rayin

looks that way. https://www.shockwarehouse.com/index.cfm?mode=results&selected_model=2051246&selected_year=2008

If your steering wheel is off-center when driving straight, the likely cause is the rear axle is out of alignment. I had a total alignment performed on our MH, the tech found the rear axle out by 3/4". After the total alignment was performed the steering wheel was exactly straight/level when driving on a straight road. P.S. a local HDT repair shop does my chassis work and alignment.

If overfilled, excess hub oil should be expelled out the small vent hole in the red rubber plug, however, if the hole is plugged or too small excess hub oil can be pushed past the inner seal onto the brakes. FWIW, hub oil is not the same formula as differential oil.

I asked my SIL, who is general manager of truck fleet maintenance for a nationwide carrier. He said the fill hole is of course maximum fill, 1" below is minimum level. Rule of thumb is, if you can touch the oil with your index finger while it's bent at the first joint into the fill hole, the oil level is OK.I suppose he knows what he says, he's held that position for 16 years so far. I'm not going to add oil; replace it instead. BTW, the last leg of our trip the temperature sent by that tire sensor read the same as the other 3 rears, confirmed by heat gun. That eliminates anything mechanical as the cause of the previous higher temperature readings. I will not know anything further until I get the MH up on my ramps, or over my friends pit, this week to safely get underneath and do a thorough inspection.

Keeping in mind this is a standard household ice maker; this may be useful: http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/Whirlpool-icemaker-repair.html

Thanks a lot, you just lengthened my "to-do" list when we get home tomorrow. Really, thank you. I check every connection screw for tightness annually, and have replaced the old Marinco shore power receptacle, but never thought about checking the wiring to the ATS.

While driving that sensor read ~15° higher than the other rears today. I confirmed it with a heat gun when I stopped for a rest break. I'll be home tomorrow, just about 135 mi drive. I will call Carmichael's Truck repair tomorrow as soon as they open at 8AM and make an appt. to have him check everything possible that may be the cause. Thanks for the support and helpful information guys!

I don't know where you read that about 1A charging but it is incorrect. The B.I.R.D. is an intelligent switch, not a charger. Mine will re-direct recharging my house batteries at the maximum charge rate(user set via Xantrex inverter/charger) of 50A in bulk mode if the need is present. I replaced it in 2013 because the house battery bank was not recharging as designed. FWIW, that installation diagram is incomplete, at least for my MH.

Apparently the sensor battery change had some effect, after the new battery was installed the ambient temperature reads the same(was 20° higher) as the rest of the tires. Air brake test met the standards. differential oil level is OK @ 1" below fill hole. The air plumbing appears OK by looking at it from the opposite side with my bright flashlight, taking a test run tomorrow, if the temperature of that left inner dual begins to rise above the right inner dual again I will be within 20 miles of a truck stop where they have a service shop.° I would not crawl underneath without blocking or two 12T jack stands anyway, life' too short as it is without thumbing my nose at fate.

It's either mission accomplished or they left; either way no more ants seen since the bait blocks and spray.

Attention Winnebago owners! You will find your specific electrical and plumbing schematics, and parts catalog links here. The only caveat is if someone has previously modified anything. Not all motorhomes incorporate a BIRD relay into the charging system.

OK, thanks guys. I'll call FMCA ERS tomorrow and talk to their tech services. So far my action plan is; perform another air brake test, replace that sensor battery-JIC, crawl under enough to put eyes on the brake canister and measure travel distance compared to starboard side, take a short test drive, call FMCA ERS tech service with that information and ask questions. This( thank you Rich) is from the FMCA ERS plan:"Mobile Mechanic Dispatch Service. In the event of a mechanical breakdown, SafeRide RV Motor Club will assist in arranging the dispatch of a mobile mechanic to the customer’s location, if the customer is more than 50 miles from the nearest repair facility. The customer is responsible for all charges related to on-site repairs, including travel fees, parts and labor." I'm not surprised or upset with this, at 19 yrs old things happen for many reasons. FWIW here are a couple links to air brake systems I'm studying. It has helped me better grasp what may have happened. flxibleowners.org/article-the-brake-system/ https://www.suspensionspecialists.com/techinfo/Bepco_Air_Brake_Trbl_Chart.pdf

I was hoping someone knows all about FMCA ERS coverage. I'll call them tomorrow since it is not an emergency .

I didn't think of using it Herman, within 15 minutes temperature had dropped to the same as the other rears. I considered a failing battery but the air pressure was reading correctly, still should change it JIC. Didn't think of doing another air brake test either, I'm used to doing one each travel morning. Tomorrow I'll take a look underneath to see if the canister is leaking air or the air line; the air gauges showed steady pressure. Got any views on if the ERS will help?

Not applicable bm02tj. The TPMS displayed within 5 psi the same tire pressure as the other 3 dual tires. The diesel exhaust is on the starboard side of the MH. As I said, it just happened as I pulled into the CG, not enough time to smoke the brake shoes, the inner dual tire did not feel hotter than the outer tire. What do you know about the ERS coverage?

I had just pulled into a CG when the TPMS overtemperature alarm(160°) sounded for the LR inner tire, the rest of the MH tires read < 130°. I'm guessing it is the brake canister, anyway, I don't know if it is covered by FMCA roadside assistance. Any advice or direct knowledge? The only mobile mechanic service here wants a $250 minimum service call +????

Well___ Today DW spotted sugar ants in the MH. I re-treated a while ago. It will take a few days to see(not see?) results. We had removed all foods, cleaned thoroughly last fall after winterizing; guess they just liked the ambiance.

Your plugs may be fine, the 50A receptacle contacts may be what is corroded or "varnished" to the point they prevent a clean connection. Remember, the pedestal receptacles get a lot more use than your plugs, they become worn and lose their spring tension due to generated heat. This causes your relatively new plugs to appear like they do not work properly. I would not use sandpaper because it removes some metal with every use. Liquid/spray contact cleaner might be a better choice. Yes, the act of unplugging/plugging in likely did clean the connecting contacts enough to rectify the problem. FWIW, the spray contact cleaner may be used on the pedestal receptacle contacts without danger, just remember to switch off the main breaker.

Wayne is correct, plus; Borax/Boron (and Diatomaceous earth) also works on any insect with an exoskeleton/Skeleton on the outside of the body, it gets underneath the exoskeleton and cuts them up enough they hemorrhage to death. Boron is not completely safe to humans.

What Brett said is probable the issue. The transfer switch has nothing connected to 12VDC, it is AC voltage only.

AMEN! Freedom is not free, someone paid the ultimate price for it. Statistics show only 55% of the U.S. population know why Memorial Day/Decoration Day is observed. It began in the South after the civil war.

I can't use them. I just measured clearance. I have 5" between rear tires and compartment walls, if the MH rocks sideways about 2" between tire and fender skirt panel. They might clear, but if contact was made the resulting damage would surely cost more than a winch-out. Oh, well, it was a thought.

I would discourage putting any chemical on your fresh water hose, plastics are permeable and can absorb the chemical, then transfer it to the water flowing through. Sure it may be a remote chance_but.

Bill I'd have to measure my front/back clearance before purchase too. They might just gather dust in the basement and never used, but just one use would be worth the price. The one video shows them on a MH of some brand. My wife is improving to the point we may be able to resume traveling some again, I may just follow through with this product. If my MH rears don't have enough clearance from compartments, I'll settle for strap-on chains.

This Holset Wastegate Failure Diagnosis flow chart can help find your problem. As other replied, "seized wastegate valve-open position" is the usual cause. Your's appears to be sticking momentarily-on the verge of total failure. As they said, carbon-ed up or rusted.