richard5933

I did. Still going to check wiring to confirm it's correct, but won't stress if it is and I still have problems with GFCI pedestals.

The exhaust fan is in the ceiling and hard wired - no way of plugging it in any other way. It's never been a problem before, but we've never been plugged into a site with GFCI on the 50-amp outlet. The fan is identical to the small round Ventline 12v fans found in bathrooms, but this one is 120v. I don't think that they've made these for a while now.

Strange thing happened tonight, and I think that Custom Coach electrical work strikes again. Maybe you guys can confirm my theory. So, here we are plugged into a new 50-amp pedestal at a campground. So new that it has a GFCI breaker on all the outlets - the 20-amp, the 30-amp, and even the 50-amp. Written right on the pedestal below each outlet. Don't think I've ever seen a 50-amp breaker protected by a GFCI, at least not yet. Things were going great with no problems. Running our two monster CC a/c units and our water heater. Even fired up the induction cooker on 1500 watts with no problem. Then came the problem.... We have a small 120v exhaust fan over the cook top. I turned it on and instantly power was cut. At first I thought that maybe the little fan put us just over the limit on one of the legs, and that's what caused the breaker to snap. So, I tried again with only one a/c unit. Same thing happened. Every time that little fan is turned on, the 50-amp breaker at the pedestal snaps. Here's my theory... Custom Coach loved to interchange neutral and ground wires. They were not too particular about using only a hot and a ground if that's what was convenient. I haven't opened the fan up yet to test, but my hunch is that that instead of running a hot & neutral to the fan they ran only a hot and just used the chassis/ground for the other wire. Why? Because it's a lot easier to run a short jumper to the body (ground) than to run a neutral wire all the way to the panel. I've run into this in a few other circuits, and honestly thought I'd found them all. I've done lots of work trying to correct the neutral/ground bonding done by Custom Coach all over the place, and it wouldn't surprise me if this is one more example. Would this have caused the GFCI to snap and go to fault state? This is my theory, that having the ground involved in carrying power instead of a neutral caused the GFCI to trigger. I don't have much experience working with GFCI outlets and/or breakers, so hopefully someone with more knowledge can confirm if this would cause the breaker to go to fault state. Can't really do much testing right now, but when I get home I will. Don't want to open up the casing around the fan either, since there's no telling if I'll have problems putting things together at the camp site. Really silly to even have the fan, since there is a MaxxAir fan just next to it. Maybe I'll just take the little thing out and cap the hole.

Sometimes you have to drive using your temp gauge and not your speedometer.

I wasn't commenting on whether or not they should be pulled every day, just they are designed to be. Our trucks have air dryers, and we still pull the cables every day to make sure things are correct. If you don't pull the cable, how do you know if there is water in them? A little water in the brake system or air suspension can ruin your whole day. Likely you won't have to actually pull the cables during the test. They want to make sure you can point to them and that you know what they do. I've tested multiple times as I upgraded my license, and each time they specified that I would not be required to get under the vehicle at any time.

In order for EZ Pass to weigh your vehicle while on the road they'd need hundreds of scales all over the system. Many states use high-speed tolling with multiple toll "booths" in the traffic lanes. In Illinois they do that, as well as on all the exits. They do not have scales on them all. It is my understanding that when you register the vehicle with EZ Pass you have to provide the specifics for your vehicle. They don't physically check. But, get it wrong and get caught and I'm sure there is a hefty fine.

Those things are designed to be pulled every day at the end of the run. If they leak, then they need to be replaced. We pull them every time we do a pre-trip inspection and during the post-trip inspection on the trucks where I drive. If they are only pulled infrequently, it's quite possible for things to buildup in the tank which will cause the valve to not seal when they are pulled. Why does the tank have two? Possibly there is an internal baffle in the tank. It has two drains.

What state? How long is the motor home? How heavy? What, if anything, will you be towing behind? Those pieces of information are needed to answer.

Yup - the retirement thing was getting old after only a couple of years, and since my other half still has a few years left to work getting a job made sense. Having no real obligations left me with plenty of time to fill, and filling it was starting to get expensive. Better to have someone else pay me to be busy. I'll be driving regionally and home weekly. With the new sleeper cabs it's kind of like being in a small RV, just w/o the bathroom. Now I get to see the country on someone else's dime for a while. Won't do it forever - just until it's not fun any more. The problem with analog is that paper maps don't ever get updated unless you buy a new one. They also won't read instructions to you while you're driving, which is helpful in unfamiliar areas. Like I said though, it's important to verify the route in multiple ways (on a map, on GPS, w/ Google, etc.) Trip planning is important, and basically the same whether you're in an RV or in a commercial truck.

