dickandlois

Fred. Thanks for your feedback! Intermittent problems are hard to find and from your information regarding Codes 33 and 36. That kind of puts them to rest. One more item you could check is under the access cover located just above the circuit breaker and start / stop switch. One screw to remove to open it. Under it are 3 fuses. The one to look for is F1=10 amps. F2=10 amps ,but is the starter fuse and F3 is 25 amps and is for the glow plugs. My thinking is maybe the fuse and connection point(s) is loose or corroded and contact is lost, should power to the Control module get interrupted it would shut down. So looking and cleaning the contacts and fuse might be worth the time. Codes can be set when the sensors fail or the connections related to those items become corroded or loose. In your case with multiple codes one would start to think a common problem to both. The other big one is the ground connections, but if its under the covers, checking them is a bear !! Hope these thoughts help and Good luck Rich.

The Xantrex information listed in the second post (#2), Brett attached a link to the owners manual that will display a 404 error. Link moved or no longer available. What I have found is that the original printing of the manual is no longer on Xantrex's list of manuals One can get an owners manual at this link. However! The Troubleshooting section just lists what the LED display patterns mean. http://www.xantrex.com/documents/Inverter-Chargers/Freedom-458/Freedom458%28445-0193-01-01_rev-2%29.pdf The link below is for information on troubleshooting the unit. This short Guide covers items and information no longer listed in the available manual. This information was printed in 1998. Allot has changed in 15 years! http://www.tekrispower.com/pdfs/xantrex/Freedom-Fleet%20Power%20Troubleshooting.pdf I have a feeling that other information included in the Original Printing is missing, but hope this fills in some of the gaps. Note! this information will list 12, 24, and 32 volt units. The 32 volt units are out of production and a 48 volt unit has replaced it. The 48 volt units are more for the residential solar systems. The other item that one runs into with equipment! The parts be come harder to find or are NLA. With that in mind one would be better off replacing an older unit. For those who love a challenge, finding a old manual and the proper skills. It makes for a interesting hobby. Rich.

Big Dog, Looking at the circuit(s) regarding DLR( day time Running lights) one might expect to find if the chassis in question has been prewired for the option. The Junction Block,(location could very on different year chassis) contains the head light relay and would have one dedicated to the Day Light Running lights. They would leave this relay out if the lights are not added as an option in most cases. The wire color running from the stationary connection on the relay to power the lights is Dark Blue in the information I have. The switch side(moving contact) connects to a 10 amp fuse in the junction box. One for the lights and a second 10 amp fuse for the relay coil. The circuits are wired into the BCM(body control module) This is the module that controls the DLR relay, so when the headlights are on it opens the low(ground) side of the DLR relay. This powers down the Daytime running Lights. Also,Turns them on when the Transmission is in gear and off if the parking brake are in gauged. That one is a little strange from my way of thinking, because if you engage the transmission to turn them on and then engage the parking brake, they are turned off so you can not check to see if they are working. Makes it a 2 person job. Hope this helps answer your question to some point. The wiring harness for the DLR's could be tucked away,but where is a question that I can not answer. Rich.

The power of nature ! This Video just showed up on the internet news and I thought it might be an interesting video for others to view. http://news.yahoo.com/blogs/daily-buzz/utah-family-films-car-struck-lightning-162519853.html It's the comment at the end by the reporter regarding the tires that kind of makes a point, the power a lightning bolt can pack. Rich

Tim, There are a number of variables. At times things go bad even with good service. The Key item to extending the life of the coach is maintenance, checking the exterior frequently for any sign of a problem, seals and condition of the roof. good old soap and water. Check the interior often for any sighs of water intrusion around the roof where items are mounted and window seals. Fix things ASAP! Changing the oil, filters and fluids at regular intervals, keep track of fluid levels. Oil, filters, grease and fluids are a good investment considering what they protect. Check the drive train and chassis components on at least a yearly bases. The number of miles one can expect them to run is tied to how the owner drives them and where. Must admit that I have driven them into places and locations that some others might even question driving a 4 wheeler. I was a lot younger, but I still push the envelope at times. You take care of the coach and it will reward you. Rich.

cmarq, Did you have intermittent or noise issues before the current problem? Do you have the Radio option on your system? if so is it working? There could be a corroded or loose connection somewhere under the dome cover, look them over, clean the contacts carefully with a clean pencil eraser. One could check all the system connections, things get shaken well going down the road. Think I would change the set up dip switches that change your provider by switching them off and on. That information should be in the information you got with the dish. The controller board(s) logic outputs command the higher current circuits. Rich.

