Blake, your engine should be "High pressure Common rail", not CAPS (different design) Ask your mechanical guy to look. I do know you have the same lift pump and should have the same issue pulling fuel that distance

Rich, I believe some of the confusion stems from the term "CAPS". While the ISB, ISC, ISL, ISM and ISX all had that system design there were many differences depending on the engine model and year. Some were equipped with the Bosch VP44 and others the Cummins designed and produced injection pump. I did recently located this kit to remove the entire CAPS system and replace it with the old Bosch 7100 series mechanical injection pump found in the years prior to CAPS. If you want to throw $8000.00 at it in parts alone. https://areadieselservice.com/diesel-power-products/product/caps-pump-replacement-kit/

Rich, what engine and year engine do you have?

Dave, have you read this post?

Jim, when the TJ got dirty I would clean it, it was a rust free 2003, which around these parts is pretty rare. The previous owner garage kept it and wouldn't drive it in the snow, I tried once in a blizzard, I wouldn't try that again either, so it sat under cover from November to April. Between the 3.73 gears, 4.0L and the manual trans and factory A/C I was as happy as I could be. I'm going to miss that jeep I was going to do a Cummins 4BT diesel conversion to it when the 4.0L died..Thought that would be fun

I am familiar with that chassis, and I can see why they do not want jacks on it. The rear "frame rails" are boxed sheet metal, to much load in one spot could do a real number to the chassis. If the manufacture doesn't recommend it I wouldn't think of it.

Blake, I'd bet the chassis and power train are 2004's, especially with a April build. Mine is a July 02 build and my engine is a 2001.

looks good Blake! We have always had at least one Jeep in the house and one Mustang, well that ship sailed....for now anyway. DW always had a Wrangler since before I met her so there was no swaying her a different way. I'd bet in the spring she will ask for a small lift on it....I can see it

Carl, I wanted to run the old one off road, and we were planning on it, there are trails not to far from home up in the mountains. The new one is just to pretty, see below. Need to get another TJ for that. Jim, we had the M&G on the TJ and loved it, best toad brake system in my opinion. It only took me, 1/2 hour to remove all of it, including the wiring for the breakaway system. I have said it before, if M&G doesn't make a cylinder for it I'm not buying that toad.

Jim, thank you for the information. This will be the third Jeep Wrangler toad. We started out with a 2009 4 door, absolutely hated its lack of power, traded it and bought a 2003, loved it but as the kids got taller it got smaller, so my DW wanted another 4 door with the new engine that was released in 2012, so here we are. I ordered a new cylinder from M&G yesterday, new base plate and this wiring harness plug and play kit. http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com/products/dinghy-towing-harnesses/jeep7.html The 2009 and 2003 I tapped in with diodes and wired it myself, while the 2003 was simple the 2009 was not. I wanted a plug and play kit this time.

I am on the fence with this post. I agree with points everyone brought up and disagree with others. I do agree that monitoring EGT is a great idea, who wants to damage their engine. I will say from experience....only a few times I have ever seen a stock engine over EG temp, usually takes another reason/contributor to achieve this. One was a defective Variable Vane Turbocharger, left me scratching my head. Another time the truck was grossly overloaded pulling a hill (pulling 2x over the max rating), the final time was a loaded heavy manual transmission vehicle and the driver didn't down shift, just mashed the pedal to the floor, this one was on the border of to hot but not in the red. Lets talk stock RV, in my opinion the to hot EGT's are a contributing factor to cracked exhaust manifolds, that and a lack of air circulation in the DP engine compartment. My coach loves to lug itself down on a hill, I manually downshift it every time, trying to save the manifold from the inevitable crack. Do I think a stock, running properly maintained RV could over temp, NO, it will get to hot for my comfort, anything over 1100 degrees is too hot for me. Modified diesel, different animal, they will get very hot very quick! I have modified many Diesel trucks for on road and off road performance, towing and pulling. Stock truck with my heavy foot couldn't get one hot enough to be a concern with an automatic transmission. Bill, still haven't connected mine yet, I've been busy building a MAXXFORCE 7 for a customer that came apart. EGR cooler failed bent two rods and flipped one piston sideways in the cylinder, no block damage, which is odd considering it is a 2 piece engine block .

Just upgraded from a 2003 Wrangler to a 2014 Wrangler 4 door and I have a few questions; 1. Light wiring, is there a plug and play type of kit or do I have to trace the harnesses and splice in diodes? Cant find much on the web. 2. Battery disconnect? We had a 2009 before and never unhooked the battery. Does anyone do this....any issues not unhooking it? 3. This jeep is an automatic (2003 was a manual), I haven't read the manual yet but it is a manual transfer case with neutral, keep the shifter in Park and the transfer case in neutral...I'm guessing? 4. Any do's and don'ts, recommendations from experience to share?

Rich, thank you. It sounds much worse than it was.

