richard5933

Aren't those typically used when the power pedestal is not up to the proper voltage? Here we're talking about an inverter which may not be outputting the proper voltage. If that's the case, it needs repair/replace. First though, I agree that it should be checked with an appropriate meter.

That image came directly from the information Michelin has available online. I believe that it's in their printed literature as well.

Welcome to the FMCA forum! Glad to have you here. It's exciting that you're at the start of such an adventure. So many things to decide, so I'm sure that it's overwhelming. Here are a few questions to help make things even more confusing. But, they may help us help you if we know a little bit more about how all the pieces fit together. Have you ever pulled a trailer before? One anywhere near the size you're talking about? What will you use for a tow vehicle? Do you already have a truck capable of pulling the 5th wheel or does that have to be figured into the expense? Have you ever driven a straight truck or other vehicle the size of the Verona? The living space is only part of the equation. Feeling comfortable while driving is another, especially if you plan to see a lot during your year of full time living. Do you plan on spending a good amount of time in each place, or are you going to try and get to a lot of different places. One factor is going to be the ease/difficulty of setting up when you arrive in a campground. And if you get the Verona, you'll have to decide if you're going to pull a car behind, which would not be necessary with the fifth wheel which comes with its own vehicle for driving around the area once you set up the campsite.

Can you post a few photos of what you're trying to repair? I've fabricated lots of repairs like this in the past, but I'm having a hard time visualizing exactly what were talking about.

LOTS of ventilation (all windows open, etc.) and use a good mask which filters out organic vapors. This is not a project to do in the winter, unless you live somewhere warm enough to work with the windows open. With proper ventilation and a mask, these products are fine to work with. If you get suited up, you should not be able to smell the fumes through your mask. If you do, then you need to work on the mask fitment. Lots of good reading on this online. Don't cheap out on the mask - you want one with filter canisters which are specifically rated for use with organic vapors. A paper or fabric dust make will not suffice here. If you're working above your head, some type of disposable head covering is a good idea. An old t-shirt can be used for this - just put your face in the neck opening and then tie the shirt behind your neck.

I also steer clear of Michelin tires. Ever since I saw their guidelines about how much cracking was considered "normal" and "safe" I've questioned their ability to make tires. Michelin even has a chart out to help figure out if their tires are too cracked for use. I'd rather they spent some effort making tires which would hold up better to ozone instead of just providing a chart. Kind of like when the local road department posts a sign about a rough road instead of actually fixing the road. I've got Firestone tires which are about to be replaced. They are 8 years + old, and they show virtually zero cracking. I've never seen a set of Michelin tires which could go this long without cracking, sometimes seriously. All that said, regarding the tires in question here. I've read many accounts of dealers who gladly contacted the warehouse to confirm the age of the tires being sent over, and many who were happy to direct the warehouse to only send new tires. If your dealer wants you to spin the wheel and take your chances, I'd find another dealer. You can even order tires online from a few reputable places, and then have them installed locally. Of course, if your dealer wants to pro-rate the tires to account for the older manufacturing dates and provide a suitable discount, it might be a way to save a few bucks in the short run.

Possibly you've got fresh water running into the black tank, likely through a leak in the toilet. Wouldn't be the first time that a black tank overflowed through the roof vent and over the top of a coach.

Remember, the manufacturer has to self certify compliance with the standards. They don't submit every tire model for testing, and it's not till problems arise that anyone would know how much they actually meet the standards. The certification is only as good as the person doing it. My understanding is that the better companies pay third-party companies to test their products and confirm compliance.

Some possibilities other than the Michelin: https://www.hankooktire.com/my/trucks-bus/hankook-ah22.html https://www.continental-truck.com/truck/products/tires/people/hsr2-sa https://www.uniroyaltrucktires.com/tires/selector/info/ls24 https://www.bfgoodrichtrucktires.com/tires/selector/info/st230 https://www.goodyeartrucktires.com/tires/product-details.html?prodline=161100&prodcode=75696705000000&lat=42.9876076&lng=-88.34179840000002 There are also many other second-tier and lessor-known brands with tires in this size.