Wow ! That is like only 30 to 40 gallons of gas Tops!!! I would venture you have an issue(s) that need to be addressed before installing any type of fuel pump... Have you changed ALL the fuel filters, there is one along the frame rail,curb side about mid frame that has threaded connections because of the pressure in the system. The other item that is missed frequently is the fuel return line. There is a section of rubber line right near the point where the steel return line enters the frame, just in front of the right front top A frame member for the suspension. This hose can get crimped or pinched off thus restricting fuel flow adding abnormal restriction and pressure into the system. Look it over closely. Its a preformed hose when a supplied OEM part is used. The other and harder item to check is the fuel tank for an accumulation of rust that can plug up the filter sock inside the tank supply line. Gas tanks that are not stored with a full load of fuel can rust quickly and the rust only has one place to go, the bottom of the tank. Not good for an engine that is always hungry for fuel. One can get a small electric fuel pump and insert it into the supply line(connection made where the filter enters the filter with the proper connection) and see if there is a good flow of fuel through the pump as it flows into an empty gas can. No sparks or ignition source and plenty of fresh air running this test !!!! If it takes longer then the specification on fuel rate for the pump to fill a given sized gas can, then there is a very good possibility of a restricted pickup in the tank. Rich.

Charles, Check the transmission fluid level, It maybe time to have the transmission serviced. The other item that can give you a winning sound is the rear differential, so check it for proper gear oil level and it might be a good idea to have it changed also. My thoughts on where to start. Rich.

fnlatch, Welcome to FMCA! #3 low level fault code, read high level codes. #33 High engine temperature code. Check coolant and load on generator. #36 fuel issue, pick up level of fuel to low. This is a point where the fuel in the tank is not available for the generator, this is so you do not run out of fuel to get to a gas station. #37 Invalid Generator configuration have unit checked at service center. So with that information, is you fuel gauge below 1/4 tank? and or are you running a heavy electrical load in hot weather? If not then code #37 needs to be addressed. Rich.

Big Dog, do not know the exact circuit, but they come on when one puts the transmission in gear and turn off when one turns on the marker lights or headlights. Got a Chev. truck with them and have the shop manuals, so maybe over the next few days I can find out where and how they are wired into things. Rich.

Hi Jim, What engine do you have and how many miles on the new fuel pump? What type of fuel delivery system, fuel injectors or throttle body carburetor? There might be other issue(s) that took out the old one and the new pump. Fuel filters, dirt in fuel tank or a blocked fuel return line. That being the case an inline fuel pump may not solve the problem. Rich.

Russell and Barbara, Welcome to FMCA Group. The starting point for my wife and I has always been making a list of items we would like to have in a coach and prioritize them Second, how do we plan to use the coach and will it fit into the way we like to travel. Third, where do we want to go and will the coach allow us to stay in the campgrounds in the areas we want to visit. Forth, do we want to pull a toad (will we need to and have one more vehicle to maintain) or just rent a car, if we will be staying for a week or should we buy a coach that will be easy to drive just about anywhere. Will we be staying in an area for an extended stay, Then do we need to consider a coach that can tow a car. You will notice that our first consideration is far from an make or model coach. That kind of comes in to the picture as our lists get prioritized.OH and do not forget things like hobby's. Then we can start looking for the amenities, floor plans and the layout of the interior. Everything you can think of is on the table and use your prior travels and experiences to help in the choice. Rich.

mdilts, Welcome to FMCA The issue is the 458 charger is not charging your coach batteries. Questions: Could you post the Make,Model and Year of your Coach ? The coach manufactures wire things a little different. Do you have the Owners Manual and or the installation Manual? Do you have any of the AC outlets that are not working ? Reason for the questions is I'm trying to find some problem and eliminate others in the AC power feed. Rich.

Don, Do you have this repair manual for your system. There is a 50 lb. pressure valve in the system and if its malfunctioning, that could adversely affect the ability of the jacks to raise the coach. http://www.hwh-europe.com/download/ml13514.pdf Page 17 shows the wiring / Plumbing for the straight down jack system. If this the style you have. This is the link to the different parts manuals. http://www.hwhcorp.com/HWH_table_of_contents_3.html Regarding getting parts from HWH, finding a service center or tech. might be the only answer. Rich.

I have friends that have changed out there OEM refrigerators to the home style. Some just run them when on shore power and things stay cold while traveling up to 8 to 10 hrs. They do not open them often and that works for them. Others have pure sine wave inverters and run the refrigerators while on the road. The alternators keep the coach batteries charged so whenever the unit calls for cooling everything works fine. Do you you know what type of inverter you have? I 'm leaning towards to pure sine wave unit. The older inverters where modified sine wave units. You might want to ask you rep. what his reasoning is regarding running the refrigerator. You could list the model information for the group and then we could see what the power requirements are, and with the inverter information and size of your coach battery bank could offer our thoughts. Rich.