Like you said, all three options will function well. Personally, I prefer the raised connections if there is room for them. In my experience, it's easier to keep them clean. Even with the AGM batteries you'll have to do a periodic cleaning to keep debris from accumulating on the batteries, and having the cables directly on the case makes that more difficult. Regardless of which type you go with, check out the manufacturer's recommended torque for tightening the bolts to make sure that you get them tight enough but not so tight as to damage the battery. It sucks having to get a post repaired because it was broken due to user-error.

All the comments about the problems with GPS units need to be taken with a grain of salt. I've been using the Garmin RV units for years and have generally found it to be good. But, you have to verify the route it gives you BEFORE you start driving. There is a way to view the map of the overall route it presents, as well as a step-by-step set of directions. You need to look at these and compare with a good road map or atlas to be sure that it's not putting you on a dirt road or someone's driveway by mistake. Same for putting you on a closed road. I prefer the Garmin GPS units. The maps seem generally accurate, and they update frequently. Traffic alerts are also included. One thing I've learned about using a GPS in the RV is to use it EVERY time I move the rig, even if I know the route. Never fails that the one time I don't do that I encounter a detour due to construction or other unknown obstacle. Also, when free-wheeling w/o the Garmin, I have no early alerts of upcoming low bridges or weight-limited roads. It will only be able to guess where I'm going if I don't tell it. There is no sure fire way to stay out of trouble, but there are ways to help. I'm completing training right now for driving a semi, and they recommend a combination of things, including an appropriate GPS, a trucker's road atlas, and Google Maps. The appropriate GPS would include one which calculates the route based on the height/weight/length of your vehicle. If it doesn't include that feature, it's useless in helping you avoid obstacles in your RV. With that feature, it's not fool proof but it is helpful. The trucker's road atlas shows the national/state truck routes, along with known low-height bridges along those routes. Quite helpful. Google Maps can help you pre-drive the route and check for access problems using Street View. You can also use states' DOT websites to check for road closures and construction schedules.

I think I found a copy of the manual for your device online, and it looks like the charge is on page 40. Also looks like you can set user-defined values for the voltage level at each of the stages of charging. If that's so, then just custom set them to match what's in your battery manufacturer's instructions.

The was you know which profile setting is the correct one is old school... Get the manual for the controller which shows the voltage levels for each profile, and compare with the recommendations of your battery manufacturer for charging voltages. Doesn't matter what name or acronym is on the settings, you want to use the profile which most closely matches your battery recommendations.

I know that in Wisconsin, for example, part of the issue is that vehicle sales done off-site (not on the dealer's property) are subject to a 3-day cancellation clause where the customer can cancel for nearly any reason. You won't see many direct sales of any motor vehicle done where the final delivery/paperwork isn't done on the dealer's lot. If the rules governing motor vehicle sales are so restrictive, perhaps it's time to reconsider if the focus of rallies needs to be vehicle sales? I know that it's a big money maker, but promoting vehicle sales is not why FMCA exists. Go back to the early days of FMCA, and you won't see the massive vendor displays, vehicle sales, etc. You'll see people with a shared interest gathering together having a great time. In the bus conversion world, we also have rallies. The focus is not on vendors, not on sales of coaches, not on anything other than our shared love of vintage and converted buses. True, our gatherings are not nearly as large as a major FMCA rally, but that doesn't stop the fun. Another issue for us is winter. We winterize our coach for the winter, and there's no way we can even think about pulling it out to attend a March rally. I know that those rallies are great for snowbirds or those living in the south, but they narrow down the potential attendance greatly.

One of the big limitations for the rally locations seems to me to be finding a large enough site which also has amenable rules/regs for off-site sales of vehicles by dealers. Not sure if as many dealers/manufacturers would attend if the rules were more restrictive. Without worrying about that, there are some great locations in many places which could house the rallies.

That's the question I've been asking for a while - why don't we ask the people we want as members why they are not considering joining? It's not difficult to obtain buyer information for every RV registered with DMV offices across the country. I believe that having this information would permit us to do a survey and ask potential members why they are still potential instead of members? Just a suggestion, but one which I think would be worthwhile.