Lots of shops have a 'standard' pressure they use to fill newly installed tires. It's always a good idea to confirm the pressure they set is the proper one for your particular coach using the load and inflation tables. Like Brett said, if you don't have actual weight go with the placard until you get the coach weighed.

Yes - he said that the particular Michelin tires are NLA, but that they have been replaced by a new line of Michelin tires. And, as has been pointed out more than once - there are other companies with that size still available at a lower cost than the Michelin. I don't see anyone saying never to change tire size, only that before doing so it's necessary to properly confirm that no problems will be caused. In my opinion though, if the proper size tire is available it should be used unless there is good reason to switch, and then only after confirming it is safe for the particular coach.

So them you just reinforced my point... I never said not to make the change - I only said that it's important to verify that the tires you want will fit and will not cause interference. From your statement, it's clear that you did the homework to make sure that the tires you wanted will fit and not cause a problem. Just because it's physically possible to install a different size tire on a coach doesn't mean it's a good idea. Just because your coach came with rims wide enough to hold a 315 did not mean that you wouldn't have other problems. So you checked and made sure that there would adequate dual spacing, no interference, and be no rubbing, etc. You checked to make sure that your rims could safely carry a 315 before installing them. That's all I was trying to point out. Not sure why others are arguing such a basic point as checking for possible problems before changing tire size. And I would agree that the coach builder specs out their build the way they want. But, they have to work within the parameters that the chassis builder sets. They cannot defy the engineering without consequences. Someone at the chassis plant did the math and knew the size range that would work on their chassis, and then the coach builder could choose from that range. The coach builder also had to have someone responsible to select a tire which would work with the body they were installing so it would not cause interference and would carry the weight. If one wants to believe that some accountant in a distant office just randomly chose the tire, go ahead. In the meanwhile I'm going to make sure that when I put tires on my coach they fit without causing other problems and can safely do the job.

Not trying to nitpick or beat a dead horse, but other than possible cost savings what would be the reason in this case to change tire size when the proper size is available? The increase in width of nearly an inch could make a difference, both on the steer tires and the duals in the rear. Sometimes close enough isn't close enough and can lead to problems. I'd understand if the size wasn't available, but that's not the case here. Clearly the new size worked for you, but it may not be a good substitute in all cases.

I'm assuming that most Super C rigs built on a true truck chassis are using air ride on the rear axles. I looked through the Renegade site, but can't find any information on what they're using on the front axle. Anyone know?

Correct - the manual also calls for using a pressure gauge to properly set the cut angles. But, as with anything on a 45-year-old machine, there's always the risk of something else going wrong. I've had screws break off, parts get stuck, etc. doing some really simple things on past classic vehicles. No desire to wake a sleeping dragon if I don't have to. I'm replacing the tires one way or the other, so it just makes sense to do it with the correct size tires and not have to worry. For information's sake in case anyone's wondering, the coach originally came with bias ply tires with a G load rating. The 12R22.5 radial tires are an H load rating, and rated for much more than I will be carrying. I think I'll have about 3,000 lbs of headroom on the front axle, and much more on the rear. The 315s on the coach now carry an L load rating, and are really too much tire for the coach. Back to the original topic of the thread, my point was only to point out to the OP that it's necessary to do the math and be safe when switching tire sizes. I'm sure that others have safely substituted a comparable tire size for their original tires, but that doesn't mean that it will be safe to do so on the OP's coach.

Isn't it easier to just put the proper size tires on? If I trim the mounting plates, then the tire will contact the air bag itself. Not any better. Adjusting steering stops on my coach is done in the hydraulic system, not by physically moving the stop. Adjusted properly, there is 3/8" clearance between the steering components and the stop. The steering is 45 years old and I just don't see the wisdom of messing with it and possibly opening a Pandora's box when a simple solution is at hand.

