desertdeals69

It should be in the air brake line from the brake pedal. I assume you have air pressure.

I had that happen to me and I stopped and pushed the disconnect switch for the chassis battery and then pushed it again to turn it back on and everything was ok.

on the front

I bought the string for $4 and restrung all my blinds.

You could unplug the buzzer. Just be aware that the other things that use the sounder will be affected.

My suggestion is to become familiar with all the operating systems so you can discuss the situation with the service personal before the repair and have an idea of whats involved and if it sounds like they are feeding you a line go some where else.

The hardest part is finding materials. You should be able to find foamboard at a building supply store and fabric at a fabric store. Use spray adhesive that is compatible with fabric and foam.

Its true that in some situations propane must be turned off, however if your vehicle is propane fueled that would not be practical to turn off the propane.

Be sure to check the wire size of the ground.

Book guides are just that, a guide. Check your local area and see what pricing is for comparable motorhomes. See what the selling price is, not the asking price. There usually a difference.

How level is the coach when its leaking. If the rear is only slightly higher it may be leaking from somewhere towards the back. Try lifting the front slightly and see if it still leaks. On mine before I replaced the Dicor roof, it would leak at the rear if it wasn't slightly higher than the front. My leak was on the rear wall.

Its gelcoat cracking. Common in poor lamination, like too thin and to much flexing.

Welcome. Motorhoming is a great way to see the country.

What is the reason for your dislike for a battery?

Not a good idea. I think the early rv refrigerators did not require electricity just like the home evaporation refrigerators of the 30's.

Thats exactly what mine looked Thats exactly what mine looked like.

You might try a stronger spring in the surge controller. It will then take more pressure to activate the brakes. It is proportional.

I was told by a tire mfg that a zipper split on the sidewall is usually caused by under inflation. I had that happen to me before I installed Tire Minder system. Now I will know when I am loosing air.

Its probably past its useful life. Needs replacing.

Have you weighed the axles? The correct inflation is set by weight according to the tire mfg inflation table. The sticker pressure in the coach is not always correct.

What kind of batteries do you have? You need to have deep cycle batteries such a two 6 volt golf cart batteries.

How much air do you have in your tires, are they inflated to the tire mfg specs?

I would guess that the max would be 15-16 volts. I think you need to use a deep cycle battery and let the solar panel charge the battery.

I prefer not the have flex hoses and I have seen too many failures in our RV business the last 30 or so years.

Do you get high idle when you hit the resume on the cruise control? Might check the throttle pedal harness plug, may have come loose.