dickandlois

I run across this link that might be of interest to owners. http://www.grindtv.com/lifestyle/pro-active/post/good-bad-ugly-side-vanlife/ Rich.

Ray, Check the Battery Temperature Sensor to see if it is connected to the negative battery terminal. The manual does not specif any particular one. I'm thinking one of the middle one's between any pair. Still trying to absorb the manuals on your unit for any clue(s) ME-RC50. The settings, once programmed, are saved in the remote’s non-volatile memory and are preserved until changed – even if DC power to the inverter is lost (as long as the ME-RC50 remote is connected). For information on the full range of settings for each function, refer to the ME-RC50 Owner’s Manual. User set up of- Shore: This setting ensures the inverter AC loads receive the maximum current available from the shore power or generator. When the total current used to power the AC loads and to charge the batteries begins to approach the Shore setting, the current that was used for charging the batteries will automatically be reduced. 01 Search Watts: This setting allows you to turn off the power-saving Search Mode circuitry or adjust the power level at which the inverter will “wake up” and start inverting. 02 Low Batt Cut Out: This setting determines when the inverter will turn off based on low battery voltage. The inverter turns off automatically after the battery voltage has been below this setting for more than one minute. This protects the batteries from overdischarge and the AC loads from unregulated power (brown-outs). 03 Batt Amp Hrs: This setting allows the user to input the battery bank size in amp hours, which tells the charger how long to charge the batteries in the Absorb Charge stage. 04 Battery Type: Sets the type of batteries being used in the system; this information tells the charger what voltage level to use to charge the batteries. 05 Charge Rate: This setting can be used to turn off the charger, limit the amount of current that the charger can use (leaving more current available to power loads); or, to ensure small battery banks are not overheated because of a too high charge rate. 06 VAC Dropout: Sets the minimum AC voltage that must be present on the AC input before the unit transfers from Standby Mode to Inverter Mode. This protects the AC loads from shore power outages and brown-outs. Using the ME-RC50 remote also provides the following features: allows you to enable an equalize charge for certain battery types !!!! The EQ function automatically terminates after 4 hours of operation. You can also manually stop the equalize mode by pressing and holding the Charger ON/OFF switch while the inverter is in EQ mode. Copy of page 22 of the manual Equalizing - The battery charger is delivering the equalize voltage to the batteries; see Table 3-3, Battery Type to Battery Charge Voltages to determine the equalize voltage for your battery type. Equalize charging can be enabled by the ON/OFF CHARGER push button - if the SETUP: 04 Battery Type selection allows. Equalization charging can only be enabled while the charger is in float charge or in Battery Saver mode. To turn on equalize charging, ensure the LCD display reads “Float Charging” or “Full Charge”, then press and hold the ON/OFF CHARGER push button down (about 5 seconds) until the LCD screen displays “Equalizing”. The equalize charge will continue for 4 hours and then automatically stop and return to “Float Charging”. The equalize charge can be manually stopped by pressing and holding the ON/OFF CHARGER pushbutton down (about 5 seconds) until the LCD screen displays “Float Charging”. During equalize charge stage the batteries will begin gassing and bubbling vigorously which consumes water; ensure each cell has adequate distilled water levels prior to equalizing and add water as needed after equalizing. How often should I equalize? Some experts recommend that heavily used batteries should be equalized periodically, ranging anywhere from once a month to once or twice per year. Other experts only recommend equalizing when the cells have a low specific gravity or when the difference between any individual cell has a specific gravity reading greater than .015 after being fully charged. How long should I equalize? While the batteries are gassing, monitor the specific gravity readings every hour; when the specific gravity readings no longer increase, the equalization charge is complete and should be stopped. WARNING: Equalizing produces hydrogen and oxygen gas. Ensure the battery compartment has adequate ventilation in order to dissipate this gas to avoid explosions. CAUTION: Ensure you batteries can be equalized - only equalize your batteries if permitted by your battery manufacturer or dealer. Performing an equalize charge on batteries other than liquid lead acid or certain AGM types could permanently damage them. Refer to your battery manufacturer/dealer for instructions on how to properly equalize your batteries. CAUTION: Ensure the DC loads will not be damaged by the higher voltage applied to the batteries during the equalize charge. If in doubt, disconnect the DC loads to prevent damage. Info: Equalization charging is not available if GEL or AGM 2 is selected under the SETUP: 04 Battery Type menu. Link to the ME RC50 manual-if needed http://magnumenergy.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/64-0003-Rev-D-ME-RC.pdf Resetting the Inverter Under some fault conditions (e.g., an internal fault), the inverter will need to be reset. To reset the inverter: Press and hold the Power ON/OFF push button (see Figure 4-1) for approximately fifteen (15) seconds until the Charging/Inverting Status LED comes on and fl ashes rapidly; once the rapid fl ashing has begun, release the Power ON/OFF push button. The Status LED will go off after the push button is released. After the inverter reset is completed, press the ON/OFF push button to turn the inverter ON. Rich.