That extra 1/2" on each side is more than enough to cause interference with steering and/or suspension parts. You're right, that it's not usually a problem. Unless it is. That's why I was suggesting that before just slapping different sized tires on there the proper homework is done to prevent possibly catastrophic problems. In my situation, the interference between the air bag mounting plates and the tires would possibly cause both a tire blowout and an air bag failure. Obviously something that I'm hoping to avoid, which is why money is being spent to mount the proper size tires.

It's very close except for the width. About an inch additional width, which may or may not be a problem. On our coach someone installed 315s instead of the proper 12R22.5 tires. All dimensions are nearly identical except for the extra inch of width. That extra width is enough to cause the tire to rub on the air bag mounting plates when the steering wheel is fully turned in either direction. Width matters and can be catastrophic. On some coaches, the rims do not provide adequate spacing on the duals to permit installation of the wider tires. Not saying it isn't possible to substitute these for the original tire size, just that it is imperative to do the necessary homework and math to ensure safe operation. There is also a slight chance that wider tires can reduce traction in wet/slippery conditions, but that's usually only when tires go really wide.

The DH15 is definitely a drive tire, not an all position tire or steer tire. I wouldn't try using them on the steer axle. They also don't seem to be available in 275/80R22.5 size, so they wouldn't be a direct substitute. The 295 size is wider, which may bring problems with clearance to suspension/steering components as well as dual clearance. Uniroyal does have tires in the size you're looking for: https://www.uniroyaltrucktires.com/tires/selector/results?l=WiEhITI3NS84MFIyMi41ISFmYWxzZSFmYWxzZSFmYWxzZSFmYWxzZSEhWiExMCEx

What happens when you perform a standard air brake leak test, like you would for a pre-trip inspection? If you lose air during that test, then the problem may not be in the parking brake system at all but rather in the service brakes.

Back when the previous company was making the FMCA plaques, I ordered a set just like this - just a vinyl sticker. That's actually how they are made, a vinyl sticker applied to a black plastic plaque. I'm not positive if the current company making the plaques can do this, but it's worth a call. Makes it possible to place the "plaque" virtually anywhere.

Many of these devices have a torque spec for the screws/terminals. I picked up a torque T-handle screwdriver to set them to accurately. Some took more effort to get tight enough than I thought, and a couple I found I was over tightening. And yes, it's possible to over tighten - some terminals will deform if too tight, and some will crush the stranded wire.

Has it always been this way or is this a recent change in how it sounds? In my experience in trucks, every valve makes that sound when applying the parking brakes. As mentioned above, the whole purpose of the valve is to release the air from the spring brakes so that they apply.

Of course it's removable - the question is how difficult it would be. Not sure at all how to do it on your coach or how difficult it will be. Hopefully someone else can help answer that. Most likely that thin layer of foam is glued to a thin piece of luan paneling, as mentioned in the reply you got from Winnebago. My guess is that the fasteners that hold the panel to the ceiling are located behind the trim strips between the panels. Things like this can be done with the panel in place, but if you need to re-glue the entire panel (or even most of it), you'll find it is very difficult to do overhead. Even more so to do it overhead and not get glue all over other things. And, it does look like the entire panel needs a re-glue. Curious to know if you have had any water leaks in this area in the past? Seems strange that just one panel is failing, so either they didn't put it together properly from the get-go, or there is something external to the panel which caused it to fail. My first guess on a ceiling panel would be a hidden water leak. Something to check, without doubt.

I've had success repairing a similarly-troubled headliner in a car before using 3M spray adhesive. It's basically contact cement in a spray can - apply to both surfaces, let it dry till the shine is gone, and then put things back together. You only get one shot though, cause once this stuff sticks it will want to stay stuck. Best to remove the panel and do the repair elsewhere - that spray will get all over everything if you do it in place. And, it will have fumes till it cures a few hours. (No fumes after that.) They make a few different flavors of 3M spray adhesive - you want the one that is meant to be permanent. I've used the stuff to hold foam sound insulation against the back of a generator cabinet before, and it is great for holding vinyl and fabric to most materials.