Dave, sounds like a plan ! Thanks you the update. The one other trick to use on the black tank is to put some clean water in the tank, like you mentioned and add a bag or two of ice using the pot. when the Toilet sets directly over the black tank it's easy to get it in the tank. Then drive the coach around for awhile, the ice cubes act like little glaciers and scrub the bottom of the tank. Nice thing is they melt, they take the material loosened; out of the tank with the water. I use one of the clear couplings at the dump valve so I can see what is being discharged, Ya! its a little gross; but you can see when you get clear water. Also, can use one of the wands that go into the tank, I like the ones with the spinning heads to do the job when It's time to see how well my factory tank wash system is doing. I'm scratching my head a little regarding the gray tank. The fact that you had the nest in the vent might make the tank drain slower, but its not emptying ? Strange as it sounds, wounder if there is something like a big hair ball in there. Tom mentioned the possibility of some material getting into the tank when it was install. Thinking if that was the case the emptying completely issue would come an go, but one would think the hairball thing would act the same! Rich.

I had a similar issue with a different size. They where not in stock at the location I was in and the other branches where out of the size also. They had an order arriving in 7 to 10 days. Just the way the load of tires was scheduled to arrive. Shipping tires between outlets is common, but shipments from the warehouse are not just to one dealer, but a number of them to off set the cost. The tires could have been shipped, over night, 2 days what ever, but I would have had to pay the extra shipping. The same goes for any item one orders on line or from a store. They can get the items in most cases, but the buyer will need to pay for the shipping. The large tires are not stocked in large numbers, because of the amount of money tied up by the store and the rather limited number of buyers. Rich.

David, By chance do you travel with young children? Did something get put down the toilet? When you raise the front and it drains well, that sounds like that puts the drain point higher then the back of the tank, is my thought correct ? Thing is if that is the case what would be in the gray tank. With the jacks down will the black tank drain better? Could you post the Make, Model and Year of your coach for the group and how long you have owned it. Rich.

Pretired, Take a look at this link. Select the year and model of your coach and download the wiring information. the information should lead you to the area of the switch and give you the wiring circuit(s) covering you 12 volt system. http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/Wiring.htm Look the information over and let us know how you are doing and get some additional help if needed. Rich.

Pretired, Welcome to FMCA ! When you mention everything works works when connected to shore power, does that include the AC Unit(s), refrigerator, and the 12 volt lighting? Should these items not be working the only thing that would prevent that would be the lack of 12 volts from the DC fuse panel. From your post it sounds like you loose the 12 volts as soon as you unplug from shore power. Is the disconnect switch for the 12 volt supply turned on? Some coaches require a switch to operated manually to get 12 volts supplied to the buss when not connected to shore power. Rich.

Thanks Allegiance !! Things keep changing, but the general information about frame length and cut angle is still good. Along with some of the other points. The source of the chassis used by the Coach builders tends to fallow the best bid for the next order. MIHO also, Putting them together over the years was always interesting. Then the interesting day when all the envelopes where opened. Rich.

Generally they are just red LED's which are polarity sensitive, meaning the plus and minus connections need to be correct for them to light. A picture of your set up and light would be helpful. Rich. Edited, 8-7-13 No reply regarding your question, so you need to know that there is a resistor / diode circuit the protects the solar panel from discharging the battery and a picture of the damage would help evaluate the damage and what item(s) or connections where compromised.

Good morning Derge, Welcome to FMCA! Could you list the Make and Model of your EMS system just to make sure I'm on the same page and I will see what I can find! This is what I'm thinking in the meantime: Does your EMS panel problem show up just on Shore Power and or when the Generator is running ? Do you have the owners manual? Control board Connector J6-- Pins #3 and #1 are used to inform the system of the presents of 120 or 240 volts AC. When the generator is running there is 12 volts DC present at Connector J2----Pin #2 on the control board informing the system that power is being supplied from the generator. When working on the system connections, Make Sure you are disconnected from shore power and the generator is nut running. Also its a good idea to turn off the inverter, to eliminate any 120 / 240 volts from the system. The only item that I can not really ID is connector J6, all the other connectors are clearly labeled. Rich.

The fallowing link is to one of the better written articles I have come across, that covers the chassis under a coach. I'm not being pro Vender, just think items covered are viable considerations one can add to there motorthome choice. Some useful information when pondering the what coach issue. http://betterrving.com/rv-chassis-what-lies-beneath/ Rich.

Gramps is this the size of the seal you posted the link to ? Rich