jleamont

Link; http://www.remcoindustries.com/product-pages/aquajet/

Roland, this is the pump on ours.

Just flushed out the RV antifreeze. Proud to say everything works!

New coach, getting the bugs (aka defects) out should be covered under the base warranty. I cannot stress this enough, before you leave the dealership make certain everything works, this includes flowing water through every faucet, water heater etc then look for leaks! I know it seems like a waste of water but better that than get 300 miles away and observe the leak that wasn’t properly connected at the factory. If you are mechanically inclined I would bank the money. If you are not mechanically inclined you might want to weigh out a warranty. At a minimum I would get a great warranty on the engine and emissions system, that’s where the bleeding will occur, minor stuff on the coach compared to that. To put it into perspective, if I bought a new coach, I would put a powertrain warranty on it that covered every little sensor and diagnostics! The rest of the coach I wouldn’t be that concerned with other than the electronics. I would also make darn sure you can access the engine with ample space for repairs and service. I have worked at places that refused to repair a stranded RV’r due to poor engine access by the manufacturer.

Don't give him any Ideas! I saw your photo on Facebook, looked like fun

From my owners manual;

Jim, here is a link for a redesign for the hydraulic fan set up on the later Monaco coaches. I believe the redesign that caused all of the heartburn came along in 2003 http://sourcerv.com/conversion

Steve, the only way to determine why the "Warning" light is illuminated on your dash is to have the Engine ECM scanned for fault codes. A device like this will be able to pull fault codes. Without the fault code there is no way of telling what is wrong that the engine is seeing. https://www.scangauge.com/products/scangauge-d/

They do make them, Here is an example. I have had to put it between the duels and lock it on by pulling it with two fingers onto the valve stem. It can be a real pain but when you think of the consequences its worth the extra steps. https://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=MIL553&source=froogle&kw=MIL553&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiKe756-24QIVzMDICh1v7glZEAkYAyABEgJa0fD_BwE

To help with an explanation above; If you stumble upon a tire that is under inflated below 20%, do not top it off, seek professional help. There is a good chance it has internal damage and could fail upon adding air. This is assuming you do not have Tire Pressure Monitoring, if you do it should be programmed to alarm you long before the pressure drops this far. If your tire isn't below 20% and you need to add air; stand clear of the trajectory path, purchase a inflation tool with a long whip hose that will allow you be be clear (2nd photo), add air and pay attention, if you hear a cracking/popping sound GET AWAY. The first photo is the typical tire inflation tool, I am not a fan of this type as you must kneel there with your body in the trajectory path. I wont fill a car tire with this type. The second photo is the type I prefer, it snaps onto the valve stem and allows you to be a safe distance from the tire. The one I use has a 12' hose and only cost a little more. And as always, if you are unsure, see professional help. PHOTO 1 PHOTO 2

I have heard several places, behind the radio on our coach, I have heard of some in the console next to the passenger seat. Pop the cup holder out and shine a flashlight down there

On our ISL it’s on the passenger side of the engine

Wiring; I have this kit on ours; http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.com/products/dinghy-towing-harnesses/56200.html Mopar makes a kit for the wrangler also and supposedly its easier to install. I do not have the part number for it.

shmily18, We tow a 2014 JKU with a M&G brake system (with breakaway) and a Demco tow bar. Roadmaster and Demco are the only two bars that I am aware of that have the available ends to pull directly off of the bumper. I pull directly from the D-Ring loops. I bolted a chain on each side of the JKU frame for my safety chains. When not in use I drop them into the skid plates. The photo of the front of the jeep is different now than when I took this photo. I moved the air line connection up to the grill area and re positioned the breakaway switch so its recessed. I altered it when I added the optional skid plate to the front which is also not in the photo. Brake system; https://m-gengineering.com/products/

She had a reality check afterwards, I think she got caught up in the bling. Nice units, just doesn't suite or lifestyle.

We looked at a class B at the RV show a few weeks back, my wife liked them and passed a comment about one for the future. She did mention that it would need to be able to pull a Jeep or no deal. We did the no toad long ago when we destination camped with small kids (no intention on leaving the campground). When we did need to leave for some unforeseen reason it became a real hassle to pack up and roll out, come back and set up. The outside stuff was easy, its the interior stuff to secure for the road that became the real hassle.

I would be shocked if that large of a coach had such a small chassis (i.e. low GVW) as the RR4 under it. Is that an 8 air bag chassis?

I see the benefit, depending on how you use your RV. I am also like DD, new gadget..i'm all for it if it makes sense for our lifestyle. When I read this post in the beginning I thought, now there is some technology for your RV that would be a huge benefit for someone that loves to Boondock for long periods off the grid.

Seized from rust or stripped. The clip portion would break off and they would spin. I always put a dot of Anti Seize on the threads when putting a car or truck back together to help the next guy.

Yup, that’s how ours worked when it was connected, it also shut the roof top AC units off. Stumped me then I realized it actually turned the control off for the AC which in turn stopped both units.

Lost many finger skin on those, especially when the seize and spin and you think you can hold it

Yes. Your manual should tell you the maximum PSI your plumbing can handle. The pump Bill recommended would be a nice upgrade assuming your coaches plumbing can handle it. You could also call your manufacturers tech support and ask. I thought I had the specs for our pump. Can’t find them. Our water pressure on pump is actually better than most city.

Roland, nothing that I am aware of other than upgrading your pump. Perhaps someone knows someone I do not.

Batsome, if you are replacing a factory equipped one in your RV it’s probably 12v. It might also be a dual purpose model that covers propane and carbon Monoxide detection. I upgraded both of ours last year, not cheap but it’s money well spent.

I must be an old soul reincarnated! I have a good friend and his wife that plays in a band, they specialize in swing and big band music. We go as often as schedules permit to hear them play.