frank.bergamo

What you are describing is perfectly normal. No need to buy a new one unless you just want to have a spare. Hope this helps.

Not a problem running fridge while driving. But, very good idea to be level when parked for a longer period of time. Hope this helps.

Was there PAG oil put back in the system? Look at your receipts. It should be on them if it was done right the first time. No oil or not enough oil will cause the compressor to lock up also. Hope this helps.

Check your ignition solenoid. It powers up all 12 volt chassis systems. It is a common failure point. On your coach it may be in the front run bay. It is a continuous duty 85 amp solenoid. Looks like this, https://www.amazon.com/Cole-Hersee-24059-BP-Insulated-Continuous/dp/B0064MX7US/ref=asc_df_B0064MX7US/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312634019511&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2522001020076459972&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029187&hvtargid=pla-434876528814&psc=1 If it has a diode on the two small terminals, be sure to reinstall the same way it came off. Hope this helps.

Two batteries at 11.3, two at 12.8? Something amiss there. I would check all connections, making sure they are tight and hooked up correctly. Those two batteries are essentially dead. Hope this helps.

Try turning the breaker on the generator off and on a few times. Sometimes it is hard to see the breaker tripped. It also will start and run with breaker tripped. Hope this helps.

Do you have limit switches? Most do, I would start there. Hope this helps.

Is your inverter on, if it is check breakers on inverter and inverter circuit breaker box. Hope this helps.

Check the GFI receptacle in the bathroom to make sure it is not tripped. Check any other GFI’s also. Hope this helps. Just reread original post, GFI’s control AC, not 12 volt DC. Sorry about that.

Mike, this is what I use, https://yourtireshopsupply.com/category/796_945/motorhomesbusesclass-alumalum-wheels Great product. Hope this helps.

I would check fluid level in resovoir for leveling jacks. May be a little low, causing alarm to activate. If that is OK, then check the switch on each Jack to make sure it is operating properly. They get dirty and need to be cleaned with electrical cleaner occasionally. Hope this helps.

docj, on my 2002 Marquis, the salesman solenoid was located in the battery compartment above the batteries, between two ceramic looking fuses, one for chassis, the other for coach. Hope this helps.

Bill, I am referring to the 12VDC solenoid that the salesman switch controls. By connecting both terminals to one lug on the solenoid you close the circuit, thereby bypassing the solenoid and rendering the salesman switch useless. No more bumping it off/on inadvertently. Using the disconnect switches at the batteries if you have them, will cut power when desired or in storage. If no switches, then as Herman said, disconnect from batteries. Hope this helps.

Another option, bypass the switch and hook the two terminals together on the salesman solenoid. Never a problem again. Hope this helps.

Jim, I would be leery of disconnecting your surge protector. You may have a problem with your shore power and your EMS is dong its job of disconnecting power to prevent damage to coach electronics. Verify that incoming power is correct before plugging into power source, to eliminate problem at power source. Hope this helps.

rpstewart, first thing is to determine 6 or12 volt batteries. A volt meter will help determine what you have. This is important because they hook up different depending on what battery you have. You could also take them to a battery distributor and have them determine what they are. A picture of the batteries before disconnecting helps in reinstalling the cables correctly. Hope this helps.

Ignition solenoid would be my first place to look. Hope this helps.

Back to my original post, weighing each individual corner will give me the exact weight I need, to determine the proper tire inflation. With the coach fully loaded with water, fuel, supplies, and whatever else you may choose to haul down the road, you can get an accurate weight on each corner to come up with the proper PSI. Hope this helps.

Without weighing each individual corner, a 5 psi bump is a good idea. It allows for one side of the axle to be a little bit heavier and still not be under inflated. Hope this helps.

My experience with a high HP coach concerning fuel mileage is the more horses, the more thirsty. My current coach, Cat C-15 600 HP will get anywhere from 4~6 MPG. Speed is the determining factor. My previous coach had a C-12 505 HP, 7~9 MPG. IMHO the C-12 will give you the best bang for the buck. Problem is, Cat quit making over the road motors around 2007, so if you are interested in a coach with a Cat motor it will have to be an older coach. One positive, the older motor homes are pre emission. Not much difference in pulling mountain passes, they all slow down no matter how big a motor. As far as Cummins, I have no personal experience, maybe someone else will chime in. Hope this helps.

I believe it is located under the entry way steps. The same fluid reservoir is also used for the front slide if your coach has one. Any Dextron ATF fluid will work for topping off reservoir. Hope this helps.

Do yourself and everyone else on the road a favor, SLOW DOWN!!

Bought 8 XZE’s that were 3 weeks old for a 2002 Beaver Marquis. Driveability, ride and wear were excellent in 30,000 miles. Sold coach after 3 years so no experience after that. I would buy Michelin again. Whatever you buy, make sure the date code is as new as you can get. For me, I would not buy any tire that is more than 6-9 months old. Hope this helps.

If the fill valve is open, it will keep running in a loop and not shut off. Hope this helps.

As Rich stated above, there should be a tag on it to identify the manufacturer and part number. Here is a catalogue for Whitehouse Products. https://www.whitehouseproductsltd.com/Request-a-Catalogue Hope this helps.