desertdeals69

Be sure to check the wire size of the ground.

Book guides are just that, a guide. Check your local area and see what pricing is for comparable motorhomes. See what the selling price is, not the asking price. There usually a difference.

How level is the coach when its leaking. If the rear is only slightly higher it may be leaking from somewhere towards the back. Try lifting the front slightly and see if it still leaks. On mine before I replaced the Dicor roof, it would leak at the rear if it wasn't slightly higher than the front. My leak was on the rear wall.

Its gelcoat cracking. Common in poor lamination, like too thin and to much flexing.

Welcome. Motorhoming is a great way to see the country.

What is the reason for your dislike for a battery?

Not a good idea. I think the early rv refrigerators did not require electricity just like the home evaporation refrigerators of the 30's.

Thats exactly what mine looked Thats exactly what mine looked like.

You might try a stronger spring in the surge controller. It will then take more pressure to activate the brakes. It is proportional.

I was told by a tire mfg that a zipper split on the sidewall is usually caused by under inflation. I had that happen to me before I installed Tire Minder system. Now I will know when I am loosing air.

Its probably past its useful life. Needs replacing.

Have you weighed the axles? The correct inflation is set by weight according to the tire mfg inflation table. The sticker pressure in the coach is not always correct.

What kind of batteries do you have? You need to have deep cycle batteries such a two 6 volt golf cart batteries.

How much air do you have in your tires, are they inflated to the tire mfg specs?

I would guess that the max would be 15-16 volts. I think you need to use a deep cycle battery and let the solar panel charge the battery.

I prefer not the have flex hoses and I have seen too many failures in our RV business the last 30 or so years.

Do you get high idle when you hit the resume on the cruise control? Might check the throttle pedal harness plug, may have come loose.

If the area is subject to corrosion I would use DC 4 compound.

Check with Roadmaster, they have several brake systems.

When you reduce the setting of the valve, thus reducing the flow , the pressure before the valve is the same 11 inches of pressure, the flame is smaller. It is true you can change the flame size by changing the pressure but that is not how its done. The pressure will remain the same because thats the function of the regulator, which within the design limits (flow wise) of the regulator and the flame size is controlled by the metering orifice.

A manometer will measure the pressure not the flow rate.

I believe it is the liability, which I think is on your personal liability coverage on your homeowner's insurance. It may have to be specified in the policy.

In a word it sucks. My wife has sprint and I have at.&t and I have much better coverage across the US in rural areas. I was thinking of going with verizon when my contract runs out in oct. I have had a few issues with at&t

The overflow tube on the top of the tank should be attached to the filler neck so no fuel is spilled. You may have a split vent hose or loose clamp.

It depends on your skill level. If you are mechanically inclined and read the manuals it would be very possible that you could do the change.