Ok, here is my parts list for the project and the overview on how it was completed. You will notice some of the parts listed for the modification were completed utilizing aftermarket performance parts for a Cummins 5.9L in a Dodge pickup truck. This modification is fairly common on a Dodge Ram with a Cummins ISB but since it is a DP coach with a 8.9L ISL some additional modification's had to be completed to make it work properly. The reason it worked so well on the ISL 8.9L is the parts were spec'd for a Modified 5.9L with an output of 425 HP, which is close the same spec as my ISL. Fuel pump; Fass part number FA D08 95G link; http://store.fassride.com/detail/diesel-fuel-pumps/adjustable-diesel-fuel-pumps/adjustable-dodge-ram-cummins/adjustable-fuel-pump-95-gph-dodge-cummins-1998-1999-2000-2001-2002-2003-2004.php Fuel pump set to 17PSI from the factory, not touched. Davco filter; 243950RLFGD-10 (Davco model 243 Cummins filtration design with a 10 micron filter (same spec as the original primary filter, no micron changes were made), none heated, no water in fuel sensor) literature link;http://www.davco.com/forms/tech/F1215.pdf Note; The Davco was not needed, the factory filter could have been utilized, I just wanted to be able to see the condition of the filter and the fuel flowing through it. Fuel, one way check valve; https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220194b Note; Fuel one way check valve, not needed if I kept the factory filter housing, it incorporated a one way check valve from Cummins, since I was not using that filter housing I had to install one in its place. Fuel Cooler; Derale # 15950. Link; http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/15950/10002/-1 Relay; Standard fog light type relay. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bch-0332019155?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-bosch-automotive&gclid=CM-66prO_84CFYtbhgodXcQHSw Note; The fuel cooler would have not been needed had I not closed off the fuel tank bay with another coach modification (removal of the propane tank) Fuel pressure gauge; Autometer, modified by their custom department, changed to a black face and chrome bezel to match the factory gauges in the dash. link; http://www.autometer.com/2-rail-press-0-30k-psi-fse-cummins-5-9l-4474.html Fuel pressure gauge on pump; not needed but I wanted to see what the pump was set to and to use as a tool to see how clogged the secondary filter is (compare the two gauges to determine secondary filter condition). link; https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-26-502 Factory fuel pump extension wiring harness; Used to connect relay to existing fuel pump connection. Reason; the factory fuel pump only operates on startup for 30 seconds and shuts off, if nothing is connected the "Engine light" will illuminate (ECM thinks the lift pump circuit has failed). I extended the harness to my rear "coach" electrical compartment and used this harness to get the factory connection from the ECM at the factory fuel pump to that compartment. I used a standard Bosch relay on pins 86 and 85 (positive on pin 86, negative on pin 85) to energize the relay, for nothing more than to trick the ECM into thinking the original fuel pump is still connected and operating (the ECM only needs to see resistance). link; http://www.fassride.com/detail/accessories/drp-fuel-pump-relocation-kit/drp-relocation-dodge-ram-cummins/ddrp-fuel-pump-relocation-kit-dodge-cummins-2003-2004.php Fuel system layout; Existing Fuel Tank, one way check valve, Davco primary filter, Fass fuel pump (with Holly gauge mounted to it)(located up front of the coach next to the tank), secondary filter (OEM filter from Cummins located in engine bay, original location) "T" on outlet to injection pump with sending unit for dash mounted pressure gauge, factory hose to the CAPS pump, AKA fuel injection pump. Wiring layout; The new fuel pump is connected to the chassis electrical panel/compartment located in front of the driver steer tire. The Fass pump came with a wiring harness which incorporated a fuse and relay to power up their pump, which is now on a circuit that is ignition switched (key on, pump on). Pin 30 is connected to the Chassis battery lug in that compartment with the inline fuse connector it came with and pin 86 is on an open ignition circuit that was in the main power circuit board not being utilized by Monaco (also with an inline fuse I added). I had to modify their harness as it was designed to connect to the factory pump on a Dodge ram and that was connected to pin 86 on the relay, it was originally designed to power the relay from the factory ECM harness. The Cummins ISB in a Dodge operates differently, when the key is on so is the pump, my existing fuel pump circuit is not (only on for 30 seconds) so a slight alteration of their harness and I just needed a different power signal key/ignition switched to power the relay coil, which is also the reason I could not use my factory fuel pump power harness, plus my harness is located in the rear of the coach and the new pump is in the front next to the fuel tank. Plumbing; Since Monaco in these years plumbed the fuel system with 5/8" hydraulic hose and JIC fittings I continued with this and just made extension hoses to reach the new layout. All fuel lines are only 2 years old, so replacing them was unnecessary, I just needed them to reach places they were not capable of without some extension hoses. All fittings are hydraulic hose fittings that were crimped on. I capped the factory lines no longer needed as follows and left them in the engine bay, just tied out of the way; Line between the OEM primary filter and OEM lift pump, capped. Line from the OEM lift pump to the secondary filter, capped. At the tank I added a section of hose to reach the Primary filter from the fuel tank. Another section to reach from the pump outlet to the existing line that was connected to the fuel tank (runs from the front of the coach to the rear) Another section of hose from the inlet side of the old OEM primary filter to the secondary filter inlet. Returned fuel via the Original fuel pump; by design all excess fuel from the injection pump and cylinder head return to the factory lift pump, which in turn send the excess fuel to the tank (it is only a manifold for the points to connect to on this portion of the pump). This would normally be untouched, due to closing off the fuel tank bay, the tank does not get much air circulated around it to cool the fuel. I have installed a fuel cooler to correct this. One line from the cooler attaches to the old pump (return side of the pump) and the other connected the cooler and the existing return line from the rear of the coach to the fuel tank. Any questions please feel free to ask.

Blake, not sure, this is one area that didn't make sense to me, that was why I asked. The information on these that is out there is vague especially when it comes to GVWR. I was expecting you to tell me yours was 36,000 (same as Mine).

I cannot speak to the specific make of chip you are referring to. I did on our old coach add a Banks trans programmer (among other Banks items). I will say it defiantly improved my down shifts (stopped 70% of the unnecessary) and firmed up all of the others. My transmission temps dropped also, which is a big contributor to transmission failures. As always later I added a reinforced all aluminum transmission pan (BD Diesel product) which solves another common Ford problem....case warpage from torque and heat. Plus it gave me another few quarts. FYI the gas and diesel share a similar transmission, well same pan anyway in 2003.