desertdeals69

I mounted in the propane tank compartment which is open to the bottom.

I would get a Walmart atlas which list all the stores and Sams clubs and locations.

What isolator do you have? It sounds like you may have more than one problem.

3M has a new spray on coating that is supposed to peel off easily. I believe its called Defender.

The standard RV outlets that are used are approved by RVIA and work very well. Like anything, if it is defective it can cause problems, but not due to design. It is not an accident waiting to happen. We have been using and installing them for over 35 years and never had any customer complaints.

If you have a toad be sure it has brakes.

If it is wired in before the ATS I think it will give you more protection because as pointed out things such a lightning and other line irregularities, would be stopped. Irregularities with the gen power are very rare.

The reason I recommended a Class C was the $20k cap. If you have unlimited funds my recommendation would have been slightly different.

It is added until the correct pressures are reached.

I think that the required difference of 3 or 4 inches probably has to do with heavier cars. The problem is the leverage of weight is multiplied with the heavier cars and the SC is relatively light.

I think the best bang for your buck would be a class c gas. Relatively cheaper tires and other things such as maintenance.

You need to check different sources and compare prices for the different models and then determine which is best for you.

Need a little more info on the problem. Are you talking about the 120 volt stuff?

Do you have the winegard power suppy/amp with digital readout? I have one and it works good. Mine came with the wingman.

There is usually two locations, one back at the engine and the other near the steering column.

Do you have a latching relay on the battery. Check to make sure it is passing current when on.

Water will emusify any kind of oil. I have dealt with water in the crankcase in boat singings for 50 years and 100s of engines. Not a big deal, flush out with diesel in the crankcase.

On mine I had to cut grooves in the fiberglass to access the adjustment screws.

What brand?

Thats great news to hear.

I had to have both front windshields replaced a couple of years ago. My insurance company picked up the total bill some $2700.

I have been using synthetic Rotella T6 for a number of years and have run for more miles than with conventional oil. I have the oil analyzed at proper intervals and go by the results as to when to change. I have a Cummins ISB 5.9 with 140k miles.

A lot of 4 jack systems have the front two jacks hooked in parallel so you don't tweak the frame so bad. They will not be anymore stable side to side than a single jack.

No matter what you do it will never be rock solid. Even cement multi level parking shake!

There is no RV that will be 100 percent. Even when you think everything is fine something else will need attention. We have motorhomed since 1976 and over 300,000 miles and we have never returned home without something needing fixing. It maybe something small or more major, but its always something.