jleamont

Am I the only one that finds this confusing; The superior performance of the Cummins ISL engine is an ideal match for the 2016 Diplomat. When you ride on the all-new Roadmaster Chassis, you get the full support and proven expertise of Freightliner Custom Chassis and its nationwide service network with over 400 locations, many of which include RV-dedicated Oasis locations. And with 24/7 Direct, 2016 owners receive direct access to factory technicians who can respond to all inquiries and technical issues.

Factory pick up cost more? . Wouldn't that save you money or maybe just a small amount for factory to put it in service, not that the dealers do it correctly anyway. But why the added cost?

Harry, good luck with your purchase. Please understand we don't want to see another fellow RV'r get taken for a ride, that is why this post has gotten so much traction. Usually we hear the horror stories after. On a good note if that chassis becomes a white knuckle experience there is a bunch of aftermarket products to dial it in. If you knew it up front you might get it thrown in. If you were good with the ride quality than you should be set. Now comes the task of locating a dealer that can support your needs after the sale and as close to home as possible. I can't help with that. keep us posted on your decision. Joe

After my friends Fleetwood wouldn't steer with a full water tank and my C was overloaded with no personal belongings and empty tanks, it really opened my eyes to what is out there and what they will do to put someone in a seat.

Agreed! Gas vs diesel or used vs new need not be on this post. I'm more concerned with the OP buying based off of what the salesperson told him assuming the OEM engineered and built it properly. As we all have seen in the past with others the majority of the time engineering and build quality go out the window and the consumer gets stuck. If one persons advice on here can help someone avoid that, great! I would hate his first trip out with his new toy be a white knuckle experience, my instinct tells me it would be with all of that wind sail.

Harry, I would like to say yes to your questions above, most of them anyway. I believe most RV companies would over build on a chassis, and most have and will every single day. I hold Newmar to a higher standard, but that's not to say they won't do it also. Since you will be making a purchase that is significant, take what you get in here and do your homework. Drive both models above and see for yourself, run them both down a interstate let a tractor trailer pass you feel them out, stop at a scale pull into it. Weight the unit, while it might not yield true numbers since it's not loaded it will give you an idea of the creditably of the builders weight numbers. Do yourself another favor, get numbers from the sales person and nothing else, scooping ice cream on Monday and selling RV's on Tuesday doesn't make you an expert. Most of the ones that have been around a while have no clue or idea what they are doing and are not experts on the product they represent. I learned this while RV shopping and we were amazed even the salesperson that has been around a few years could find his or her way to work every morning. If you doubt any of this take the time and read the other posts on FMCA from people like yourself, you will be amazed (horrified is probably a better word) what you will read. If it were me I would do as much homework as possible (as Rodger mentioned above) once you have that coach you are stuck with it. While everyone has their own opinions, the recommendations on here are as a result of watching so many people fall into a hole when making the decisions you are considering. Watching people jump into something that was engineered incorrectly or built incorrectly is a regular occurrence in the RV world and we read about it every single day. In my opinion, you are on the right track with the product line being considered. I did look at Newmar prior to our purchase in 2014.

Rodger brought up some good points. Something to add, I haven't driven a 39' gas coach, since Ford is now running the 6 speed and increased HP and Torque. I would be curious how it runs and handles with stock suspension, mostly with sway from passing vehicles, also what is the towing capacity? Watch out for that also, a coach that large increases the weight so it might decrease your towing possibilities, just keep that in mind while shopping depending on your car you may have to shorten the coach so your existing car can be pulled behind it.

Bill, a rack on top of a DP. Hmmmm, when that tire drops hopefully it bounces away from your coach and not off of the side wall. Wildebill, I just renewed my Coachnet and didn't notice it, I will have to go back and re read the options.

Harry, I've only read a few posts from you and you already sound like one of us ! Enjoy when you purchase make sure to join and post pictures in the gallery, I would love to see your new coach. Enjoy and safe travels!

Harryglos, welcome to get FMCA forum! If it were me I would go for the Newmar Gas over the Palazzo. The Newmar quality would be significantly better than the other. Depending on what you are using it for and if you were set on a diesel I would look in the used market. There are some really nice gently used higher quality used diesels on the market. We looked at a Palazzo in 2014 while we were shopping for our second coach (first was a gas class c). Since we had some experience already we were horrified over the quality of the Palazzo and lack of storage. I also wasn't a fan of almost no engine access on the coach which calculates into much higher maintenance costs. Also do not rule out Tiffen products for a gas coach. In my opinion Newmar or Tiffen would be my only two choices for a gas class a motorhome. We recently browsed a few new diesels, and I was shocked how poor the quality was with Forest River, Thor and Damon. Not sure where you are shopping but here is an example of nice used diesels. I'm in PA and I would make a trip to them if I were in the market and they had something I was interested in. good luck with your search, if you have any other questions please don't hesitate to ask. http://motorhomesoftexas.com

I tried to up load my tank bay photos. Doesn't work on the forum or gallery now. my fresh is on the bottom and black and grey just above on a shelf. All plumbing is right in your face when you open the door on the access side, the opposite side is my wet bay. Hopefully his Monaco is the same. Looks like a fairly simple project to tackle especially for a dealer....as long as the tech has some sort of clue what he or she is doing.

He sent me a message also. Poor guy! It's a tank, something from another coach has to fit or can be retrofitted to work.

Carl, 295/80R22.5 is the original tire size. I prefer not to carry a spare. But I also don't want to sit for 5 hours on the side of the road. Time is money and them chasing a tire down can really add up. That's probably why the dealer put 295/75R22.5's on it, but they are the wrong load range.