Ray, Maybe a little wine to drink would work. You might equip Tuffy with a GPS unit to see what he is up to. Might have found a friend. Rich.

Shelia, The information Brett ask for would sure help. You mentioned that you can only see the status of on unit on the display, hard to really tell, but do you have florescent lights that are on? The control circuits for the heat and AC units can be affected by noise. Did the heat work before you arrived at your winter site? If you disconnect from the shore power connection and run the generator - will the heat work? Rich.

Robert, Welcome to the Forum! Have you checked to see if you have power at the wiper motor connection? Some wiper motors have a stop position switch, controlled by a plastic cam system that can fail inside the motor. Rich.

CaptBMF, this is a link to the 2000 series system manual. http://www.hwhcorp.com/ml51385.pdf There is no mention in the manual referring to the system operation with the tag axle being in the up or down position or if the air ride system is connected into the air leveling system. This may be covered in your owners manual! Most coach owners place the air ride system in the lowered position to add some stability,(as mentioned by Herman) shorten the distance between the ground and the first step, this also reduces the distance the rams need to travel. This increases the coach stability, by reaching a good level mode without lifting any of the wheels off the ground. Rich.

The heat from the flame needs to rise freely up the flue. This assures even heating of the hear exchanger. You should be able to remove the roof cover and check for restrictions in the vent cover also look down the flue. Any restrictions need to be cleaned, like mud dabbers nests, wasp nests, and other items like baffles that have dropped out of place due to deterioration. Look for any deterioration of the flue pipe itself. Rich. PS-- The flame looks clean and directed up the cone properly ! The lower portion looks very clean, with no rust or other restrictions.

Mike. Herman made a good point. Also, think there is a good possibility that the brake shoes are not releasing because- the brake cable, shoe pivots, and the drum are very rusted. NOW, if you need to work under the coach, be sure to block the wheels. Because of the location of the drive shaft brake; you might need to remove the drive shaft and remove the brake assembly to free things up and then buy some new parts before reassembling. There is some information on the auto park brake set up, so you will need to cross that bridge once you have evaluated everything Rich.

One should be able to get an idea of the condition of the turbo charger by removing the exhaust system at the exhaust side of the turbo. Not all coach owners have the ability to do this, but knowing what to look for or ask the technician when servicing the turbo is a good starting point. Brett, mentioned that a Clean CAC and Radiator are crucial to maintain proper air intake temperature and coolant temperatures.. The spool should turn easy, with no visible damage to the vanes or the housing. Link to more information. http://www.dieselclass.com/Engine%20Files/VGT%20Turbochargers%209-05.pdf By looking at the image on page 2- The shroud plate, yoke and activation link should move freely. The link is moved by ether air pressure or an electric motor. By looking at page 10 one can see the funtion of the Speed Control Valve. This sensor rides on a cam that is positioned by air pressure or an electric motor. The sensor controls oil flow / pressure to bearings. Clean oil helps to maintain turbo temperature by keeping the ports of the valve clean. Proper cool down time is critical for this turbo design in order to reduce the oil in the turbo bearing from coking. The exhaust temperature from the turbo can reach 750+degrees C. under heavy loads. Rich.

CaptBMF, Could you post the HWH model of the leveling system used on you coach for the group? Rich.

pam.tobe.miller, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! Think you have a blown fuse or a relay issue in the Low Beam circuit. The smart wheel is all very low current, touch buttons that control relays in the system. Think your coach is on a Spartan Chassis. There should be a fuse / relay panel located in one of the bays under the front of the coach. If you have the owners manuals there should be a section that covers the fuse panes and where they are located. Rich.

Thanks, Action. You have taken the cold water plumbing out of the equation! After printing out page 9 of the plumbing drawing, more information is viewable. Looking at the printout, it shows a Strap valve that would be to the left of the Cold water by-pass valve and mounted to the back side of the water center panel. The valve number is 133491-01-CHT. I could not find out any more information on the material / parts call out list provided by Winnebago and there is no notes or mention of it in the wiring drawings I have checked. This valve appears to supply hot water to the hot water supply plumbing to all the taps. This valve is not mentioned in the owners information covering the plumbing system. You might give a call to Winnebago and ask if this is the valve that is causing your issue. Rich.

