rayin

X2, Flexseal contains petroleum products, at least the can say so.

Read the terms and conditions (fine print) closely, there are some surprises. For instance, Miss having adequate funds the next day, it's a $25 penalty-each day you have insufficient funds. That's just one.

Back on topic; I read your comments to say the only cooling issue is when traveling, is this correct? Check the drain tube from the refrigerator into the square cup beside the LP burner box, at least it is supposed to be in the evaporator cup. There is a small plug in the end of the tube with tiny holes it it. This is to drain condensate from the frig of course, and it prevents cool air from being sucked out of the frig by the air while traveling. The plug in the end is to prevent bugs from crawling up the hose while reducing the odds of air transfer. I have ran my Norcold 1200LRIM on LP every time I drive the MH. Now to the chance of fire, buy a Fridge Defend/ARP unit, its purpose is to keep boiler temperature well below the point where the system is over-pressurized and ruptures, which in many cases results in the solution catching fire when it exits the cooling unit. It will even temporarily shut off the heat source when you are parked on a steep grade, which caused boiler temperature to quickly rise to the danger point. When the temperature falls back into the safe zone the ARP unit returns power to the frig. Some folks are hesitant to use LP while on the road, and I understand their caution. The majority of MH fires are in diesel pushers, the majority of DP fires are in the engine compartment. Some are switching to residential refrigerators, this lists the top 5 household appliance fires, refrigerator fires are #4: https://www.consumerreports.org/cro/magazine/2012/03/appliance-fires-is-your-home-safe/index.htm

Removing the water is the end problem, preventing water from entering is the root problem. I have heard of drilling a 1/16" hole in the lowest point of the headlamp reflector assy, draining the water, removing the bulb, and allowing it to dry for a few days (covered from any water source) then using sealant to seal the hole. I've never attempted that, as I've never had the problem.

This is exactly what Brett stated, in visual form. Copied from "the 12V side of life" Black batteries

Contact the chassis manufacturer directly; another source may be a local HDT repair shop.

hatfieldd, is this your air conditioner/heat pump? If that is like yours, perhaps etrailer has a thermostat for your unit. BTW, Dometic owns Atwood now.

I'll be nice and not say it. 😏

jc, could it have been one of these threads?: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f52/tdi-products-outstanding-customer-service-66087.html https://www.heartlandowners.org/archive/index.php/t-50907.html If you are considering buying a used reel: https://rvaccessories.visonerv.com/cgi-bin/f/rvelectrical.pl

That article was written by a woman who retired from the IRS, and disclosed what was previously confidential information that was only available to tax relief companies, she also created that flow-chart. None of us will need that information until we run afoul of the IRS.

If you aren't sure your present thermostat is working properly, hopefully this pdf will help with diagnosis; http://www.rvcomfort.com/pdf_documents/1976376.pdf

That's great, by process of elimination, the cause may be discovered.

Would a 2-stage furnace thermostat be adaptable? Use one stage for one AC, 2nd stage for 2nd AC. I don't know, just thinking out loud.

This is a different twist on the saying "Don't mess with Texas". Don't mess with taxes. If I had to deal with that as my job, it would surely give me apoplexy.

Been laid-up with back out of whack, sorry for taking so long. I talked with the HDT shop owner, explained the situation. He suggested it might be a leaking air diaphragm in the spring brake chamber. When I am able to walk and drive without back spasms I'll make an appt.to have it diagnosed and both spring brake chambers replaced, they only cost about $50 ea.

I agree with richard5933. In addition, I have a few questions. Have you tested or had the entire 50A cord tested for high resistance and fluctuations under load- megger test? Has the MH main entrance panel been inspected for loose connections, over-heated bus bars, etc?

If the 120VAC heating element is shorted, it WILL trip the breaker! I doubt it is 12VDC , unless the ignition element is shorted. re: breakers. Mine are nearly all circuit breakers, the only fuses I know of are 1. on fridge circuit board, 2. main fuse in battery compartment, 3. 2 fuses on HWH system, 4. each radio has a fuse in back. 5. microwave/convection oven has a fuse behind touch panel. 6. Ice maker has a fuseable link in wiring harness, if that counts.

I was wrong and misled everyone, it is not an aftermarket stabilizer, Spartan has their own design steering stabilizer, look at the link I posted in my previous post.

LloydW, This website may be useful in one way or another: https://usedrvparts.visonerv.com/cgi-bin/c/rvsalvagemotorhomes-partingout.pl If your MH it totaled, it might be a place to sell, then again it might be a source of replacement parts if your MH is repairable. They may even be able to haul your MH back into the U.S.A. Their semi-trailer is visible in some of the pictures, a low-boy roll-back wrecker trailer. If I remember correctly, my insurance co. will re-reimburse me for a covered expense incurred in Mexico, after the fact, when I present the proper itemized bill. Ask your agent, the worst they can do is say no.

Go to shockwarehouse.com and look up your shock numbers via their drill-down menu, then find the lowest price. There are a number of complaints about shockwarehouse delivery delays, mine arrived a week later than the date they stated on the receipt.

14 and 16 are both highlighted in yellow in my truckers road atlas, that means if they are safe to travel for fully-loaded semi-tractor trailers, the must be safe for my MH+towed too. I drove both state highways about 20 years ago with my pickup and 5er. Now the 87(sharp curves, narrow) has a 10' clearance tunnel, I watched the commotion when 2 MH's ignored the yellow 4'X8' sign at the junction with 16, there were 2 miffed state troopers working to get them backed out the 3 miles to the nearest turnaround.

Also check the ground connections, over 80% of all 12V issues are the result of a poor/missing ground.

I always balance all wheels, in my thinking an unbalanced set of duals might bounce/rebound enough to over-stress the air springs or wheel bearings. Then there is the sidewall flexion factor for the same reason. IMO it was money well-spent. Now where is Roger when he is needed?

This travel trailer weight calculator will work for your needs, just substitute your MH weights for the tow vehicle, and substitute your vehicle weights you plan to tow for the travel trailer. Tongue weight in the calculator may be ignored.

Wayne, look at your Reyco-Granning IFS front end, there should be 2 holes in the framework towards the starboard side, above and just forward of the tie-rod. The bracket on the drag link uses 3 "U" bolts for attachment. If I can remember I'll post a picture or 2 of mine. You can see the shocks in the first picture of my IFS here: https://www.spartanchassis.com/cps/login/UploadedFiles/D9834 IFS1200-1320-1370_3920091033404218750.PDF