Roger, I watched the video, walked out to the coach with a tape measure and was pleasantly surprised to see my basement doors are 47" wide. So I can actually fit one under the coach. My size is common among over the road busses but not common amongst tire dealers for some odd reason. Size; 295/80R22.5 I guess next year I will order up the proper size. I have two matching aluminum wheels that I have not installed on the inner duals yet (inner duals are steel now). I think what I'm going to do is replace the incorrect size drive tires next year swing those aluminum inner wheels on at that time and either purchase a 5th tire new for a spare at that time or see if the tire dealer has a decent used one to toss in the basement. I will mount them myself, I have all the required tools to do so, my blue cobra hasn't seen much action in a few years since I sold the mobile truck repair business. P.S. Love your website, I have sent several people from social media to it for advice. That is a great tool! Thank you Joe

Shalom, were you flushing the tank when this happened? What was the level in the tank when this occurred Was the coach level? I just read up on this and I have a better understanding of how it can happen, but still curious if I should pour water down my roof vent to verify its open?

Help me understand, how does the vent become clogged, and is this something I should be checking and if so how often and how would you do that? http://usedrvparts.visonerv.com/cgi-bin/c/rvsalvagemotorhomes-partingout.pl These guys seem to have a bunch of Monaco products for parts.

abyrd, I already had it but never used it. Once I completed our install I read the manual and set it up just as a precaution. Call your inverter co and ask them if a kit is available. I have the Xantrex RC7GS monitor/control inside.

Kay, I have been there...heck every road trip I'm there, who am I kidding! Usually I just laugh sometimes it gets under my skin. I constantly run the right lane at 63 mph (best MPG) unless the speed limit is lower of course. Usually it is someone pulling a camper trailer (and I really hate to stereotype but the DW and I on every trip have this conversation..... this is what we look like in the front seats.....), they are usually all over the road in the first place. It seems like they see a large DP and think they have something to prove as they pass us at 75 or more they always look like they are in a race to get somewhere, then I blow them into the median as they pass us. I drive looking in front of me and around me at all times, when I see them coming I snicker and tell the DW....Wait ...for...it... look at this genius ! I could write a book on what our dash cam records. My coach tends to push everyone that tries to pass us also (only a tractor trailer with a van trailer do I have to lean on the wheel ever so slightly, but so does he), so I don't have to compensate for most, but rather watch them start to loose it and get out of the way. While on our last trip in Maine, one tried the same with an 18 wheeler, that had traffic all messed up for hours on I-95 in New Hampshire. Herman, I always blink to truckers passing, and I usually get a marker light blink back to say thank you. My smart wheel has the flash buttons on it and I use them often. Sometimes they blink for me which is nice. I will NOT follow a camper trailer unless I dissect it when it passes and it looks like its set up properly, the tow vehicle is of the proper spec for the size of the trailer, I will just slow down so they get away from me. Same trip as above a Dodge Caravan passed us pulling a 27' - 31' TT. Van bumper on the ground, chains and hitch bouncing off the asphalt, at the top of the next hill on I-84 there it was broke down....who didn't see that coming . Cant fix ....well you know

OK. let me help get some use out of that DP.....I'm headed to Gettysburg in Sept for a Chili Cook-off contest at a CG, you and your DW should come up for the weekend. I will email you the details.

Anyone watch The Big Bang theory? Episode where they were testing the space toilet with meatloaf? Sorry...... This topic reminds me of this episode....

Is this your first trip out this year?

Marty, the convertor is usually located behind the fuse box, but that will depend where the fuse box is located. My last coach had the fuse box on the dinette booth in the walkway under the forward facing bench, under the cushions behind all of that was the Convertor. it should have battery cables coming off one side and a power cord or romex wiring on the other. It will resemble this;

I have seen in campgrounds what looked like previous FEMA trailers. No decals and only one or two windows. They have an odd look to them, not like a normal TT.

I started out with a dolly due to the vehicle I had at the time, worked ok. I didn't like trying to find a spot for it and the safety chains were a pain to connect laying on the ground, it got old real fast. Switched over to 4 wheels down when we bought the jeep. If I were to bring a golf cart, motorcycle etc. I would switch back to a set up like Kay. I had the opportunity to demo one of these tandem axle dollies and it was pretty neat. When I had my boat I had a golf cart set up built on the boat trailer tongue. So I get it... brining all of the toys with you . http://www.tandem-tow.com/Models.htm

marty57, I had to reread your original post and start over. It sounds to me your convertor has failed as Kay mentioned above, your voltages are not right to charge that battery and if it was plugged in should have maintained the battery charge level. Check the power coming into it to make sure it has 120vac coming in, if not comfortable with a volt meter working on 120 vac plug a desk lamp into the socket, or a drill and see how well it operates. Obviously this test will only work if its plugged in and not hard wired. I have replaced them both ways in the past. Reconnect the battery turn on 12v loads inside the unit, you should hear the convertor ramp up (the older style tend to be noisy while working hard) with the fan running, then recheck your voltages at your house battery and report back. The reason everything works when the coach engine is running is the isolator is switching over from the convertor circuit to your alternator on the engine, sounds like that isolator is working as it should, you can check that also by running the coach engine and checking power at the house battery, you may have to leave the volt meter on there and keep an eye on it as some systems will switch back and forth between the chassis and house battery. Based off of the year of your unit my guess is you only have a basic convertor (aka charger), not a convertor/inverter. Its not uncommon for those to fail over time and they are not terribly expensive, the last one I bought was under $200.00. You could also have the same symptom if you run your generator, since if its wired like I suspect it just powers up the 120v line to the Convertor also, so your house battery will not charge on generator also.