rayin

Wayne, look at your Reyco-Granning IFS front end, there should be 2 holes in the framework towards the starboard side, above and just forward of the tie-rod. The bracket on the drag link uses 3 "U" bolts for attachment. If I can remember I'll post a picture or 2 of mine. You can see the shocks in the first picture of my IFS here: https://www.spartanchassis.com/cps/login/UploadedFiles/D9834 IFS1200-1320-1370_3920091033404218750.PDF

I must be blind, I don't see one on a 12000# front end, thanks a lot_.🤣 Carl, apparently my 1999 Spartan MM GT with Reyco-Granning 1200 IFS came with one. I called Spartan CS and asked, I was told new stabilizer shocks are $77 ea.+shipping and taxes. I bought the Rancho RS5403's off Amazon for $57 ea, same shock as OEM.; oddly they were shipped from a small town 47 miles from me. I may have been able to buy them locally and skip shipping.

The Spartan chassis W/ IFS comes with such a steering control, I replaced the "shocks"(Rancho brand) 2 weeks ago, as it turned out the old ones were still good.

How slight? If your coach passes the air brake test don't worry about the leak, just replace the dump valve ASAP, and watch your air pressure gauges closely in the meantime.

Ya, it's a contract, reading the fine print is highly advisable.

Some disconnect due to pricing structure, I always stayed connected when possible, regardless of pricing, for the sake of convenience. P.S. They do not take your word for length(during our trip), they have a good eye, and measure randomly with a wheeled tool. If they find the owner lied, they may move that rig to the back of the lineup.

All major truck stops have tire centers, start calling.

And to think I was drafted into that, and all I got was a free haircut: https://www.military.com/daily-news/2019/07/03/army-now-offering-recruits-40000-join-infantry.html?ESRC=eb_190704.nl

I see that truck dealer on the satellite view in front of the parking lot. My bad for believing what I saw on the internet, thanks for the explanation.

The map on the FMCA home page lists commercial members. Who knows how may incorrect listings are on the map. Look at the SW corner of the intersection of I 465 and Indiana 37 on the South side of Indianapolis. It has a red marker that says M & K sport coach; zoom in close and switch to satellite view. What you see is the red marker in the middle of a parking lot for semi-trailers and trucks. Attention to detail is all important, take care of the little things and they do not become big things. In this instance a commercial member is not getting their moneys worth, I don't know where they are located.

Bill, someone else would have to watch, I'd be hunkered down somewhere safer than a campsite. The way the advertising reads, that is something like the trip-flares we used in the Army, only longer lasting.

The usual in-tank monitor probes are made by Horst, just look at this picture of them and you quickly realize how and why they get fouled-up so easily. I made my own tank flusher from CPVC pipe, water source was city water @ 100psi, when I manually flushed the black tank I was surprised at how much paper and gunk came out. The tank sensors also began working-until they foul-up again.

I forgot my drain plug once, I remembered what a neighbor told me about that situation. I opened the throttle all the way and the resulting draft sucked the water out of the sump,I reached behind the transom and installed the plug. The rest of the day went great.

I used to do that about 6 decades ago. Can't do it-or much else now, too stiff and fumble-fingered, plus tremors. My first bike was a Harley 250cc trail/street bike , my last was a Harley 900cc sportster. (only pegged the speedo once @ 120) Thanks for the memories Herman, if I was 20 years younger I'd jump at the chance.

Pull Start Fire will start and maintain a fire in 200+MPH wind. ??????

Richard, I solved that TPMS removal/installation problem on my Alcoa rims. I bought a foot of 1" heater hose, pushed it over the TPMS and unscrewed it, re-installed it the same way. One caveat, take care not to over-tighten The TPMS. My first time, I did over-tighten it and broke the brass fitting out of the plastic housing.

My understanding of Cats Eye and other such systems is they only equalize when adding air, but when one tire loses air it does not draw air from the other dual tire. Were it not for the chafing issue I would have installed one of these systems.

What some refer to as a transmission fluid cooler in the radiator is a misnomer IMO. How much cooling effect will occur from 195° engine coolant? It is actually a transmission fluid heater IMO. My Allison temp gauge run 180-190° during normal driving conditions, when climbing mountain it may reach 205°-210°. Very little cooling will occur under those conditions. I've never seen an Allison automatic transmission without a separate oil cooler, even my old Chevy Duramax W/Allison AT had an OEM external oil cooler.

Bad link

Thanks for updating us Jim.

My take on this is; at least one battery is faulty, this causes the charger to draw more current than available, when the inverter is turned on it supplies 120VAC power to items other than the charger. Since you have SLA batteries, remove them, take them to someplace like Interstate Battery and have them tested. I'd bet the bank requires replacement, DO NOT just replace the bad one; the old batteries will quickly ruin the new one. What happens is, the old batteries keep demanding a higher charging rate in an attempt to reach full charge, this over-charges the new battery enough to sustain permanent damage.

When re-charging the A/C system for the dash air, the low pressure line has the charging port, the high pressure side port is a different thread so you don't connect incorrectly. If the line is cold to touch that is the correct line for adding refrigerant/low pressure side. (A/C system must be running on max. for at least 5 minutes prior to/and during re-charging)

X4!

IMO the first action you should take is to weight your MH when fully-loaded to actually know how much excess rear axle capacity is available.

My suggestion is to first determine the maximum torque rating of your transmission, that is usually the limiting factor for adding HP/torque. I once owned a 1996 Dodge CTD pickup, increased HP/torque. Three months later replaced the fried transmission.