blakeloke

Ken, Welcome to the Forum. Tomball is just a short distance from our house. So, if you need help with anything please feel free to ask. Merry Christmas! Blake

I think I may have mentioned this in a previous post. On two occasions our fresh water tank has filled up and overflowed when we are hooked up to "city" water (campground supplied). After the first event I replaced the valve that isolates tank fill to house use. It happened again a year or so later. In both cases I noted that the campground supplied pressure was fairly high. I suspected that the supplied pressure was high enough to push water through the valve seals and slowly fill my holding tank. So, I obtained a better regulator that I could adjust. Now I'm able to keep water pressure to about 45psi max. Haven't had a problem since. Blake

I'm assuming you are plugged into full shore power. In your case 30a or 50a. If you suspect a problem on "mix 2" try running on electric only. This might get you by until tech support can help. Blake

Give Pete a call at Action RV in Conroe. They do great work. Blake

Bill and Joe, I understand fully your disappointment and respect your decisions to not renew and step away from FMCA. My take on this is different though. To me, being part of an organization goes both ways. What can the organization provide me and what, if any, can I provide the organization. For the Forums, there are only a small amount members that really contribute with sage advice and ideas. You two are at the top of the list. Bill with your knowledge of electronics and the open road. And Joe with your knowledge of mechanical systems and ability to reach-out to other members (like Keon). Please reconsider leaving FMCA.....I for one believe you are needed. Blake

cscarlson, Welcome to the Forum! Good questions and analysis on your part. The problem I see is that your rear tires will not always be on a level plane when you are going in and out of driveways such as fuel stations, markets and large parking lots. You'll also have to consider the "dip" and overhang from your rear axle to the low point on the hitch. As your rear axle gets to the low point of the dip your drop hitch is going to be closest to the pavement. I'm mindful of going in and out of driveways and entrances. If I see a lot of scrape marks and gouges on the concrete or pavement I hit the air ride height adjustment to raise the coach. Not sure if you are able to do that on yours. I also enter or exit diagonally when I encounter the same. Of course a tow vehicle with a higher hitch point would be best but you'll have to decide on that. Blake

Now I see what you are talking about Joe. Major surgery. If your TV is still working you are golden! Have you thought about looking for a flat screen that will fit inside the current cabinet (vertically)? Then putting in a false back to mount the swing arm. When parked you could pull it out and when on the road you could push it back in and lock it. Just a thought. Blake

Herman, Thinking about this a bit more. I have a set of 12vdc fuses in the bedroom in the same cabinet as the 120v breakers. Has Joe looked there? Let me know if you go to Beaumont after the holidays. I might ride along. Blake

I would test power to the rocker switch that retracts the cord first. Just to see if you have 12vdc to the hot side. if so, rocker switch could be bad, If no power then you're on a hunt for where power is interrupted. Blake

Wow, eye opener for me. We, without fail, always test our brake, turn signal and running lights prior to setting out for a day of travel. But, I've never had Deb push the brakes down concurrent to a turn signal. Gonna have to check next time we hook up one of the toads. We have Blue Ox systems too. Blake

Folks, In a recent related post, Jleamont (Joe) mentioned that he had not upgraded his bedroom TV because he couldn't find a newer one that would fit in the space that his "tube" version was in. Deb and I ran into the same problem and once the tube style TV stopped working we were on a quest to figure out a solution. So, here's what we came up with. I'm sure I could have done this work myself but install credit goes to Action RV in Conroe, TX. We had the coach in for other items and it was easier to have them do this work concurrently. So, I thought this post may be helpful to others that want to get rid of their boat anchors. The TV is a Samsung 32. Actual diagonal measurement is a hair under 31". We bought the TV at Walmart for a ridiculously low price. The TV Mount is a Mor/Ryde 24-0111 swivel mount. It has a latch that secures the TV when driving down the highway. There's a pulldown latch on the mount. A small chain and key ring allows for simple access. A false back, made with plywood was installed in the old TV hole. Then covered with the same fabric that is used in our bedroom shelves. The area behind the TV gives us a hide-a-way storage too. Definitely 1911 wide (hidden meaning - most know). Here's some pictures: Blake

Herman, Here's where our power cord reel fuse is. Front driver's side electrical panel. Position 37. 15amp. Blake

waynemcisaac, Not sure if the temperature issue is a new problem or an ongoing issue. I had an absorption refrigerator/freezer on one of my pull behind campers many years ago. Could never get the unit to cool right until I added an internal circulating fan. Similar to this: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-Fridge-Airator/14504360?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227010204611&wl0=&wl1=s&wl2=c&wl3=40839147392&wl4=pla-78652165592&wl5=9027724&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=14504360&wl13=&veh=sem That seemed to help some. We recently replaced our absorption unit in our coach to a residential unit. Same thing was happening in that beer wasn't cold enough and ice cream wasn't really frozen. I think our unit was just tired and old (~10 years or so). Plus there are inherent safety issues with the unit we had. Search on this Forum using "Norcold" for details. Blake

I signed up Smithy. Beta testing is always a good thing! Blake

Welcome to the Forum. Check the FMCA towing guide. Here's the 2011 edition. https://www.fmca.com/images/stories/pdf/towing_11.pdf Blake

53rambler, The only other viable solution I see is to run a charge line from your coach to the towed car. Then don't disconnect the towed's battery. Blake

Interesting post and it looks like many of us are of similar mindset. We too carry firearms when we travel. We're always mindful of local laws and are appropriately legal. Past dozen years or so, we've traveled I-10 from between TX and CA at least once a year and sometimes 2 or more times per year. Only once LEO has entered our coach and that was with a dog. That was at, what we call "checkpoint Charlie" in West TX eastbound. No problem with our pets vs their working dog and no alerts on our firearms and/or ammunition. Blake

Carl, Joe is the OP. He drives a 2002 HR Imperial. Blake

Joe, I have system heat and the same heater you have in the wet bay. Being down here in the Houston area I've never had to winterize or use the system heat. I would actually have to refer to our owner's manual to understand what the Prevent a Freeze switches and System Heat switch does. Blake

Joe, do you keep your system heat on throughout the winter? Blake

Unfortunately Richard is right. Microwaves, TVs and a lot of other electronics are disposable and often more expensive to repair. Being under warranty, I'd guess the repair man would say "yup it's bad" and the MH maker will ship out a new unit. If you're handy you might check the Flux Capacitor. Blake

Tireman, Thank you for the reminder! I saw a news feature on TV whilst we were out traveling and completely forgot. We have two affected by recall and should have replacements in about 14 days. Blake

It wouldn't make a lot of difference if you find a refrigerator that fits and will run on MSW. If you have to use an PSW inverter I would look into upgrading to the larger inverter if your house wiring is sized correctly. With a larger inverter you should be able to use smaller appliances and TV in conjunction with your new refrigerator. For example: we went from a Norcold 1200 to a Fisher & Paykel residential. Fisher & Paykel was the only French door residential refrigerator that would fit into our space. The manufacturer had no experience with running the unit on MSW so we opted to change the inverter and control system to PSW. At the same time we went from 2,000w to 3,000w. Blake

The next thing I would check is to see if you are getting power (voltage) to the solenoid. Best way would be to have someone turn the key while another holds a voltmeter to the terminals at the solenoid. You could try to jump the solenoid as Bill mentions above. I'd only do so if you feel comfortable under the coach with moving parts such as fan, belts and pulleys. You might also want to try the remote start in the engine compartment if you have one. Turn the key on at the dash then go to the rear and try to engage the starter that way. If that works then it indicates you might have a problem in the ignition circuit. What exactly is the voltage of your starter batteries? Blake