I would also suggest that this is probably not the most effective forum for anyone in leadership to engage in conversation about such things. While it's helpful for them to monitor pages like this, I've seen few conversations like this do anything other than become gripe sessions once leadership start participating. If there are more than 70K members, obviously we in this thread are a tiny speck of the overall. Hopefully there is a better way to measure the needs/desires of membership than this.

I wouldn't be surprised if some of the state websites are down/problematic right now. With many offices closed, there are bound to be issues like this since there is not full staff to go re-boot systems or correct problems. Combine that with the number of state govt IT people who have likely been moved from their normal departments to help work on the unemployment systems to help keep them from crashing, and it's not surprising at all to see DMV pages not working. I've encountered this happening on not just govt sites, but on many business sites as well.

Seems to me that a key to FMCA continuity is bringing in younger members. Does any one know if any type of survey / study has been done in recent years to determine what those younger members might find attractive?

Interesting, the difference between those of us with vintage coaches and those with modern motor homes. I often see videos of someone rescuing a 50, 60, or 70-year-old coach. When they check the fuel in the diesel tank, often it's discolored and old, but unless there is a leak allowing water in there is not usually a lot of water in the tank, if any at all. Doesn't seem like moisture should be able to enter a closed system. There is only so much moisture in the air above the fuel, and no matter how many cycles of heating/cooling take place it's just the same moisture that's forming condensation over and over again. My tank has a drain at the bottom where it's possible to check for water. For those without a drain like this, it's possible to use testing paste to check for water in the bottom of a tank. Just smear a little on the end of a dipstick, insert into the tank, and pull it out. If there is water in the bottom the paste will change color. https://www.amazon.com/Kolor-Kut-Ounce-Water-Finding/dp/B00905UC5E/ref=sr_1_3?crid=174OMFHIL7JV9&dchild=1&keywords=water+finding+paste+for+fuel+oil&qid=1587658768&sprefix=water+finding+p%2Caps%2C244&sr=8-3 The other thing to check periodically is the fuel filters. Many filters are designed so you can drain a little fuel from the bottom of the canister to check for water, and others are translucent so it's possible to visually inspect. Whether it's via the dipstick/paste method, checking the tank drain, or checking at the fuel filters, determining if you have water in the tank should not be difficult. If there is none, then the worries are less. If you find water, then you can take appropriate action (like draining it out.) Bottom line, physically checking for and then removing any water found is the surest way to avoid problems.

Not yet - the timing has not worked out yet. Between a work schedule to accommodate and not bringing the coach out of winterization until late April, it just hasn't been possible yet. Especially up here in the north, doing something in the winter season without the coaches would give members a chance to interact. Since the RV shows are in the cold season up here, it would be a great thing to build an event or social activity around.

Speaking of events - I've always wondered why every event needs to be a rally. Personally, I'd love to have a local event here in SE Wisconsin just to get to meet other FMCA members. Could just be a social gathering, or maybe a meet-up at a local RV show (there are typically 2 a year in Milwaukee area). Or maybe FMCA could have an information table at one of these shows with a social gathering for members during the show. To me it would be really nice to be able to build connections in person with other members, even if our rigs are not involved. Sure would make the rallies more meaningful if you were going to see friends that you interact with in person throughout the year.

That was me - I wrote earlier "Another thing that is not mentioned, but important, is the ability of an organization like FMCA to lobby on behalf of members for legislation and regulations favorable to us." Lobbying for legislation beneficial to the motor home and RV world has long been a purpose of FMCA and other organizations like it. The fact that there is an exception to many vehicle and driver licensing laws for owners of RVs is due in part to this type of lobbying effort. Here is a quote from FMCA's website: FMCA's purpose The purpose of FMCA is to organize social activities, exchange RV information, and supply benefits made possible, in part, by collective purchasing. The interest of the Association also extends into the area of political and legislative action. FMCA supports recreation programs and the legal rights of RV owners.

Two totally separate issues here - driver licensing and trailer towing laws. You may be legally licensed to drive/tow your rig in your home state (which would usually carry into other states) and at the same time your rig may not be legal to drive in all states. Driver licensing usually carries from one state to others. Vehicle/trailer legality does not. For example, if your home state does not require a Class B license to drive your coach you're pretty much good to go in any state driving it with your current license. But, even if you are legally permitted to drive your rig/trailer without trailer brakes in your home state, that same rig might be required to have trailer brakes in another and be illegal to two there without them.

Some states have totally separate rules for towing a trailer vs towing a travel trailer as well, as there are exceptions for an RV that don't exist for other types of trailers. So, it may matter if that trailer is a large 5th wheel or a large closed trailer with a car inside.