rayin

Exactly!!

Regrettably that is the real and present hazard of buying used equipment. In this situation Blue Ox cannot be responsible. When was the last time the tow bar was serviced per Blue Ox instructions? Hopefully your insurance co. covered the damage. BTW, This demands your hitch and attachment to the MH frame be inspected for damage too; in fact MH mfgrs. recommend annual inspection.

You are replying to a 7 yr old thread.

Call HQ and ask them if they are really recommending this road service over the present company they have contracted.

Atwood does not list a model GE16; here is the Atwood service manual: https://myrvworks.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Atwood-Water-Heater-Service-Manual.pdf

Any HDT repair shop should have an alignment machine, but don't cheap out and just get a front end alignment, instead ask for a total chassis alignment, this explains. https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/alignment-specs-thrust-angle-and-setback/ I had that performed on my Spartan chassis and the rear axle was out of alignment by 3/4".Now it steers much much better and doesn't pull to one side constantly.. The initial sign the chassis is not aligned properly is, the steering wheel doesn't sit level when driving straight. For my DP MH the total alignment at a HDT repair shop was $300.

I keep telling my wife not to unbuckle while the MH is moving,, If I can I'll pull over ASAP and wait until she's buckled up again. It irritates her but, I'm selfish, I want her around for a long time yet. That guy thrown out of the MH was entirely his fault. If he thought his wife was asleep he could still talk and yell.

X2. We await your reply.

Welcome aboard SGM! I got the latest COVID shot in Dec. and it knocked be down for a week. I'd like to also extend an invitation to join S.MA.R.T.= Special Military Recreational Travelers club. Membership is limited to active, former, and retired military veterans of the U.S.A. and Canada. We have members from all branches and ranks, from a General to 2-yr draftees. If you like staying at military famcamps, check out this website: https://www.militarycampgrounds.us/component/users/?view=login&Itemid=180

Bandit I might bee able to help, but first we must identify the make and model of your leveling system. If it is HWH, this will help ID model#: http://wanderlodgegurus.com/database/House/HWH/HWH Leveling System Identificaiton.pdf The size and shape of the control box is one specific clue; the plug in the back of the control panel is another. Then each component has a sticker beginning with AP XXXXX. When we know the model# locating the service manual and parts list is easy. IF we get stumped: Suggest you contact Paul at AZPETE on the Irv2 forum. He works for HWH and can answer your questions. His email is pfmaddox@att.net and his phone number is 602-549-3638. He is a Commercial Member of irv2.com and has posted that his phone is always on, and if not answered, leave a detailed message. This webpage, and the links therein, by HWH answers nearly every question about their product.https://www.hwhcorp.com/ml20673aafaq.html#SystemMaintenanceQuestions If your system is LCI, I don't know much of that system. This links to LCI slideout systems and documentation.https://corporate.lippert.com/products/rv/slide-outs

Now I don't feel so bad, my front cap damage will cost close to $6,400 to repair.

Every USDOT tire manufacturer has had to recall tires at some point. Sailun tires are built like Michelin truck tires, but are a bit heavier. I ran Sailun tires on our 5er for several years. Once the axle U-bolt broke at one wheel, this allowed the axle to slide back about 4". The result was tread completely scrubbed off that tire down to the steel belts. I was in Alaska and a new tire was nowhere to be found. I continued the trip, putting an additional 6,000 miles on our rig, and that tire was still holding air and supporting the load when we got back home. That happened in 2012.

Hey wildebill, Here's the latest on my MH front cap repair. Took it to a different body shop 13 Dec, they said it would be repaired in 2 weeks. I called 2 weeks ago to get a progress report, and was told 2 more weeks it would be finished. I called today and a different woman answered the service dept. phone. She asked my name and said she'd have to find out and call me back; she never did so I called just before they closed. She said repairs had not been started and they'd had a 100% turnover in their service dept. Now I'm wondering if my MH is caught up in a bankruptcy or something??? If this is a nightmare I hope to wake up soon.

superbus, of those three, Moose is the most dangerous.

You did notice the original post was Dec, 2022 right?

Yes that is exactly how you add air to a hot tire. When tires are inflated to the minimum for the corresponding load, they are operating at 100% capacity. Comparatively. auto tires normally run with a 35% reserve capacity.

I wonder if you've inspected the air divider to be sure there are no gaps or cracks that can allow warm and cool air to mix? That is a very common issue and is usually the result of improper installation.

wildebill I've suspected the driver had a stroke ever since watching the video. I'd like to know. Read the write-up that accompanies the 2nd video: https://www.click2houston.com/news/local/2023/12/27/deputies-shut-down-i-10-eastbound-at-sheldon-after-chase-involving-18-wheeler/ The driver had no reaction to the tear gas shot into the cab, IMO that is a sure sign he had a medical issue that prevented some reaction.

Additionally the 4" top flange on the slide room must be cut off for the tru topper to work; no going back.

The sales brochure or the owners manual should identify the brand of slide mechanism, or perhaps there is a sticker on the motor with that information. Another source might be one of the replies in this thread.

By design the true topper must scrape on the roofing material. That means if there is any gritty or sandy substance on the slide roof, both the true topper and the roof material is being slowly damaged. I wonder how that would play out with an EPDM 10-yr. warranty?:

Welcome to the FMCA discussion forums! Please frequent these discussion forums and ask questions or just share your advice and experiences. Without knowing the brand and model of your slide room mechanism, I'd guess the limit switches need adjusting, which requires someone with the knowledge and experience with that brand mechanism. Once you know the brand/model you can go to their website and download the service manual, which includes a troubleshooting section.

Under the sink in the waste plumbing should a an air-admittance valve on top of a vertical stand-pipe. It's function is to prevent any negative pressure from sucking the standing water from the "P" trap. If this water is not present, vapors from the gray tank can escape and might smell worse than the black tank odors. If this valve is faulty it will not prevent that negative pressure.

I found https://www.xtremediesel.com/motorhome-diesel-power/exhaust-system#/showFilters that might have some parts you need.

I remember reading adds for camp hosts stating 30-day minimum, but all season preferred. Let your fingers do the walking: https://duckduckgo.com/?q=state+park+campground+hosts+by+state&t=newext&atb=v387-1&ia=web