jleamont

UGGG, thats not good. Like Jim said "good thing it broke at home".

Same here, when I dump the air bags, I do loose maybe 15psi on the dash gauge from 120, (still seems odd to me), the coach levels and I usually end up with 95-110 psi in my tanks. Over the course of a 4-5 days it will bleed down to 50 psi. if and when it drops below 40psi you cannot press the button down...well you can but it pops back at you. If you press the button down with more than 40psi you had better hope your chocked or you are going for a ride with a ghost driver.

Herman, you are lucky it fit out the door, I had to remove the old one and bring the new one through the window. Which sounds difficult but was actually very simple to remove.

Herman, if you were up this way I'd say stop over to my house, I would be glad to help with the install. I found that when you call friends and offer beer and home made BBQ they line up to help. In the end I am suprised it's straight in the hole.

Carl, never happed to me but I see it quite a bit, not sure if it was routed wrong and got snagged when turning or if its from the weight of the cord bouncing down the road and the connector lids are not properly positioned to lock the connector into the sockets? I just followed a Class C Sunday from Hershey with no toad lights when I backed off I could see the cord under the front of his Jeep Liberty bouncing off the highway.

matthew, that was another selling point to the M&G, it doesn't press the pedal, just the master cylinder, I currently have to pull a fuse on my jeep, which is not a big deal, but I wont have to anymore. I also like the no drilling or mounting a cylinder under the dash, with the Jeeps low floor pan and tall rocker panels that could get painful trying to get into that small of an area for the install.

I think i found my point of entry, not sure how to get to it to correct. My heater hoses come through a tube that passes through the wall into the fuel tank bay from the rear of the coach to the front, the tube is open around the hoses. So now, do i put steel wool in there around the hoses and spray foam it, or just spray foam it? It's almost center of the coach, trying to gain access will be a real treat. I might have to install a tube on the spray foam can and use a stick to guide it to the hole...not sure what to do, any ideas? I would rater not pull the basement celings down to gain access, but that seems like the best route. I was also concerned that the steel wool will damage the hoses passing through.

matthew, I am also in the market and I tow a lifted Jeep Wrangler also. My BlueOx brake box bit the dust, parts are not available, its going in the trash. I have looked and touched all except the M&G system this past weekend at the Hershey RV show, after reading the installation manual I am sold on the M&G design, plus their pricing makes it much more desireable. If M&G were at the show I would have bought their system then.

Herman, if you have any questions please send me a PM, I just did this in ours 1 year ago this week, still remember it like it was yesterday, very simple to do, the payoff was huge and the cost was not. I installed a basic fridge, freezer on top, fridge on the bottom, no ice maker (it was an option). GE model from Home Depot for $625.00 17.5 cu ft. I also wasn't sure if my inverter would power it, I bought it, brought it home and ran an extension cord from the coach refrigerator outlet into the garage, carefully unpacked it (just in case I had to return it) plugged it in for the afternoon, worked fine. Good luck.

I run the Demco Commander, no concerns so far and its 3 yrs old, still works like the day I bought it, the folks at Demco are very nice, family owned company. One thing that sold me (besides the price) was it has the safety cables and light cord attached to it so there is no chance of anything dragging on the ground, so if the light cord becomes unplugged it will just hang.

Jack, good idea with the clothes pin. I will try that.

scottcampbell, are you connected to electric or are you running on gas?

ObedB, I can relate, mine are not supposed to operate with the key on and the front one will not move, but the rear one will come on, and shut down, cycle the slide switch and it will move another foot and stop, you can do this all the way in or out, or just go and turn the ignition switch to the off position and it works just fine. When the engine is running they do not work at all, oddly the engine will start when they are extended and its not supposed to. I have a process that works for me when setting up: 1, pull into the site stop where you want to park, set parking brake. 2, feather the brake pedal so the compressor comes on, let it build air, once the air dryer purges I shut the engine off. 3, run both slides out 4, dump the air suspension 5, press the auto level button. 6, while its leveling I hook up Water/sewer etc... I just noticed my electric back up compressor stopped working, so I will have to see whats going on there. One thing that seems odd, when I dump the suspension I use air from my tanks, the gauge will drop.