Twowhlrcr, Welcome to the FMCA Forum! The Flame is set at one level. Could you post the model number of the Norcold unit for the group? There might be some dirt build up in the burner and flue area, but having the model number will help. Do you have the manual for the unit in question? Rich.

Not clearly pictured or listed in the plumbing, there is a check valve in the cold water supply line at the back bottom of the water heat that has failed on a number of Winnebago coaches. If you can get under the coach safely and take a look to see if indeed there is a check valve in the cold water supply line. This is Winney's male part number-110438-02-000 Valve Check, Brass, 1/2" MPT x 1/2" MPT. This is the one listed in there call out list and the female part number-110438-01-000 Valve Check, Brass, 1/2" MPT x 1/2" FPT. Hope this helps! Rich.

Jack, The only thing that I can think of regarding the deforming and peeling is heat and UV. The fact that you list AZ as your home puts you in the bulls eye regarding both. You might look at this link and see if you think something like this would help find a starting point. http://www.curbellplastics.com/technical-resources/pdf/polycarbonate-architect-glazing-makrolon.pdf Rich.

The diodes are for the most part in the harness near the steering wheel, located in the wire harness and can be outside or inside. Now, Freightliner has drawings of the diode location on file for most of there chassis wiring. Do not know if they would be willing to share the information. They have a repair kit that is wired into the section where the problem diodes are that bypasses them (for some models) The last time I read about the kit it was between $180 to $200 plus the instillation fee. With your VIN number, call an see if they could offer a PDF file that would help you pin down the location easier then cutting the open a long section of the harness. Rich. NOTE: There are 2 of them wired in parallel, need two to carry the extra current for the trailer or towed lights and they also are there to protect the coach wiring from back feeds from the tow vehicle. The new coaches come wired with an extra relay / fuse box wired into the hitch lighting circuit to make replacement of a fuse or relay easier.

Thanks for the info. Got to look at one more area of the plumbing system. There often is one located in one of the Bays. Generally close to the fresh water tank. The valve you are looking for could be located in the area pictured on Page 9 of the plumbing drawing. Do you have the owners manual? does it cover, winterizing of the coach? The manual valve(s) used in this process are in the supply side for the fresh water tank, water pump and the supply line to the water heater. Rich.

Action, Thanks for the information! Have to agree with you that there is no check valve pictured. Now, I want to check on what I think you are saying. NO water coming out any of the hot water lines, Correct? The water heater is getting hot. Correct? When you flushed out the hot water tank, did you remover the safety valve; the one outside and near the top of the tank? and also remover the lower drain plug from the tank? Waiting for your reply. Rich.

Go to this link, look for your year; then the model. The proper PDF file should open. http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/Plumbing.htm NOTE - you may have to first down load the file before it will open on the computer screen. Then you can save a copy and look at all the pluming for your model. If you would post the model of your coach, I will then be able to look at the same information if you need further info or help. Rich.

Hi Carl, I took a look and your post / reply to Ray's post about the cat and it did show up. Maybe the elf's where taking a nap when you hit the post button ! I have experienced delays at times and think the system is running some test or back ups late at night or early morning. Hope you had a Marry Christmas and have a Healthy and Happy New Year. Rich.

Correct Brett! just not sure he wants to take the time now to run some tests, so I'm thinking of completely disabling the circuit until he returns from his trip. Rich.

Ernie, Disconnect the ground at the DC Supply terminals, where the battery connections are. I'm thinking that if you disconnect the ground at the pump, there is still the possibility of power going to the Glow plugs. One more question, do you have a auto start system on your coach for the generator? Rich.

erniewjr, Good to see your first post! been a member for awhile! Try this little test. Press the stop side of the generator start switch and hold it down for a few seconds. This puts the generator in the prime mode. You will hear a clicking sound. Does it sound like what you mentioned in you post? Remember, there are 2 start / stop switches. One located outside on the generator, same area as the circuit breakers and the one you use inside the coach. If you a trying to start the generator this is normal. IF not then one needs to look for the switch or something in the pump power circuit that is supplying power to the pump when its not supposed to be there. If you are going away for a few days and the pump is cycling, you might want to disconnect the 12 volt ground wire at the back / bottom connection on the generator and do some testing when you return.!! Rich.