rayin

Keithl, this video explains how to lube the S-cam. Also this pdf explains lubrication why and don't's www.rvsurvey.com/Documents/rvbrakes.pdf

When we bought our MH, I doubt the S-cams zerks had ever been used, my LF brake did the same thing, plus a loud pop. It took greasing, driving, greasing, driving, 3-4 times to eliminate the brake jerking the steering wheel hard left. The S-cam housings have a weep hole for excess grease to escape instead of pushing into the drum area. The only problem with that is some commercial grease gun setups have too much pressure and volume, which can push grease past the seal into the drum area due to the small weep hole. I always use a hand gun for that reason. Like you said, be careful! A little grease is good, too much is $$$$.

Been stuck in mud at a rally yet? No-one wants that,but we all want out.

Auto Zone lends tools free of charge. You must leave your CC info on file until you return the tool. I've done so several times for expensive tools I only use once a year or two. Back then if they didn't have the tool they even bought one to lend you.

I learn more every day. My 1996 5.9 lift pump was the first thing in the progression from tank to injection pump. When I had my lift pump off to replace the flexible lines from the metal lines along the frame to the pump I removed the screen to check it-clean as new. The flexible fuel lines though were collapsed inside enough to restrict flow, causing the engine to lack power on a hard pull, that was 2001. Wasn't that about when diesel fuel was changed? Yes I remember The Blob, scary then, hokey today.

I would do a pre-fit before actual use, even though they show them on a class A MH in one of the videos. The also show them used on a pickup and SUV, even though the initial wording says commercial use only. The video that really got me was the semi using them on solid ice covering pavement. It deflected the tire by at least 2" as it ran over the TruckClaw, that had to damage the belting. I would never use them on pavement after watching the video, the sock would be better for that use IMO. They would be a boon at a rainwater soaked rally field.

While perusing the Iowa 80 truck stop website I stumbled upon this product for those muddy situations: TruckClaws. They are not cheap @ $300/pr, only 1 pr required for each drive axle per their video at the bottom of the page.I suspect that is still less money than just one tow out by a commercial wrecker. I may buy a pair for JIC security that I may find my MH stuck in a muddy field sometime.

My ISC has a lift pump, although I've never had it off, I would think it also has a screen like my old 5.9 CTD had in its lift pump. I wonder if algae can clog this screen?

Yep, same thing with car tires. A 16" tire can have the same OD as a 20" tire. https://tiresize.com/chart/

I asked my agent about those reasons for across-the-board premium increases . She said usually smaller or under-capitalized companies do this to recoup losses in the affected states, but larger companies only increase premiums in those affected states.

Gonna be difficult to find a diesel pusher that short. The only one I know of is a 1996/97 era Beaver Monterey. I know a man who owns one, they are a quality-built motorhome IMO, and the 300HP CAT engine really moves it up the hills. EDIT: there are newer diesel pullers that size on the market if that is an option.

I agree, same with hunting cheap fuel. For those talking about tax avoidance, remember that is legal. Tax evasion is NOT legal.

I have very successfully used Crown Black Streak Remover for boats and RV's since 2005. It is a simple to use spray on, wait 30 seconds, wipe off product. This company is located in KY = American made.

Consider this product for repairing wood rot: https://www.homedepot.com/p/PC-Products-Rotted-Wood-Repair-Kit-084113/100664090 There are many more similar products marketed, some may be better suited to your requirements. This website may be informative: http://conservepoxy.com/wood-rot-and-epoxy-faqs.php?Screen=wood-rot-and-epoxy-faqs

What about the RV owners who sell advertising to CG owners in the form of their CG map? What about the RV owners who work remotely out of their RV? See where this is going_. In Indiana farmers who own tractor-trailers to haul grain they produce are specifically exempted from CDL requirements, even though many have a legal business making money from raising grain.

If you, like most of us, drive a certain # of miles per day; check out https://distancesonline.com/ to see if it meets your requirements. If weather is a concern, another is: http://oss.weathershare.org/?Center=42.18529516716987,-122.097248046875&Zoom=8&Layers=CCTV,traffic #.XNuNAqR7nb0. I haven't played with Google My Maps enough to know what it does. It appears like it is regular Google maps on steroids. A pretty good phone app is Trucker Path, as the name implys, it only uses routes approved for commercial trucking. Truck Router is computer-based and is also a good resource for MH owners.

Your last sentence is dead on-so to speak. I once was reading a thread about leaving items sitting on the kitchen counter while driving. One man bragged they could leave their knife block sitting on the counter while driving and it never moved. Many years ago a man ran a red light and I T-boned him. With me slamming on the brakes then broad-siding that car, it threw my first wife from the bedroom(sitting on the bed) to the dash('99 32' Allegro). The sudden stop at the dash broke both her wrists, wrenched her back and bruised her from head to toe; she was lucky to survive IMO.

Reads right to me.

Hello Mark. That was an unrelated reply I made, sorry. I just reread every reply and your detailed explanations. **** and Lois touched on wiring. In a completely different situation with my old '02 Chevy dually, my mechanic finally found a broken wire in undamaged covering that was in a wrapped bundle. It would not make contact sometimes, but if the harness moved a bit it made some contact again. I don't know if this may be connected to your problem, I'm just throwing it out there for speculation.

. I have 3 12V Exide SLA deep-cycle house batteries that were installed in 2014. They are doing great-so far, cost about $80 ea back then. When I select the equalize feature, my Xantrex RS2000 inverter/charger will most often run for 5 minutes then display a msg the batteries do not need the equalization cycle and return to normal charge cycle. It does complete the equalization cycle about once every 6 months, and the time period varies, I suppose due to battery needs. When in storage our MH is always on shore power, if that makes a difference.

Yesterday I received a letter from Good Sam ERS; I supposed because I did not renew and I went with FMCA/Saferide ERS. Anyway it said they have a new ERS @ $69/yr. Closer reading found it stated it was for towable RV's only. That's the best I remember, I shredded it already. so if anyone has different information, correct me.

The air springs and air lines are the simple part of any air ride installation/generic so to speak; I suspect any brand system can be used to control them.

Following up on what Richard suggested; it would take a bit of work, but you might consider installing a Tee in the air line to the front air springs, then run a pressure hose to a manual pressure gauge in the cockpit. When this monitoring test is completed, remove the Tee and splice the line, or simply leave the Tee in place and cap the open port.

No DC or AC whatsoever right? I doubt a lightening strike would disable both at the same time, but with mother nature anything is possible. Is the main DC fuse downstream of the batteries passing voltage? Is voltage detected at the RV entrance for 120VAC? Approach it logically, begin at the power source and test every connection towards the end points until you locate "no power".

Just think, an rv repair shop would have charged you $135/hr+parts, environmental fee, shop supplies, state and local taxes; when they had time to diagnose, order parts, reschedule time to perform the repairs. You probably saved yourself several hundred dollars and 2-3 weeks in-shop time.