richard5933

Or, find a campground like the one we're at now, Trailer Ranch RV Park in Santa Fe. It's attached to a 55+ trailer community, and they have a strict 21 and over policy for short term RVs. Kind of nice not have kids running around screaming while we're trying to relax. Yeah, I know that this puts in me in the "get off my grass" crowd but I'm good with that. Don't think I've been to a campground with a more calm and polite group of people. Staff is actively engaged keeping on top of things, but not at all overly pushy with the rules.

Likely won't do much good taking directly to the parents. From what I've seen over the past few years they are likely to defend they kids. I agree that the speed racers create a problem, and probably the best approach is to talk to the folks in the office quietly.

A little JB Weld and you should be good to go.

Wow - that's the same shag rug that was in our 1974 coach when we got it. Thanks for sharing this.

Sounds similar to the exclusions in every insurance policy I've ever bought. Unfortunate for us that have a policy that they exclude claims resulting from a pandemic, but from a business view it makes sense to exclude a mass casualty type event.

Congratulations Herman!!

When I had my wood shop I used a step van with a GVWR of 9600 lbs. After closing the shop I transferred the step van to myself as a personal vehicle. I had absolutely no problem getting insurance for it from the same company that insures my autos - West Bend Mutual. It was not any more expensive than the cars either. Not, strictly speaking, a MDT, but it's certainly more heavy-duty than most pickup trucks. My suggestion would be to contact a good INDEPENDENT insurance agent. Not one who represents/works for one company, but a truly independent agency which can write policies for multiple companies. Helps if they can get your home and auto policies written with the same company, like we're doing, as you usually get a discount. A good independent agent should easily be able to write a policy for a MDT used for personal use.

Even before Covid we were paying $50-$75/ night at many campgrounds.

Most Airstream trailers have shocks - mine does and most I've seen do as well. The brakes are going to be pretty standard electric drum brakes. They work well, at least if the studs holding them on stay put.

The trailer is an ongoing project. Right now it's in the barn and I'm slowly gathering parts. Once I have everything needed to redo all the roof openings (vents, etc) the first step is to reseal everything, replace the openings, and make it weather tight again. Then I'll start the interior work. Axles have also been ordered, so when they arrive I'll be able to get the drive-line up to speed. I did have the brakes done before leaving NC, but the shop managed to install the new brakes without lock washers, causing the backing plates to come loose during the drive home destroying the brakes. The trailer needs new axles anyway, so I'm just replacing the brakes along with the axles (using the refund the shop gave me on their work.) Gillette? Unfortunately, not this time. We have a long-delayed trip to New Mexico coming up which will eat up most of our vacation time, and what's left of it will be used for a trip to see family in Virginia later in the summer.

Got this project completed. So far it looks like I managed to avoid letting the smoke out.

Decided to upgrade the stand-alone 2000-w PSW inverter on my coach to a hybrid 3000-w unit from Victron. The one I'm installing is a brand new model of their Multiplus II which can provide power to both legs of my 50-amp coach regardless of what we are or are not plugged into. It can also add up to 3000 watts of boost from the battery bank in case there is a short-term draw in excess of what we're getting from the pedestal, which should make it possible to run the a/c and microwave at the same time even if only plugged into a 30-amp pedestal, something that was always iffy with our old setup. https://www.victronenergy.com/inverters-chargers/multiplus-ii-2x-120v Not much room in the wire chase, so this has been fun as I try to squeeze two lengths of 6/4 cable in there. Getting it done though, with the major components in place. Now to make all the connections and then on to the programming. One thing's for certain though, my body does not do as well working in tight space and in the heat as it used to.

I've bought more than a few vehicles from out of state. Never have I had to pay taxes or register in the state where the vehicle was sold, only in the state where I was a resident. I've heard that there are states which require tax to be paid upon purchase, and then you have to file for a refund/credit when registering in your home state, but I've never encountered that. I just purchased a new truck and Airstream in NC, and I'm a Wisconsin resident. The truck was a dealer purchase, and we handled all the payment and paperwork ahead of time so I was able to register in my home state before going to pick it up. The Airstream was a private party, so after the sale we had their title notarized, went to the DMV for 10-day plates ($15) and then when I got home I registered it and paid taxes. The fact that you're going to keep the vehicle in the state you purchase it in may or may not matter. Not every state allows non-residents to register a vehicle. Check out the details with a phone call to the DMV in the state where you hope to register it. Also double check to see if your home state would be cheaper.

Right now we don't have enough information to really know what to make of this. Whether or not there is a data risk depends on more than the FMCA staff being able to see the information. Perhaps someone from Membership will join the conversation and let us know what's going on before people jump to conclusions.

Happy to report that the new truck, trailer, and driver made it home safely yesterday evening. Everything went pretty well, and now I've got a project list as long as my arm to get them where I want them. First step will be to give the Airstream a good scrubbing and time to dry out in the sun, and then it's into the barn for some TLC.

Lots of class A motor homes have tile nowadays. I'm probably going with a glue down cork flooring, since on a trailer keeping weight down is important.

I think so too. Some new upholstery, new flooring, and some more modern wallpaper and it will look like a whole new rig.

Couple of quick 'before' photos... Lots of interior work to do.

Haven't made it further than the hotel in town yet...I'll be in NC for a couple of days getting things squared away before heading home. Then it's going to be a few days of casual driving to get home. Once the new tires are in place I have a TMPS system to install on both the truck and trailer - on smaller tires like these are they usually installed before or after balancing the tires?

Update... Finally got to North Carolina to pick up the Airstream and Suburban after buying both sight unseen. Good news - they're both largely as described and functional. I know, there are ways to better check things out, but I did enough to feel comfortable with the deals. I will spend a day or two getting the mechanical systems on the trailer checked out, new tires, bearings packed, etc. Suburban seems pretty good, but I will get the tires balanced and the brakes inspected. The plan is to do some interior updating and then enjoy.

Welcome to the FMCA Forum! There was a conversation about this a few months ago, and perhaps it would be a helpful starting point for you.

Obviously if one is running their tires at the sidewall pressure there is no way to add an additional buffer. If one needs to run at sidewall pressure to obtain the proper load carrying capacity, then it seems to me either the tires are not up to the take or the coach is too heavy. I'm not an industry expert, but it just seems bad practice to run tires at their rated max load continually without any buffer. On my previous coach I went up a level in tire load capacity (same size) so that I could run at a lower pressure and leave some capability buffer in the system to avoid running tires at their max load.

When going through driver training last year for a semi driving job, the trainers would ask us what the signs said on the bridge just after we passed through the bridge. Every time. Doesn't take much to start noticing and reading every sign you pass and committing it to short term memory. I practiced reading EVERY warning sign out loud while driving my car for a few weeks before taking my test. Good thing too, as sure enough the examiner asked about a rather hidden sign after we'd passed it. Some of the signs to watch are not near bridges - watch for signs warning against truck traffic, warning about a truck route which ends or turns, etc. Not every warning about an upcoming problem is as clear as we'd like.

Meeting the minimum requirements (self certified, I believe) is one thing. Building a tire which has longevity and reliability in the long run is something different.

I agree with Carl - double check that you have adequate clearance between the duals, but also check that you have adequate clearance on the steer tires when you turn the wheel to both extremes. Your new tires are over an inch wider, so you have to be concerned about interference. Here's the page for your tires. http://www.prinxtire.com/product/bus/2020/1111/11.html