rayin

My local LP retailer also re-fills MH tanks, so that is another option; search phone book for LP retailers. His price per gallon is the same as home delivery, right now $1,99/G.

Welcome James!

Must be a FL approved ins. co., to even offer coverage in FL. There are ongoing changes to that list, check with FL state Ins. commission.

Exactly!

The 2 small wires on the solenoid should have constant 12v one and 12v volts on the other when key it turned to start, and constant 12+ on one of the large battery cables. when key is in start position both large battery cable terminals should measure 12v. If that is happening, a cable is defective.

Many are connected to an ACC fuse, some have a fusable link in the line somewhere.

FWIW, I use 50 MPH as average speed when calculating driving distances, this allows for refueling, breaks, etc, and for me is usually accurate. As Jim said, you;'ll find many CG;s open along Interstate 10, but from Amerillo TX West into central NM you might encounter snow, so allow for 1-2 day layovers JIC. Jim mentioned the chain-up laws in some states; my opinion is if the highway is snowy I don't drive. I'm 82, slick roads are not in my driving schedule, I don't even like to drive our MH in heavy rain. It'll take you 7+ days to reach the West Coast, with no delays driving the Southern route from PA. if you drive short days and allow relaxation time later. I normally drive 350 miles/day and stop around 3pm. This pretty much insures I'll find an open site in an RV park and not be so dog-tired I cannot relax and enjoy dinner.

On the end of each solenoid is a manual valve opening, it will either be a T-handle, hex nut, or plastic flip lever. Regardless of type, open it 4 turns or flip the handle 90° to open the valves of the 4 solenoids. The springs will retract the jacks, then close the valves to snug or flip the lever back to the original position. If you have jacks with no springs, use a pry bar to push the jacks to fully-retracted then close valves. As to service, determine your model# leveling system, then follow the troubleshooting section directions in the service manual. You'll find the service manual by googling your model# and service manual.

My DW would've said, " walk, you ain't driving my car". The only time she allows me to drive her car is when I chauffeur her. FWIW, the best driving and riding auto i ever owned was s Lincoln Mark V., but it was not a town car, it liked the open road.

Well, we're waiting_did you save the soup?

Have you ever found a person that has one and uses it successfully? Your purchase comes in a email with a download link, there is no hard copy book to study as you are working to build this device. If it doesn't work, the onus is on you to prove you did everything correctly, how would one accomplish that?

I only get 1 other month too, been that way for 2 years anyway.

Since the coach mfgr. has absolutely nothing to do with your issue, you must contact Allison Transmission through one of their many service centers,.

The website has current information on CG's and everything else: https://www.nps.gov/olym/planyourvisit/conditions.htm

Have drive engine running or be plugged into shore power. HWH leveling systems require 13+ VDC to operate properly. Fluid reservoir should be full to within 1" of top when jacks and slide rooms are retracted.. DO NOT use hydraulic oil,, it will cause expensive problems, only use what's specified in the operator manual; which most likely is HWH oil or Dextron III ATF..

It's not a pop-off valve, it is the purge valve. The purge valve works in conjunction with the filter/desiccant dryer. The filter should be replaced every 3-4 years for a MH. The filter removes water and oil mist from compressed air. If said moisture and oil mist get into the compressed air ttanks it must be drained out or it will work its way into the air brakes and likely cause expensive problems. Most any auto supplies store sells new filters, as well as HDT repair shops. Follow installation directions exactly when replacing the filter, any dirt introduced into the filter housing will cause problems in the future.

What appliance does that fit? If yours is a 2-wire thermister, check out this one. https://www.boatandrvaccessories.com/products/atwood-33294-remote-temperature-sensor-6-inch-kit If that fits, I give credit to the duckduckgo.com search engine, IMO it's the best one available.

Is that the only thing on the dash acting irradically? If yes, that narrows down the possibilities. First check every ground connection, yes it's a tedious and laborious job but who would you rather have doing it, you or a professional mechanic @ $120/hr? It can even be the ignition switch acting wonky.

There should have been a metal trim strip covering the front cap transition to the roof membrane to hold the membrane in-place, or, the membrane should be tucked under the front cap and secured in place with an adhesive sealant. The pictures show the membrane was not installed correctly IMO. All that old sealant must be removed before proceeding, If silicone was used, it is practically impossible to remove the residue with a special cleaner, or nothing else will stick,, not even more silicone-which should never be used anyway. There is a reason it's the cheapest product on the shelf. Have you considered securing it with Eternabond tape? Properly applied(follow all instructions exactly) this tape will hold the membrane in place while waterproofing the joint.

During the past 23 years, FMCA has changed suppliers 2X.

Progressive Insurance has treated me right. They have a reducing deductible, if you have no claims it can reduce to $0 over time. I've had 2 claims in the past 3 years and my annual Ins. bill is $1,080 this year. Beginning next year deductible begins reducing again. BTW, it's best go through an independent Ins. agent IMO, this way you have someone you can actually converse with, not chat on the computer.

Fifth wheel hitches fit between the wheel wells, so that should not be an issue. Why buy a single rear wheel 350 when the 250 will carry practically the same load, they both have the same load range tires, which is the limiting factor.

Yes that's our plan; I'm focusing on making sure everything works properly in advance of selling. I've read far too many horror stories of newbies buying a MH rife with problems. That 2½ years of sitting in a body shop parking lot was hard on everything. The short trips will substitute for shake-downs while having a bit of fun and relaxation away from the house and farm. I can't even keep up the farm now, my tractor is in the shop for head gasket replacement and who knows what else after the head is removed. I now wish I hadn't sold my other tractors. What was once pastures is now hay fields, but the man who harvests the hay can't because his baler is broken and all the farm equipment repair shops are behind so far he can't get his baler repaired. Every shop I have spoken with says they cannot hire good help, they are either on drugs or won't work.

Making progress; I have the new LED docking lights installed, now when I turn them on to back into the garage at night it's brighter than daylight. I have about 6 hours and $50 in that project. Kwikee step stopped working, an $8 spray can of contact cleaner fixed that issue. Cost me $60 to have a local RV shop replace the foot-pad on the HWH jack, I wasn't strong enough to do it. Got the entire MH washed inside, except for the carpeted ceiling. Man, I didn't know the walls, wood cabinets and leather furniture were so dirty. Tasks remaining; change oil N filter in drive engine and genset motor, wash coach, check coolant for strength of DCA additive. I'll think of more to-do items when I get bored again. I want everything shining and ready to hit the road when we put it up for sale.