Last year I had found some small piecs of acorns in the basement and one chair had a hole chewed into it, never saw any droppings anywhere and it was only in one basement compartment. Last year I had nothing placed anywhere for a precaution, our old coach I never had a problem. I have no idea what it was the created this mess but I purchased the peppermint pre made packages and placed them throughout the coach. I plan on giving this a try this year, I ordered the oil from Amazon yesterday. The frustrating part is......how did what ever it was get in there, I cannot locate any holes or gaps.

HI Carl! I keep two large hardened rubber wheel chocks and my old Rand McNally GPS (from another post) . Between the three our coach isn't going anywhere. I had a concern of our dog accidentally stepping on the parking brake release, we barricade that area in with stuff just in case to keep him away from the controls, just a thought.

lewisedge, What do you put the oil onto and how frequently to you add more? I have Cab Fresh in the coach now in the basements. It is almost worn out and I will looking into my other options, this seems like a good one to explore.

We do not use ours either. My Wife bought a rechargable Dyson on a Black Friday sale a few years ago, works great.

Cannot speak to the Thor line up and their quality, I would imagine it would be equal to Fleetwood which you have experience with. I am very familiar with the Ford F550 and the 6.7L Diesel. You should expect to see around 5-8 mpg and they are not a bad engine, once they hit 100,000 miles they become a bit of a problem chasing sensor failures. The hardest part might be finding a Ford dealer close to home that can service the chassis. Ford Diesels often require dealer intervention for software updates...several per year for odd running problems and product improvements that pop up from time to time, a dealer will usually keep you up to date if you are using them for service. I have a customer that runs this chassis, several in fact, and the MPG he gets is disappointing, hauling storage sheds he gets the same MPG as the V10 and his fleet is empty 50% of the time and his maintenance costs are triple the V10, however this Diesel engine does produce more HP and Torque over the V10, I guess its a trade off. Honestly we looked at this same unit last year and I could not sway my wife into another C after the structural failures we had with our last one (not a Thor).

Always use wheel chocks! I have seen to many spring brake chambers with broken springs over the years that will not hold. Not sure what happened here but what a shame.

We have the same toilet. I wanted to replace it last year when our valve failed. I found the mounting flange was larger than a standard RV toliet. I opted to fix it and see where it goes. If you figure out the puzzle please let me know.

Nice job Dave!

Duce05, I recall these days and with our old class c we got rid of last year. Depending on the year of the chassis there are some things you can do to help like evolvingpowercat recommended. I installed the Banks power pack onto our old coach, low rolling resistant tires and removed the belt driven fan and replaced it with a dual electric fan kit, it ran much better and if I gained any MPG it was less than .5mpg. We had the 6.8Lv10, 2 valve with the 4 speed automatic and 4.63 gears on 16" wheels, 31' body on the E-450 chassis. I have been told the 3 valve version was better on fuel plus it has the 5 speed automatic. I found wind resistance and fuel quality were the two biggest factors with MPG. The Triton line up from Ford loves high RPM's to build the power it takes to push that large of a vehicle through the wind and that will hurt your MPG. Just an FYI I have a friend with a Ford Excursion SUV with a V10 he only gets 9 mpg no trailer, so either way you might be able to squeak a little more out of it but probably not too much. I would love to see statistics for Air Tabs, I hear mixed reports on them.

Yes it is! We ran that section of I-40 in December 2013, it cracked the exterior wall on my Class C.

I changed my marker lights on top to LED replaced the headlamps to LED with halo's and front turn signals to LED. My coaches front lamps are from a 1997-2006 Ford Econoline, rear are from a 1992-1996 Ford Econoline (no LED available for these yet, mine has the separate amber turn signal). All of the top marker lights I changed to LED with a kit from Bargman that just plugs into the existing socket. The original headlamps were terrible at night, I had to drive with the high beams on just to see and no one had ever blinked at me to turn them down.

Thanks guy’s advice on the gadgets. I think we all have too much invested to take the risk. I almost lost our last coach due to a malfunctioning tower. Fortunately it only burned the wiring out of the ATS and buss bar in the breaker panel and we were in the unit when the problem surfaced. I was able to respond and get the situation under control. I had another one in Oklahoma catch fire and shock me when I threw the breakers up before I had a chance to test it with my meter that was a great night at 2am when we were looking for a place to bed down with hookups. This DP has a lot more electronics and would be very expensive to repair. It just amazes me there are so many problems with towers, it seems like they are a forgotten part of campground maintenance.